63 amp gauge

[Raymond R.]

I read a past post regarding the amp gauge. It cautioned: "On shorting, you do not want any ohmic contact between the ammeter posts and the instrument cluster." I do not know how to check for this.
In anticipation of removing the amp. gauge, I removed the nuts from the ammeter posts. I was not able to move the cluster forward enough to remove the amp.gauge. I decided to put things back as they were. I refastened the cluster, refastened the nuts to the ammeter posts and reconnected the amp gauge. Upon starting the car, the amp.gauge pointed down to 6 rather than straight up to 12. It now alternates between these positions every time I restart the car. If it points up to 12 when you start the car, it will point down to the 6 position the next time you start it.
I have not been able to find any crimped wires from refastening the cluster. I am wondering if I shorted the ammeter posts to the instrument cluster when I refastened the ammeter posts.
Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

[Stewart L.]

Re: 63 amp gauge

There a lot of guys that know more about electrical than me but I can tell you that your ammeter is not shorted. If it were, you would have wires immeaditely fried from the ammeter to the horn relay and the starter and a lot of smoke.

[Richard G.]

Re: 63 amp gauge

I have heard of this happening before. Sometimes caused by a intermittent short. However I doubt this is your issue.
My 63 the amp gauge unplugs, you stated that you "(refastened the nuts to the ammeter posts)". Was this after unplugging?
Possibly this is the procedure I used to change out the gauge after pulling the pod. I will get you some pictures in the morning as I have an extra pod and a defective gauge. Something may have changed inside the gauge when you pulled the posts.

I pulled mine out about 2 weeks ago. I had to lower the column, unhook the tach and spedo cables and removed the light switch. Then I was able to pull the cluster out about 2 to 3 inches. This gave me enough access to pull the pod. (The pod with the amp and fuel gauges). I didn't have to unhook any wiring except the gauge. This was completed without a seat in the car. The capacitors have to be installed before the cluster is reinstalled or there is no method to get them positioned correctly. I have a 1/4 drive handle that has a flexible end. This worked great in the extremely tight area.

I had the cluster rebuilt and all the gauges and the amp gauge failed out of the box.
NOS replacement was just over $100. I see there are reproductions also.

[Frank D.]

Re: 63 amp gauge

I remove the 63 fuel/amp two gauge pod without disconnecting the tach/speedo but it is TIGHT.
Try to find an NOS amp gauge - if the repros are like the repro fuel gauge they won't look right.

[Joe R.]

Re: 63 amp gauge

How does this happen? 63 and 64 Amp gauges have pegs on both side to prevent the pointer from going 180 out of phase. The pointer is not positioned correctly or the pointer is bent.
There is 12 volts on both legs of an amp gauge. With the key on you ground either of the legs and you get sparks and probably a burned up amp gauge.
Most if not all 63-64 amp gauges as well as 65-67 have lost their dampening fluid so you might as well replace the gauge anyway!

JR

[Richard G.]

Re: 63 amp gauge

Below are pictures of the gauge pod and the amp gauge removed from the pod.
As you can see the small screw retain the electrical and do not remove the gauge.

[Raymond R.]

Re: 63 amp gauge

Thanks for the pictures. I now realize I did not unfasten the posts. I unplugged the gauge and took the nuts off the screws that hold the gauge to the pod. I tried to get the pod out, but was not able to pull the cluster out far enough to access the screws that hold the pod. I have a 1/4 drive but not with a flexible end. I will look to purchase one and try again.

I was previously advised I needed to drop the steering column to pull the cluster. I am not sure what that involves. I don't have enough confidence in my mechanical skills to pull the steering column out of the car. I tried removing the support under the steering wheel, but that did not seem to drop the column far enough.

[Richard G.]

Re: 63 amp gauge

The column is made to move in and out 2 inches from the factory.

Take the one clamp off the steering column, the one located under the hood.
Loosen the top bolt on the steering coupler.
Loosen the nuts on the "U" bolts that retain the column to the brace under the dash.
There are also two screw that retain the column bezel.
Then you can pull out and slightly lower the column to gain access.
No need to pull the column all the way out.
If you do this and have the flexible handle you should be able to get the pod out.
The bod bolts are on the edges and there are only three. One in the center that actually retains two sections/pods with one screw.
Only loosen this bolt you can get the pod out with it still in. This way you will not have to struggle to get it started when your put things back together.

This is the same procedure needed to access some of the upper bulbs.
I would turn my dash lights on in the dark and be sure all the bulbs are working.
Be sure the turn-signals and high beam lights are working along with the blinker bulbs for the E-brake and the headlight rotating warning lights.
Unless you are a bat and enjoy hanging upside down.
Two bolts and the drivers seat comes out. Highly recommended you remove it first to give yourself some room.

[Raymond R.]

Re: 63 amp gauge

Thanks again, Richard. You indicate you used a "1/4 drive handle that has a flexible end." I searched the tool on Amazon. I found three different types. There is a "1/4 inch drive quick release head" for about $30.00. There is a "1/4 inch drive standard handle flexible driver " for about $45.00. There are various flexible extensions for about $11.00. I don't mind spending the money for the right tool. Which one did you use? Would you be able to send me a picture? Thanks.

[Richard G.]

Re: 63 amp gauge

This is what I used.

On Amazon I found this;

ARES 70015 | Flexible Screwdriver | 1/4-inch Drive Quick Release Bit Holder | Strong and Flexible Shaft | Allows for Access to Tight and Confined Spaces | Includes 1/4-inch Drive Socket Adapter.

it cost under $10 and should work. It has an adapter for 1/4" sockets.

[Raymond R.]

Re: 63 amp gauge

Thanks again, Richard.

[Frank D.]

Re: 63 amp gauge

This is what I use with a 1/4" socket on the end; you can run those small screws in and out with just two fingers on the tool:

https://www.amazon.com/3-Piece-Finge...knurled+driver

[Raymond R.]

Re: 63 amp gauge

Thanks Frank. I will give it a try.

[Richard G.]

Re: 63 amp gauge

I never asked about why you were changing out the gauge?
I can give you some easy checks for this system.
Often this system is not understood well and the issue isn't in the gauge.

[Raymond R.]

Re: 63 amp gauge

I appreciate the offer, Richard. I could really use the help. I regret I will not be able to get back to this until the end of the week. I will contact you then.