1963 reproduction fuel gauge

[Frank D.]

A question for Joe Ray (or others). Are the repro 63 fuel gauges worth a hoot?
My damping is shot and the gauge bounces with wild swings the whole time I'm driving.
So, its either send it off for a refurb and the car is idle for a while or swap in a repro.

I don't want to do it twice as its a cluster pull ( Ugh! )

[Richard M.]

Re: 1963 reproduction fuel gauge

Frank, Not sure about the repros... but

Just a FYI. You can pull the Fuel/Battery gauge pod out without pulling the cluster.

Remove the Light Switch and Rollover switch, gauge connectors and Battery gauge capacitor. You may have to drop the kickpanel vent cable handle assembly too for better clearance and view. Move the harness and connectors up and away as far as you can to clear the area. There are three 1/4" head screws to remove to release the pod. You can use a short 1/4"-drive 1/4" socket on a universal joint for the inner screw which is at center of the pod close to the main Speedo pod frame. It's a tight fit, but doable.

Once the pod is free carefully draw it out of the frame and work it down and out.

As you know the hardest part is getting your body in there, then out again, so bring lots of tools in there with you.

Rich

[Frank D.]

Re: 1963 reproduction fuel gauge

Frank, Not sure about the repros... but

Just a FYI. You can pull the Fuel/Battery gauge pod out without pulling the cluster.

Remove the Light Switch and Rollover switch, gauge connectors and Battery gauge capacitor. You may have to drop the kickpanel vent cable handle assembly too for better clearance and view. Move the harness and connectors up and away as far as you can to clear the area. There are three 1/4" head screws to remove to release the pod. You can use a short 1/4"-drive 1/4" socket on a universal joint for the inner screw which is at center of the pod close to the main Speedo pod frame. It's a tight fit, but doable.

Once the pod is free carefully draw it out of the frame and work it down and out.

As you know the hardest part is getting your body in there, then out again, so bring lots of tools in there with you.

Rich

I've had the cluster (in its entirety) out twice now and yes, no fun. I've heard you can get the small gauge pod out separately but never done it. I'll sure try that first....I think I'll still have to extend the cluster housing on 1/4x20 allthread standoffs to get the connector off the fuel gauge. It seems to be dead up against the Z-bar.

This is what the gauge is doing: https://youtu.be/FBcUfw_FcVM

You can ignore my choice of music: 30 mph, straight/level road and 3/4 tank of gas - it'd sure be nice if it was the sending unit - I'm never that lucky.

[Richard M.]

Re: 1963 reproduction fuel gauge

I've had the cluster (in its entirety) out twice now and yes, no fun. I've heard you can get the small gauge pod out separately but never done it. I'll sure try that first....I think I'll still have to extend the cluster housing on 1/4x20 allthread standoffs to get the connector off the fuel gauge. It seems to be dead up against the Z-bar.

This is what the gauge is doing: https://youtu.be/FBcUfw_FcVM

You can ignore my choice of music: 30 mph, straight/level road and 3/4 tank of gas - it'd sure be nice if it was the sending unit - I'm never that lucky.

Frank, Yes the Z-bar is tight but I got it out okay on the 63 I did. It'd definitely be easier with the cluster out a bit though.

Yes I see it bouncing a lot in the video. But I think the sender is fine. The fuel sloshes around so much and the float travels with it. My bet is the gauge fluid is dried out. The fluid is supposed to smooth the needle movement.

I agree it's a tough diagnosis scenario. If the sender internal resistance wound wire or wiper arm is corroded it may be doing a make/break fluctuation and seeing more than normal fluctuation at the gauge. I wonder if you could pull the sender terminal off the gauge and jumper in a fixed 45 ohm resistor and do the test drive again. It should read about 1/2 full. If the needle bounces erratically like before, it's the gauge. But if it doesn't fluctuate at all it won't totally rule out the sender either.

Another thing you could try is use a vinyl coated coat hanger and make a hook to catch the sender float. Try to keep the float arm tight while moving it up and down and watch the gauge as you move the float up and down. This might be a telltale, maybe inconclusive though.

I had Bill Harrison replenish the fluid on a 63 gauge a few years ago but it didn't help that much. Maybe he didn't put enough in, not sure.

Rich

[Frank D.]

Re: 1963 reproduction fuel gauge

I cleaned up the sender connections and the ground and it didn't do much good. I'll prob pull the sending unit and ohm it out since I have the spare tire tub down anyway. Its original so if its bad I'll send it off to John Wolf to refurb. I want to dig into that dash only if I have to...

[Joe R.]

Re: 1963 reproduction fuel gauge

Frank,

Yes, the repos are perfect however they will be a little more shiney. If you need an original I have plenty. And old original. Just send me a PM with your address and USPS will deliver in two days.

Please make sure your sending unit is OK as most of the time that is the problem. Usually the dampening effect is not seen on the gas gauge but on the amp gauge.

Joe

[Frank D.]

Re: 1963 reproduction fuel gauge

Frank,

Yes, the repos are perfect however they will be a little more shiney. If you need an original I have plenty. And old original. Just send me a PM with your address and USPS will deliver in two days.

Please make sure your sending unit is OK as most of the time that is the problem. Usually the dampening effect is not seen on the gas gauge but on the amp gauge.

Joe

Great advice Joe.... I'll get the sending unit out and examined and get back to you if it looks like its the gauge. I'd rather have an original if it comes to that...

Frank

[Harry S.]

Re: 1963 reproduction fuel gauge

Frank, when you get the sending unit out of the tank and if you determine it is bad and it can't be fixed look for an NOS unit. The new reproduction units are not all that good. Expect to pay around $300.00 for an NOS unit.

[Frank D.]

Re: 1963 reproduction fuel gauge

Frank, when you get the sending unit out of the tank and if you determine it is bad and it can't be fixed look for an NOS unit. The new reproduction units are not all that good. Expect to pay around $300.00 for an NOS unit.

I hear ya. I tried out a repro sending unit in my 61; it was beyond awful... Wound up repairing the original.
If the sender is the issue then I'll have it restored by John Wolf or search for an NOS unit -- thanks...

[Bob W.]

Re: 1963 reproduction fuel gauge

Frank Can you give me some more info about John Wolf is he a NCRS member ? and does he restore units for anyone? If so do you have a contact number?


Thanks Bob

[Jim D.]

Re: 1963 reproduction fuel gauge

Bob, PM sent

[Bob W.]

Re: 1963 reproduction fuel gauge

Jim, Thank you for the info on John Wolf.

Thanks Again Bob

[Frank D.]

Re: 1963 reproduction fuel gauge

Frank Can you give me some more info about John Wolf is he a NCRS member ? and does he restore units for anyone? If so do you have a contact number?


Thanks Bob

Sorry, been in the garage draining the 63s tank to remove the sending unit....which turned into a license plate light wiring repair...

I'm sure Jim covered it..

[Bob W.]

Re: 1963 reproduction fuel gauge

Frank, Yes Jim sent me a pm with a link for John.

Thanks Bob