1962 tack strip replacement

[Kenneth F.]

I am replacing the vinyl on my 1962 convertible top frame. The windshield header tack strip has a T nut that spins. If I install a new dovetailed tack strip, can it be slid from the side? Can I use adhesive?

The #4 bow tack strip has many holes and a 4" piece fell off of the end when I removed the old vinyl top. I believe I can install a new tack strip by tapping it into the bow with a wood punch after putting an adhesive into the bow.

Should I buy the new tack strips with original type pressboard material?

Comments and suggestions are appreciated.

Thank you,

Ken

[Richard M.]

Re: 1962 tack strip replacement

Ken,

I use the press-board type. For the header, you cannot slide it in from the ends. The profile of the opening is trapezoidal. The tack strip has to be planed, shaped, and sanded to fit. Trial and error. Then it has to be forced into the header horizontally using a hardwood block and a hammer. It is not a easy task.

If the T nuts are trouble you may want to try cleaning the threads with a tap while holding the base steady with a tool. Then some contact cement at the base to keep it from spinning yet allow some movement when you attach the header weatherstrip.

The #4 bow is easy. Strip and sand it clean then glue(contact cement) the new strip in place using the block and hammer method.

Rich

[Kenneth F.]

Re: 1962 tack strip replacement

Rich, The one T-nut that spins is near the middle of the assembly, 2" away from the next T-nut. This tack strip in the windshield header looks solid. I do not see any holes from tacks or staples. Is the pressboard what keeps the T-nut from spinning? I could run a tap in each T-nut and lubricate the threads. I wonder if putting non-drying caulk around the base of the spinning T-nut might be good tohelp keep it from spinning?

Leaving the old windshield header tack strip alone seems to be a good idea.

I again, appreciate your help.

Ken

[Richard M.]

Re: 1962 tack strip replacement

Ken,

The tack strip was supposed to keep them from spinning. Horrible design IMO. If the threads are clean then once the machine screw starts to tighten then the T-nut will lock in on the backside of the tack strip. They have to move a little bit horizontally to align with the weatherstrip retainer and weatherstrip itself. The screws don't need to be very tight, just snug. They can gall easily. I actually put a drop of machine oil in each T-nut thread barrel to prevent that.

Strange there are no staple holes. It's possible that the original vinyl at the header was held in place only with the weatherstrip retainer screws. I do that as a test fit of the top before the final stapling.

Yes that idea with the non-hardening glue is what I was trying to say. It'll hold it in place and yet allow a little movement. If the T-nuts are clean then it will help keep from spinning.

Rich

A few photos for reference...

[Kenneth F.]

Re: 1962 tack strip replacement

Rich, I do not see any holes in the header tack strip.

Also, I had attached the strap plates on the deck lid bow to the rear of the bow when I did the top years ago. This did not look good. I noticed after I recently removed the old vinyl, that the screw holes for one of the plates had not been threaded all the way through to the cabin side of the bow.

The wire-on tip screw holes in bow #4 are drilled and tapped 1" above the welded piece on the passenger side and 1 1/2" on the driver side. I do not remember exactly why I had to re- drill and tap the passenger side years ago, but the driver side accepted the machine screw.

The previous owner of my '62 said this was a hardtop only car. The convertible top was from a '61 he bought from a salvage yard.

Thank you for your help,

Ken

[Richard M.]

Re: 1962 tack strip replacement

Ken, The rear plates for the window side straps mount to the "inner" side of the rear bow.

[Kenneth F.]

Re: 1962 tack strip replacement

Rich, The photos could not be better.
Thank you,
Ken