I've been working on getting my rear blower to operate more as advertised. Some history, I completely rebuilt the entire unit and motor, have replaced the pull cable, and the wiring is all new. It wants to operate as it should but first problem was even with a new cable well oiled it is was still difficult to actuate. You needed 2 hands (one on the pull, and one on the housing to prevent pulling too hard and damaging the attaching housing. This in spite of smooth cable and switch operation when hand actuated individually. I was able to fix that part of the problem by removing and diassembling the original swich and reworking the indents to be less pronounced and thereby reducing operating effort required. That worked well, and now the cable will move the switch with one hand.
The second issue is the 3 speeds. With the key on and engine off, You can clearly hear the front blower at all of it's speeds operating. The rear however does not produce similar results even if you take the cable out of the equaiton. If cold, it will will start out OK at the slow speed and then once the resistor warms up after a few seconds it will come to a stop by itself. Fast speed is fine when the resistor is bypassed.
So here are some questions for the experts on both repair and what correct operations should be:
1. The original INDAK resistor does not appear damaged, and I checked it for continuity (good) and then with my OHM meter and it does show resistance to both circuits (though I have not found any specs to compare it to). Is it possible due to age that it has simply built up too much resistance once it heats up to continue working?
I know replacements are available, just trying to understand the mechanics here and if possible save the original.
2. Those who have experience with 64-65 blower operation, what would you say the effort required to actuate the motor via the cable pull is on the best possible operating system (one that has been thoroughly gone through) ?? One handed easy pull, or two hands ect???
I've read all the posts I can find and some tech articles as well, but could never determine any deffinative standard for factory new type operation. What type of effort would a judge accept and assign full points for as an example?
Thanks for your input, Dan
Here are some photo's, of the exploded view of the switch and rebuild I did
The second issue is the 3 speeds. With the key on and engine off, You can clearly hear the front blower at all of it's speeds operating. The rear however does not produce similar results even if you take the cable out of the equaiton. If cold, it will will start out OK at the slow speed and then once the resistor warms up after a few seconds it will come to a stop by itself. Fast speed is fine when the resistor is bypassed.
So here are some questions for the experts on both repair and what correct operations should be:
1. The original INDAK resistor does not appear damaged, and I checked it for continuity (good) and then with my OHM meter and it does show resistance to both circuits (though I have not found any specs to compare it to). Is it possible due to age that it has simply built up too much resistance once it heats up to continue working?
I know replacements are available, just trying to understand the mechanics here and if possible save the original.
2. Those who have experience with 64-65 blower operation, what would you say the effort required to actuate the motor via the cable pull is on the best possible operating system (one that has been thoroughly gone through) ?? One handed easy pull, or two hands ect???
I've read all the posts I can find and some tech articles as well, but could never determine any deffinative standard for factory new type operation. What type of effort would a judge accept and assign full points for as an example?
Thanks for your input, Dan
Here are some photo's, of the exploded view of the switch and rebuild I did
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