Third Arm Bearing Removal

[Rick C.]

I am having no luck removing the bearing from the third arm. I made and am using the device described by Rich Mozzetta in the archives. I used Freeze-off as recommended in an old thread with no movement so I switched to my favorite penetrating fluid, Kroil. It's been soaking in it for close to three weeks. I've tried to pull it out when heating the arm (map gas) and without heat. I've tapped on the side of the arm as hard as I dare and have put all of my weight (not that I have a lot of it) on the end of an 18" long wrench and it hasn't budged.
I'm thinking that cutting the bearing out with a small cutting wheel would be close to impossible? Can I use a lot of heat and get the arm glowing without damaging the arm? Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated!
Thanks,
Rick

[Dennis C.]

Re: Third Arm Bearing Removal

I am having no luck removing the bearing from the third arm. I made and am using the device described by Rich Mozzetta in the archives. I used Freeze-off as recommended in an old thread with no movement so I switched to my favorite penetrating fluid, Kroil. It's been soaking in it for close to three weeks. I've tried to pull it out when heating the arm (map gas) and without heat. I've tapped on the side of the arm as hard as I dare and have put all of my weight (not that I have a lot of it) on the end of an 18" long wrench and it hasn't budged.
I'm thinking that cutting the bearing out with a small cutting wheel would be close to impossible? Can I use a lot of heat and get the arm glowing without damaging the arm? Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated!
Thanks,
Rick

See if this article helps any. The bearing can be difficult to remove, but they do come out.

http://www.rarecorvettes.com/SteeringLinkage.html

Dennis

[Rick C.]

Re: Third Arm Bearing Removal

Hi Dennis,

Thanks for the reply. The tool shown in that article is similar to the one I've copied from Rich. The only difference is that I've used an eight sided electrical box instead of the nicely made cylinder as a base. I've put enough pressure on it that I had to use C-clamps on the sides of the box to keep the sides from spreading over the lip of the arm.

Rick

[Richard G.]

Re: Third Arm Bearing Removal

I would heat it with the puller installed and with pressure on it.
If you can get a Oxy Act torch and a rosebud you may have better luck.
The trick it to get the outside diameter hot as quick as possible.
Rick

[Dennis C.]

Re: Third Arm Bearing Removal

Hi Dennis,

Thanks for the reply. The tool shown in that article is similar to the one I've copied from Rich. The only difference is that I've used an eight sided electrical box instead of the nicely made cylinder as a base. I've put enough pressure on it that I had to use C-clamps on the sides of the box to keep the sides from spreading over the lip of the arm.

Rick

That's telling me the box is not strong enough. You need to remake your tool and try again. It takes a lot to break that bearing free. If you still can't get it loose, then heat the housing until it is cherry red. It's not how quickly you can heat it, it's how evenly cherry red you can make the housing. Once it is hot enough then try the heavier tool.

Dennis

[Richard G.]

Re: Third Arm Bearing Removal

I disagree in your analogy, how quickly you can heat it does matter.
It's the delta difference (in temperature) between the two parts that loosens the bearing from the interference fit.
Heating the parts slowly allows both the parts to grow at the same rate and would not change the interference fit at all.
Rick

[John F.]

Re: Third Arm Bearing Removal

Time for Tom Parsons to let us know the right way!

[Rod K.]

Re: Third Arm Bearing Removal

I think I would avoid heat for fear of distorting the bearing hole since you'll be unable to heat the entire piece evenly. I used a version of the puller in the "rare" article which worked well. As pointed out, you probably just need heavier puller parts to handle the forces necessary.

[Rick C.]

Re: Third Arm Bearing Removal

Thanks for the input. The strength of the box/tool is not an issue. I can maintain its shape with the c-clamps. I tried again this morning adding a 2 foot pipe to my 18" wrench on the 3/4" nut which is turned to draw out the bearing and stud. The only result was ruining the threads on the nut and bolt. I know they are hard to get out, but this seems to be way more force than should be necessary. I guess lots of heat is my only option.

Rick

[Mark B.]

Re: Third Arm Bearing Removal

Hi Guys
It's my first post here, I bought a previous members (#1483) cars last December.
I was lucky, my bearing came right out. I had a problem a few years ago with a good barrel that didn't want to unthread from a receiver stub. Most people had the same problem and tried all the usual soak and heating cycles but ended up badly marring the barrel. I told an old blacksmith about the circumstances and he gave me the solution. Heat the outer item with a big enough torch so it heats quickly to a dull red. Dip the item in a ROOM temperature bucket of water for a few seconds and remove. The barrel threaded out like it was made yesterday, not 60 years ago. Other people that used this way had good results. I wouldn't worry about the hole going out of round, there is a pretty thick wall there. Remember, you're not making it glow.

[Richard M.]

Re: Third Arm Bearing Removal

Rick, lock ring is out, right?

Rich

[Jim D.]

Re: Third Arm Bearing Removal

Rick, lock ring is out, right?

Rich

My thought exactly.

[Rick C.]

Re: Third Arm Bearing Removal

Rick, lock ring is out, right?

Rich

Sounds like something I might do, but not this time. Yes, the lock ring is out. Thanks for checking!

[E B.]

Re: Third Arm Bearing Removal

Draw down tight again on nut, take a BMFH and hit the outside of the housing. This should shock the bearing to move a little...repeat

[Mark B.]

Re: Third Arm Bearing Removal

The way things are I should have stated that the arm needs to be magnafluxed after heating the area.
You need to break the bond between the 2 items or something else will break. When you put a lot of pressure on the inner race you are forcing the 2 rows of balls out in to their grooves. What is that going to do? A: pull the outer race inward B: force the outer race against the bore
You reach a point where you've made a Chinese finger trap, making a stronger one won't help.