1966 rear wheel hub disassembly help

[Steven L.]

Hi All,

On my '66, I'm trying to get the rear hubs separated from the bearing/control arm assemblies, but so far have not been able to get them apart. I'm using the J-8433 puller that's specified in the Chassis Overhaul Manual, but when I start tightening the bolt on the puller, the stubs don't pop out. What's happening is that the edge of the control arm on the unreinforced side, where the puller hooks underneath the lip, is starting to bend outward. Perhaps someone has dealt with this issue and can give me some advice as far as what else I can do to get the axle to pop out of the bearing. Pictures are attached.

Thanks,
Steve Leunig

[John L.]

[Patrick H.]

Re: 1966 rear wheel hub disassembly help

Call me a cheater, but...

I send them to Bair's or VanSteel and cut my losses. Trailing arms and rear differentials I just don't mess with for reasons like this.
When they do hundreds or thousands, I'll pay for their expertise and time.

Just my $0.02

[Richard G.]

Re: 1966 rear wheel hub disassembly help

It is possible you have damaged the threaded end of the axle. I believe there is a adapter that screws onto the axle with a female thread on one side and a dimpled center on the other. Ill get a picture of one I have and post it. Remove the puller and be sure the nut can be reinstalled before moving on.
I have had to resort to using a press to get some of the axles apart. Sometimes the interference fit is just a .0005 to tight and then they take a set after years. Makes them almost impossible to disassemble. I typically use a lathe to return the axle to specification. (No I absolutely never remove the interference fit). Since I don't know what options you have available to you I can't make any other recommendations.
I understand, I have the tools and want to use them. Sometimes it takes more options to get them apart, without damage to the parts.

There is another tool that reaches past the steel trailing arm and connects to the forged steel brake caliper parts. More force can be used with this tool without damaging the thin stamped steel parts.
Rick

[Don H.]

Re: 1966 rear wheel hub disassembly help

It is possible that you might have to cut the bearing with a torch. I had one that we had in a press and would not come apart, we had to cut the bearing. Good luck, Don H.

[Joe L.]

Re: 1966 rear wheel hub disassembly help

Hi All,

On my '66, I'm trying to get the rear hubs separated from the bearing/control arm assemblies, but so far have not been able to get them apart. I'm using the J-8433 puller that's specified in the Chassis Overhaul Manual, but when I start tightening the bolt on the puller, the stubs don't pop out. What's happening is that the edge of the control arm on the unreinforced side, where the puller hooks underneath the lip, is starting to bend outward. Perhaps someone has dealt with this issue and can give me some advice as far as what else I can do to get the axle to pop out of the bearing. Pictures are attached.

Thanks,
Steve Leunig

Steve------


I don't recognize the tool you are using, at all. It's definitely not the GM/Kent-Moore tool that I have. My tool fastens to the caliper bracket and bearing support fork. Trying to remove one of these spindles, particularly a long-installed spindle, with a tool that pulls against the trailing arm is, to me, insane. I cannot imagine that it could ever be done before distorting and running the trailing arm.

Even with the proper tool, it can be very difficult.

[Joe R.]

Re: 1966 rear wheel hub disassembly help

Steve,

You have the proper tool as described in the Corvette Shop Manual 1964 on page 4-2 and described on page 4-5 as J-8433 Drive Spindle Remover. And it may have worked back when the metal was new and the bearings haven't seized to the spindle but won't work in most cases. Even using the new tool that bolts to the caliper bracket there is trouble sometimes. I have seen many caliper brackets bent from trying to remove a seized spindle.
You may be to the point that Patrick describes above using a professional to do the dirty work. It takes many tools to remove and set up the rear spindles correctly. It's just not economical to buy all the tools just to set up a pair of spindles.

JR

[Joe L.]

Re: 1966 rear wheel hub disassembly help

Steve,

You have the proper tool as described in the Corvette Shop Manual 1964 on page 4-2 and described on page 4-5 as J-8433 Drive Spindle Remover. And it may have worked back when the metal was new and the bearings haven't seized to the spindle but won't work in most cases. Even using the new tool that bolts to the caliper bracket there is trouble sometimes. I have seen many caliper brackets bent from trying to remove a seized spindle.
You may be to the point that Patrick describes above using a professional to do the dirty work. It takes many tools to remove and set up the rear spindles correctly. It's just not economical to buy all the tools just to set up a pair of spindles.

JR

JR-------


Yes, I forgot; this is the 63-64 tool for use with pre-caliper trailing arms. I would never, ever attempt to use this tool. The results would almost inevitably be just exactly what is shown above or worse.

I also agree that even the later tool for caliper-type trailing arms can be very problematic for long-installed spindles. As you mention, caliper brackets can easily be bent, especially if the tool is not installed perfectly perpendicular to the spindle shaft.

Gary Ramadei has reported great success using a "spindle knocker" and a large sledge hammer. Another way to do it is to jig the assembly up properly in an hydraulic press. This is a little tricky since it must be set up so that no force bears on the trailing arm. However, done properly the spindle will always pop out, usually with a large "bang".

[Curt S.]

Re: 1966 rear wheel hub disassembly help

I have also used the spindle knocker with very good success. It is a socket that screws onto the spindle and has a collar that rests on the spindle. Even with bad bearings , I have yet to hurt a spindle. No heat just put control arm in a vice and hit the socket. Generally , I only use a smaller sledge. I bought it a long time ago from International Tool Co. I believe it was in Minnesota. Hope this helps.

[Jim D.]

Re: 1966 rear wheel hub disassembly help

I too have had success using a spindle knocker and a few good whacks with a 3 lb. hammer. Removing the spindle is the hardest part of rebuilding a trailing arm.

[Gary R.]

Re: 1966 rear wheel hub disassembly help

It might be too late,as I just saw this thread, but that puller is bending the arms and they will give out before you break the interference fit. As mentioned I have not used a press in over 15 years for any of the 100's of arms I build. If the threads on the spindle are still good, use a good knocker tool, ( $15 from any vendor), hold the arm at a 45* angle and use a 3 or 5 ln mini sledge and give it some good hard hits. It should drive out the axle, and you will want to see if the outer bearing is still on the axle or off. If it's off chances are good the axle is all done and the bearing spun on it.

When you get the arm apart, put a 2' level on the pad and measure the distance from the level line to the arm by the front bushing. It should be around 1.920 +/- .100" there is a pretty wide range on this dimension but within that window should allow for shim spacing during alignment.
If the diminsion is out say .250" then you might be able to bend it back but look very close at the arms. If you see rust separation at the back seams or feel bulging between the pad and inside the arm they are junk. If you need new arms I use Brian Bairs arms and never had an issue.

I am doing a set of 79 arms now and once I blasted them clean they look like new, no rust or pitting anywhere, one arm is slightly out of the dimension I listed but I don't see any sign of impact from being bent and I bet that is how this arm was since new and the car was aligned for 40 years.

If you have any questions I can help you with let me know and I'll go over it with you. You can also go to Digital corvettes and look up my arm or diff threads there, they have a lot of pictures.

Jim, the most time consuming part for me with arms is all the prep and paint work. I spend more time blasting, etching, POR15 and top coating the parts then fit them all together before I machine fit the bearings. It is not a hard job once you get the process down, have an area to work on , and have the tools. The first time is a learning experience for sure. If any of you are in the CT area I will be holding seminars showing how to do this work. I did it for the local NCRS chapter last Fall and enjoy teaching this stuff. It is a very informal saturday get together to talk and work on vettes.