63 amp gauge

[Raymond R.]

Re: 63 amp gauge

I decided to do some projects I had been putting off. The clock was not working, so I removed it. I wanted to install an updated radio. I also decided to address the issue with the battery gauge. It registered slightly to the right, as if it were charging when the key was off. I removed the clock, installed the radio and then tried to remove the battery gauge. I could not pull the cluster out far enough to remove the gauge. I pushed the cluster back in place and secured it. When I started the car, the battery gauge pointed to 6 (straight down) instead of 12 (straight up). This has happened to me twice in the past. One time I shorted a wire at the horn relay. The other time I shorted a wire at the switch that activates the headlights up and down. Both times my wrench grounded a wire. I heard the zap. In those instances the gauge eventually returned to functioning normally. The last time this happened was 2013.

I uninstalled the radio, as I thought this might be the problem. The gauge continued to point to 6 when you started the car. The next time you start it, the gauge points to 12. It continues to alternate between 6 and 12, with each start. As the radio was removed, I figured the problem had to be something else.

Today I check the volts, on starting the car. The volts read between 17.33 and 16.99. In addition to alternating between 6 and 12, the battery gauge went to +40 upon the initial start. It then fluctuated and seemed to settle around +20. When I tested the volts last week, I let the car run longer. I seem to recall it eventually came down to a little over 15 volts.

I am using a restoration battery. The directions indicate the the charging system should not register over 15.0 volts or damage to the battery may occur.

My thought is the voltage regulator needs to be replaced. If I install a new one from Long Island Corvette, do I have to adjust the voltage regulator in any way? If so, I do not know how to make those adjustments.

Could the high voltage be causing the problems with the battery gauge? I do not know if that could be causing the gauge to alternate between the 6 and 12 position on starts. If I can get the gauge back to normal, even if it falsely shows a slight charge when the engine is off, I would be mote than happy to leave it alone.

Any guidance would be appreciated. Thanks for your help. T

[Richard G.]

Re: 63 amp gauge

The high voltage could be related. This needs to be fixed don't run the car till the voltage regulator is replaced.
Typically the regulators are factory adjusted and require no input from the consumer.

However first things first.
After the voltage regulator is replaced and reads very close to 13.8V.
See if the new regulator fixes the issue. If not provided the information needed below;

Measure the voltage between the two legs of the amp gauge.
Once with the key one and nothing else on.
Do it again with the low beam headlight on.
Then again with the the high beams on.
Voltage should be below 2 volts but let us know what your readings are.

[Raymond R.]

Re: 63 amp gauge

Thanks Richard. I will order the voltage regulator and let you know the results. I will keep my fingers crossed that it solves the problem.

[Guest]

Re: 63 amp gauge

try adjusting the voltage regulator and see what happens, there a small adjustment screw under the cover to raise and lower the voltage output using a voltmeter it worth a try before replace it.

[Raymond R.]

Re: 63 amp gauge

I purchased and installed a new voltage regulator and capacitor. It did not fix the problem. Upon starting the car, the volts read between 17.33 and 16.99. The instructions for the voltage regulator provided some "Service Tips." One reads as follows: "In case of overcharging, check for missing or improper ground straps. Without proper ground, the regulator will sense only part of the alternator voltage, which cause the alternator to overcharge to compensate for lost voltage. These problems are often intermittent, since accelerator linkages and speedometer cables can provide partial yet unreliable engine-to-chassis ground paths." My thought is the issue continues to be a ground problem.

I purchased a digital multimeter. I set it to 20 DC volts. I must be doing something wrong, as I could not read any voltage at the battery gauge. There is a black wire and a red wire that plug into the two legs behind the gauge. I turned the key on (did not start the car, just turned the key to the on position). I touched the red wire from the multimeter to the leg that was connected to the red wire attached to the gauge. I touched the black wire from the multimeter to the leg that was connected to the black wire attached to the gauge. The multimeter continued to read 00.00. What am I doing wrong?

This issue did not exist until I started working on the car. My thought is I did something to create the problem. It sure is frustrating!

[Richard G.]

