Having not been run since 1974, Labor day was the day to finally let my 57 come to life again. This car is a driver - it lost it virginity in 1962 by the second owner, and was hit hard in the left rear sometime after that. The repair looks good from the surface, but there is evidence on the floor pan that will always be visible. It is a 327 +.03 with a 375 fuel unit. The engine was rebuilt 8 years ago but never run. Likewise the fuel injection was also rebuilt/restored in that time frame and never run.
I had it all primed and set to go. Oil pressure was run up, timing set statically with an ohmmeter for 8* advance, and Ethanol free fuel was pumped to the fuel meter by Mityvac. I turned the engine over several times without spark plugs to fill the fuel meter and spider with gas. The radiator (original copper re-cored) was filled with antifreeze. Last week I built a nice remote starter box, with ignition kill switch and LED as well, so I could control the engine from under the hood. My son and a neighbor were on hand for the big event.
That engine did not roll even a half a revolution and it was running. In other words it started instantly. And running really good. No hesitation, all 8 cylinders, and it sounded very healthy. The plan was for a steady 20 minute burn at 2500 RPM to break in the cam and lifters. It was 90* in Rochester Monday, and 90* in my garage, but it did not overheat. It got hot, 200* at the thermostat housing, but it seemed to stabilize there. 180* thermostat that I drilled a small hole in to purge out any air. I tickled the throttle a couple of times and the engine responded really well. After about 17 minutes into the burn, I was just thinking about shutting it down. At this was the good part.
Then all hell broke loose. The cockpit suddenly and without warning erupted with scalding hot water, steam and antifreeze. Not good. That was the bad part. It blew the heater hose off the right angle fitting that goes to the heater core. More about that next. The passenger side floor pan was a lake. Vacuuming up the standing water after it had cooled down was easy using the shop vac. The problem of course is how to get the antifreeze out. This was, and still is, the ugly part. Most of the remaining water has since evaporated, but the antifreeze of course remains; antifreeze does not evaporate. The interior is all brand new. Seat covers, door panels, and carpet with insulation. The only way I know to get antifreeze out is by flushing it with water. The carpet is the main problem because it is glued down. So I was just wondering if anyone on the forum has encountered this situation before and has any ideas about how to remove antifreeze.
I have driven C1 Corvettes for many year back in the day and never had this happen before. But looking at how it is designed I see the problem. The right angle fitting is nothing more than a hardware store variety 1/2" copper sweep ell. It does not have any serrations or a bell end to lock onto the hose with. And original style Corbin clamps do not have as much clamping force as a worm style clamp does. So in looking for a better fitting, I saw nothing in Lowe's or HD. But we have a privately owned hardware store nearby that carries just about every kind of fitting known to mankind. The attached photo shows the original copper fitting and the cast bronze one I found at this hardware store. I think this is much better solution and is really not noticeable. If anyone is doing any heater or related work on these cars I would highly recommend using this style fitting. If you cant find one of these I can get one for you at this store as they have several in stock. Keep in mind this is for 5/8 hose. I did not see one for 3/4.



-Dan D-
I had it all primed and set to go. Oil pressure was run up, timing set statically with an ohmmeter for 8* advance, and Ethanol free fuel was pumped to the fuel meter by Mityvac. I turned the engine over several times without spark plugs to fill the fuel meter and spider with gas. The radiator (original copper re-cored) was filled with antifreeze. Last week I built a nice remote starter box, with ignition kill switch and LED as well, so I could control the engine from under the hood. My son and a neighbor were on hand for the big event.
That engine did not roll even a half a revolution and it was running. In other words it started instantly. And running really good. No hesitation, all 8 cylinders, and it sounded very healthy. The plan was for a steady 20 minute burn at 2500 RPM to break in the cam and lifters. It was 90* in Rochester Monday, and 90* in my garage, but it did not overheat. It got hot, 200* at the thermostat housing, but it seemed to stabilize there. 180* thermostat that I drilled a small hole in to purge out any air. I tickled the throttle a couple of times and the engine responded really well. After about 17 minutes into the burn, I was just thinking about shutting it down. At this was the good part.
Then all hell broke loose. The cockpit suddenly and without warning erupted with scalding hot water, steam and antifreeze. Not good. That was the bad part. It blew the heater hose off the right angle fitting that goes to the heater core. More about that next. The passenger side floor pan was a lake. Vacuuming up the standing water after it had cooled down was easy using the shop vac. The problem of course is how to get the antifreeze out. This was, and still is, the ugly part. Most of the remaining water has since evaporated, but the antifreeze of course remains; antifreeze does not evaporate. The interior is all brand new. Seat covers, door panels, and carpet with insulation. The only way I know to get antifreeze out is by flushing it with water. The carpet is the main problem because it is glued down. So I was just wondering if anyone on the forum has encountered this situation before and has any ideas about how to remove antifreeze.
I have driven C1 Corvettes for many year back in the day and never had this happen before. But looking at how it is designed I see the problem. The right angle fitting is nothing more than a hardware store variety 1/2" copper sweep ell. It does not have any serrations or a bell end to lock onto the hose with. And original style Corbin clamps do not have as much clamping force as a worm style clamp does. So in looking for a better fitting, I saw nothing in Lowe's or HD. But we have a privately owned hardware store nearby that carries just about every kind of fitting known to mankind. The attached photo shows the original copper fitting and the cast bronze one I found at this hardware store. I think this is much better solution and is really not noticeable. If anyone is doing any heater or related work on these cars I would highly recommend using this style fitting. If you cant find one of these I can get one for you at this store as they have several in stock. Keep in mind this is for 5/8 hose. I did not see one for 3/4.
-Dan D-
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