1966 frame restoration
I am starting on a frame up restoration for my 1966 L72 coupe. I am trying to determine how to remove the rear end carrier prior to sandblasting the frame. I have removed the bolts securing it to the frame but it does not break free when using a wood block and sledge hammer. I don't want to damage anything and am looking for advice on how to break this free and remove it. Thanks!
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Re: 1966 frame restoration
You can soak it with Varsol and it should loosen up. It may take a few days. -
Re: 1966 frame restoration
Greg, first if you have not done so reinstall the two bolts that go through the "sombrero" bushings and secure the support beam back to the frame. Those two bolts are the only thing holding the cross beam and the differential that is bolted to the support beam from dropping down and.... damaging the differential carrier (housing) or hurting someone if they are under it when it drops. Go to a hardware store and get two bolts that are the same thread size but are about 3 to 4 inches longer than the originals. Install the longer bolts in place of the original short ones. Run them in so the threads are completely through but the bold hex head is a good 1 to 2 inches away from seating. Now you are ready to tackle a difficult and challenging task - breaking the old (possibly original sombrero bushing from the metal support beam. You will need a crow bar, at least 4 feet long. You place the wedged end of the crow bar between the sombrero and beam and then pry it off - it will take a lot of pressure to break it free. If the body is still on the frame DO NOT PULL UP ON THE BAR - if it slips you will do serious damage to your fiberglass wheel well - press down. Shoot some penetrating oil in there if possible - let it sit and pry again. When it finally comes free it will sound like a gun going off - it "pops" free then that side will drop down - but only the inch or so because of the longer bolts you installed. Then do the other side. When both sides are free you will need a floor jack or transmission jack to slide under the differential to slowly lower it down - with the cross member attached to the diff. After it is down you will see 4 bolts on top that are not visible when the beam & diff are in the car. Remove the 4 bolts and just lift the beam off the diff. If you do a search for removing a differential from a C2 you will find a lot of articles and references on the entire procedure - including how to get the sombrero bushings free from the frame - the problem is the rubber bonds to the metal frame with rust. Good luck.EdComment
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Re: 1966 frame restoration
Hi Ed, Thank you so much for your assistance on this! I wanted to let you know that the body is off the car and the frame is on my garage floor. Since the body is off I had already removed the differential and had guessed that the bushings are bonded to the metal as you indicated. I am also guessing that this support beam has never been off the frame but there is very little rust on my frame given that this car has been in CA and CO for most of it's life. I have had it here in my garage in NC for the last 23 going on 24 years. Thanks again!
Any advise on getting the frame ready to paint? I was thinking to get it sandblasted with a fine grit sand?Comment
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Re: 1966 frame restoration
If you have the body off the long pry-bar has a lot more optional pressure points that can be accessed.
With the body installed I used hydraulics. A Duck billed ram worked for me. This was on a 72 Coupe.
The important thing to know is it does come apart and typically requires way more force than one would think to separate the two parts.
The extra long bolts are a safety requirement to keep thing under control when it does pop. After you get one side loose the other is typically much easier.
The replacement "sombrero" bushings are not like the originals. If you replace them get the best one you can find and be ready to press them in if required. I got so frustrated with the replacement installation I bagged it and re-sued the originals.
If you sandblast the frame take your time to get all the sand out. It will collect moisture and will rust from the inside out. Powder coating is so durable it is amazing. I recommend it if its an option. It also makes it easier to get some coating on the inside walls. It will also withstand brake fluid. I had to touch up my painted frame, when bleeding the brakes, where brake fluid dripped onto the frame. If you do paint it used catalyzed paint, it will stand up better than if it isn't.
RickComment
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Re: 1966 frame restoration
I had my frame chemically stripped in a tank. Came out beautiful. Still had all the weld spatter etc. intact. There is a stripper in Fountain Inn SC, CAROLINA CHEM STRIP, that can do the job. One thing about chemical stripping it gets the rust inside the frame that is not accessible with sandblasting, also the metal surface isn't modified by the sandblast. I also sent the "A" arms to be dipped. The stencil part number was even intact on the frame rail after strippingComment
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Re: 1966 frame restoration
Greg - I had it media blasted and then powder coated by the same place. Came out nice. Are you planning to use just chassis black paint ?
I researched the TDB and found several posts recommending powder coating for cars that will be driven.
MarkComment
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Re: 1966 frame restoration
Hi Mark,
I am not sure which way to go on painting the frame black or going the powder coat route. My concern is since I plan to go fully original I am not sure if it would affect judging the car if were powder coated versus painted. If you have any input on this I would appreciate it. Thanks!Comment
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Re: 1966 frame restoration
Greg;
The original paint wasn't even what I would call paint. It was asphalt based and basically the cheapest stuff that would cover the frame and avoid rusting for a short time. Some times the frames would require re-spaying, when the frame was pulled from outside storage, before the assembly was begun because the coating had already degraded. We used to get black iron pipe covered with this stuff. We would blow it off with a torch in seconds before marking the pipe for fab work.
That said the original paint is still available if you wanted to go that route. If you decide not to use the asphalt based paint everything else might be the same deduction. Would have to ask a judge to confirm this. Personally I would not recommend the asphalt based paint for anything but a atmospheric controlled show car. Would love to hear from the judges on this.
RickComment
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