Re: 63 amp gauge

You still have a charging issue. If you are unable to solve this issue I recommend getting some professional help in dealing with the changing issue. You can't run the car with this kind of output. Even your other gauges like temperature will not function accurately at 17+ volts.

That said your voltage reading, taken at the amp gauge, may indeed be correct for a close to no load condition. This was to check the circuit more than anything. Possibly I should have gone over what reading you might expect.
Try using a lower voltage setting on your multi-meter like 1 or 5 volts for the rest of the gauge testing.

Complete the other two tests, motor off-key on. Connect the two legs of the meter to the two legs of the plug that supplies the gauge. I use spade lugs inserted part way into the wiring plug so I don't have to hold the leads but my meter has alligator clips. Your method is fine. Turn on the headlights on low and get the reading and do the same thing with the headlights on high. Record the readings. If you have something like 1/4 volt don't worry that is what I am looking for.

Do not run your car for this test. You need to figure out the charging voltage first thing. 17+ volts will damage your battery and who knows what else if it isn't dealt with.

The above tests could confirm your gauge function with the car off. With your car running the over voltage issues will throw off any voltage measurements and what might be considered normal. I would recommend a min max test at the gauge be preformed while the car started. May be getting into more than is reasonable to do over the internet. Get the charging voltage fixed! This could solve this problem as well.

I also looked at the 63 gauges I have and they all have stops, on the gauge face, so the needle can't rotate past the 40A mark. How yours is getting past this stop is beyond me.

Rick

[Raymond R.]

Re: 63 amp gauge

I appreciate your help, Rick. I decided this is more than I can handle. I posted a message requesting recommendations of a facility or person who could handle this issue. I live in Northern/Central New Jersey. I am willing to have the car towed a reasonable distance. With the charging issues, I don't think I want to drive it. Though, I have been told I might be alright if I keep the high beams on and also the blower (fan that works with the heater/defrosters). The thought is this will bring the charging rate down enough prevent damage to the electrical system. I don't know if I want to risk it. I will not be driving the car for personal use until it is fixed. When I find someone to work on the car, my thought is to play it safe and have it towed there.

There was another reply that also questioned how the needle on the amp. gauge could go past the posts. My gauge is a 63 gauge. It has both posts. You would think they would prevent the needle from going past the post. However, mine flies by without any problem. It doesn't pass by as overcharging. When you start the car, it goes to the negative side and passes the post. It does it quickly, without any hesitation. It then stays there while the car is running. The next time you start the car, it flips to the correct position.

The needle on the gauge is not straight. The tip has a bend in it. The center of the gauge is cone shaped. The needle comes out of the cone and is then bent straight up. My thought is the bend must be allowing the needle to pass over the post. When looking at the gauge, it passes over the post on the left side of the gauge.

Will let you know, when the issue finally gets resolved. I have a feeling it may be awhile. Thanks again.

[Richard G.]

Re: 63 amp gauge

if you have a 340 or 360 hp car you could just remove the alternator belt and drive it on the battery.
Or just unplug the alternator and go.

By the way this would be an interesting test.
Unplug the alternator and start the car. Check if the amp gauge flips sides without the alternator.

Best of luck.

[Raymond R.]

Re: 63 amp gauge

My engine is a 250 hp. I unplugged the alternator and started the car. The amp gauge still flipped sides.

[Joe R.]

Re: 63 amp gauge

You are not reading the responses. People are trying to help you and your not listening. A 63 amp gauge cannot do what you are saying because it has stops. The pointer is bent or the stops are broken off. Anyway your gauge is not functioning correctly. Fix it or get a new one.

JR

[Raymond R.]

Re: 63 amp gauge

Thanks for getting me back on track, Joe. If I buy a new gauge, can I test it by unplugging the one in the dash and plugging that into the new gauge without actually installing the new gauge?

[Joe R.]

Re: 63 amp gauge

Raymond,

Yes, just plug it in. The Amp gauge does not need to be grounded.

Please make sure your new gauge is from a distributor of the K&B gauges.

JR

[Stan E.]

Re: 63 amp gauge

The 63 amp gauge can be removed without unfastening the cluster.