69 Key Buzzer Issue

[Greg L.]

I've been troubeshooting my key buzzer and my conclusion is that it's a worn lock cylinder however a search of the archives doesn't generally mention the cylinder as being a culprit for my snag so I'd like to hear some opinions.

Door open, when I insert the key all the way and hold it in, the buzzer is heard but when I let it go the key moves outward about 1/32" to 1/16" and the buzzer goes off. I figured it was just dirty contacts so I removed the buzzer switch and lock cylinder and sleeve assy and cleaned them with contact cleaner. They felt and looked good so I reinstalled them but still had the same issue. I removed the buzzer switch again and then noticed that the ignition key would stay in all the way without having to keep pressure on it.

So since the turn signal switch had been removed for another issue I decided to remove the upper column housing that contains the buzzer switch, lock cylinder assy and turn signal switch so that I could see how the buzzer switch and lock cylinder assy were interacting with each other. Near as I can tell, the buzzer switch is actually pushing back on the white tab of the lock cylinder assy enough that it is pushing the key back out of the slot enough to break the contacts and turn the buzzer off. This is how I came to the conclusion that my lock cylinder assy is too worn/weak to keep the ignition key properly positioned in place to actuate the buzzer switch. Does this make sense?

Thanks

[Edward J.]

Re: 69 Key Buzzer Issue

Greg could the key its self be worn?( try a original style GM key) most of the time I see the that plastic tang on switch is broken,

[Gary B.]

Re: 69 Key Buzzer Issue

GM Keys are just a little bit longer than aftermarket keys from the square edge to the tip. You can put put a small dab of JB-Weld on the tip of the key and file and shape it so the tip is longer. But, a genuine GM always fixes it for me.
Gary B

[Greg L.]

Re: 69 Key Buzzer Issue

That's a good idea, thanks guys. The key I have looks okay and says GM but I'll try a new one that I had cut a while back and see if it works any better.

Can the white plastic tab wear down? I'm just wondering if it could be a combination of problems because like I mentioned, my key looks pretty good...

[Edward J.]

Re: 69 Key Buzzer Issue

Greg, I believe Corvette Central sells the key buzzer switch for tilt and non tilt cars, I would try a new switch and see how that works, if another key route does not work.

[Greg L.]

Re: 69 Key Buzzer Issue

Well the new keys that I have from Pete Lindahl didn't fix my issue. I guess I could try a repop buzzer switch but unless it is noticeably weaker than my original one, I don't think that will be the answer either so I'm leaning back towards the tumbler/sleeve assy.

What is the best way to remove the tumbler from the sleeve? I tried the service manual procedure and don't see the tab they are referring to to insert the paper clip in the sleeve. I do see two brass pins, one in the area that service manual mentions and the other about 180 opposite. I can depress these with the "paper clip" tools but the tumbler still won't come out of the sleeve.

Any tips or trick on this?

[Greg L.]

Re: 69 Key Buzzer Issue

So I now have a properly functioning key buzzer. I also managed to remove the tumbler from it's sleeve and if anyone else has this problem all I can say is to just follow the service manual BUT make sure the 1/8" bend in the paper clip is no longer than that! I fought with trying to take it apart and then clipped a bit off the end of the paper clip to make it maybe a tad shorter than 1/8" and it worked and came apart just fine!

Now for the buzzer, I couldn't see anything that was obviously worn, even comparing it to an NOS tumbler that I bought. So instead of adding some JB weld to the tip of the key I tried something different. For those that may not know, there is a 1/8" dia. brass rod that the tip of the key pushes against inside the tumbler. This brass rod then pushes against a plastic "tab" that changes the direction of motion 90 degrees and in turn pushes down on a white tab that actuates the key buzzer. All I did was grab one of my brazing rods(which are 1/8" dia.) and make another brass rod that was .030" longer than the original one and now it works perfectly.

I know it's not a text book fix but it works as it should now!

[Mark E.]

Re: 69 Key Buzzer Issue

Greg,

Thank you for sharing what you did so the rest of us can learn. I'm impressed with your troubleshooting and ingenuity. In this case, the forum didn't help you much but your posts may help others.

[Greg L.]

Re: 69 Key Buzzer Issue

Hi Mark,
Well it had me scratching my head for a bit tryng to figure out what needed to be done so I hope it will someone else in the future.
Cheers