getting to block drains

[William F.]

On a C2 small block, what part of the ignition shielding "V" shaped part needs to be removed to get to block drains? How many bolts, etc.? Trouble?

[Ed S.]

Re: getting to block drains

Just did that on my '64. On the passenger side you may have to remove the starter solenoid heat shield and bracket. On the driver side you will have to remove the large "V" shaped shield that covers the spark plug wires - two fasteners. Regarding the removal of the plugs. Get a 6 point socket - don't use a 12 point if they have been in there a long time they will likely be very tight - you might strip the bold with a 12 point. Be prepared to use a breaker bar with the socket. Also, recommend getting replacement plugs - and use anti seize compound on the threads. Good luck. One more thing - when you remove the plugs you may find that nothing comes out. That is because the hole is plugged with sludge and rust. Just take a narrow blade screw driver and push it into the hole - the sludge is thick but not so hard or thick that it can't be easily removed.

[William F.]

Re: getting to block drains

Thanks Ed,
Don't I have to remove the wire shielding on passenger side also, or not?

[Ed S.]

Re: getting to block drains

I believe you will have to remove it - the most difficult part will be removing the stater solenoid heat shield. Suggestion - first remove the large triangular dust/ splash shield from the passenger side - 4 bolts - easy to remove. It will give yo a lot more working room. Also - the heat shield -You do not have to remove the small self threading bolt that secures the two pieces to each other. Just loosen it enough so the two pieces are still connected but are "sloppy" - where you can move each piece independently - you can remove the assembly when both pieces are together. The importance of that is when you try to reinstall the assembly - putting that small screw in when the two pieces are in position is very difficult. It is easier if you reinstall the two pieces when they are loosely held together. You can work the two pieces around and get them into the correct position and then secure the fasteners.

[Ed S.]

Re: getting to block drains

One more thing - you realize that you are working from the bottom, under the car looking up. I cannot imagine removing and reinstalling the ignition shielding from the top side - oh Lordy, that would be a major PITA.

[Duke W.]

Re: getting to block drains

If you remove the bolts that hold the V-shields you should be able to move them enough to gain access to the drain plug. They don't have to be removed, just pushed out of the way.

Duke

[Frank D.]

Re: getting to block drains

I would soak those plugs several times over a matter of days with penetrating fluid before wrenching on them....
PB-Blaster or a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF.....

[Duke W.]

Re: getting to block drains

PB Blaster or similar will no likely help loosen those plugs, especially since they are oriented 45 deg. down. Also, acetone is a very strong organic solvent that will attack the plug wire insulation.The best way to remove those plugs is to use extensions and adapters to put a 6-pt socket on them with a half-inch breaker bar. Put some torque on the bar and if they don't break loose, reapply the torque and have a helper whack the end of the bar with wood block and hammer to shock them loose.ALWAYS use pipe dope on the threads and tighten them just "snug", say no more than 10 lb-ft. It's also a good idea to replace the steel plugs with hex brass plugs as dissimilar metals are less likely to seize.Duke

[Dick W.]

Re: getting to block drains

PB Blaster or similar will no likely help loosen those plugs, especially since they are oriented 45 deg. down. Also, acetone is a very strong organic solvent that will attack the plug wire insulation.The best way to remove those plugs is to use extensions and adapters to put a 6-pt socket on them with a half-inch breaker bar. Put some torque on the bar and if they don't break loose, reapply the torque and have a helper whack the end of the bar with wood block and hammer to shock them loose.ALWAYS use pipe dope on the threads and tighten them just "snug", say no more than 10 lb-ft. It's also a good idea to replace the steel plugs with hex brass plugs as dissimilar metals are less likely to seize.Duke

Loctite PST is a very good sealer/thread lubricant. I seals very bad threads and lubes enough so that you can get them out the next time.

[Domenic T.]

Re: getting to block drains

Duke,
I replaced all mine with SS plugs instead of brass which is a bit softer but a good idea.

Ed, so right on the 6 point socket.
I'm going to date myself, but a looooong time age we used radiator drain plugs because we didn't have anti freeze. It was common to drain at the end of the day and fill each morning. so much for high school days.

Dom

[Ed S.]

Re: getting to block drains

Domenic - re your (and my) age - you said "we didn't have anti freeze". Automotive anti freeze has been around for a very long time, I am guessing that what I think you meant to say was that you couldn't afford anti freeze back in your high school days. Had to make decisions, beer or anti freeze - I know what my choice would have been!

[Domenic T.]

Re: getting to block drains

Domenic - re your (and my) age - you said "we didn't have anti freeze". Automotive anti freeze has been around for a very long time, I am guessing that what I think you meant to say was that you couldn't afford anti freeze back in your high school days. Had to make decisions, beer or anti freeze - I know what my choice would have been!

Yes,
You got it. Almost made 2 bucks a day part time. Got the beer doing tune ups for 11.00 which included plugs, points & condenser!

Dom