transmission fluid. which type?
I need to add transmission fluid to my 57 cast iron powerglide transmission but I don't know which type is compatible with the Dexron 11 that was initially installed and at the time, was recommended. All I can find at the part stores are Dexron 4, V, and V1. What are you powerglide owners using?
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Re: transmission fluid. which type?
Napa Dexron 111. I like to mention that if you decide to vent a early powerglide, drilling a vent in the tailhousing will not prevent burping if you have the converter draining into the transmission. If your Fluid level is near the full mark on the transmission stick the drain back from the torque converter will reach the height of the tailhousing. Venting needs to be on main case. On a 55,56,57 one might vent a tailshaft housing if they do not want to drop the transmission, but it will involve turning the tailhousing 180 degrees and drilling it from underneath. Again, drilling at the tailhousing might only give you a couple more days before the transmission has the possibility to burb.Last edited by John S.; May 23, 2018, 01:57 AM. -
Re: transmission fluid. which type?
I believe Dextron or any Dextron compatible fluid is acceptable. I got a case from Costco for my 57 FI PG casr and it worked fine.Comment
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Re: transmission fluid. which type?
Thank you guys for the advice. I will check the stores tomorrow. If I decide to drill a vent hole, what kind of vent do you install in the hole to keep dirt out?Comment
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Re: transmission fluid. which type?
I believe a small tube can be used on the vent hole and bent down to conform to the transmission case. No filter , etc.
My 57 PG , FI car had no vent and the convertor would drain down if the car sat for over a month. During the driving season it never leaked a drop of trans fluid.Comment
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Re: transmission fluid. which type?
My powerglide has another problem that I thought would be resolved by getting the fluid up to the required level. It won't shift into 2nd gear I've been researching this problem and have decided it is a rear pump issue. I got the car up to 45 mph and turned the key off. Then I put the car in neutral. When I turned the key back on and put the car in gear, it did not start the engine. I was told this is how you test if the rear pump is defective. They say that the drive pin in the pump has sheared. Does this sound logical? My shop manual does not show or describe a drive pin, only a lubrication hole pin. Any suggestions?Comment
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