67 turn signal switch replacement

[Randy R.]

Is it possible to fish the wires from a new turn signal switch through the wire protector on a 67 standard column? I have disconnected the curved connector. I would rather not remove the metal terminals from the individual wires on the switch wires.

Thank you,

Randy

[Richard M.]

Re: 67 turn signal switch replacement

Randy,

Note the wire color positions on the plastic connector. Note there is one blank position. Remove the wire terminals from the plastic housing. There is a release tab on each side of the Twinlock pins. Use a small pick or jewelers screwdriver. Don't remove the pins from the wires. Try to feed the loose wires/pins through the wire protector.

If it's too tight, try this.....Wrap two halves of the wire pins with some tape. Try to tape them as flat as possible so each bundle will fit through the wire protector. Separate each half in opposite directions. Feed the first half through the wire protector with pins facing forward, then while pulling on those try to feed the other half through with pins facing rearward.

Rich

[William F.]

Re: 67 turn signal switch replacement

Guess I'm slow but can't figure out the "half forward and half backwards" Without photo or drawing. Thanks.

[Richard M.]

Re: 67 turn signal switch replacement

Guess I'm slow but can't figure out the "half forward and half backwards" Without photo or drawing. Thanks.

William yes that is confusing isn't it? Here's another attempt to explain it....

There are 8 wires. If all 8 won't fit, 4 at a time might fit. Feed 4 through then fold the other 4 backwards away from the first 4 and feed those through. This way only 4 go through at a time.

I looked for some photos but can't find anything to help explain. If Randy tries this may he can take a few.

Rich

[Randy R.]

Re: 67 turn signal switch replacement

Is it possible to remove the wiring protector?

Thank you,

Randy

[Richard M.]

Re: 67 turn signal switch replacement

Is it possible to remove the wiring protector?

Thank you,

Randy

Yes but after the column is removed.

[Randy R.]

Re: 67 turn signal switch replacement

Thank you for the reply. I am able to remove the column. How is the wiring protector removed once the column is out?

Thanks again,

Randy

[Richard M.]

Re: 67 turn signal switch replacement

Thank you for the reply. I am able to remove the column. How is the wiring protector removed once the column is out?

Thanks again,

Randy

Randy, In one of the pictures I posted it shows the protector in the background. There are 2 spring tabs on the sides which snap into the mast jacket. Release those 2 tabs and it should pop off.

Rich

[Gerard F.]

Re: 67 turn signal switch replacement

Randy,

Take a look at this post from 2007:
https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthre...+Signal+Switch

Pictures 6,7,8 show the switch harness fished through the column in place on a 67. You don't have to remove the wire connectors, just the curved plastic connector. As Richard says, just fish the terminal through a half or a few at a time.

You don't have to remove the column. Just loosen the column support bolts under the dash enough to lower the column about a 1/4" to slide the column collar up from the dash. The collar has tabs on it to the dash on a 67.

When you put the curved plastic connector back on the harness, don't forget to bend the terminal tabs back out, and get the terminals in the right locations. They all go in the order of the terminal but there is on empty terminal place on one side. Easy to mix sides, as I did once.

Have fun

[Gene M.]

Re: 67 turn signal switch replacement

Be aware the replacement “wire strap” has different colors compare to the original. Also the plastic curved connector is a different color. Functionally no different but judging wise wrong colors.

[William F.]

Re: 67 turn signal switch replacement

Can you just buy and replace the cam part of the turn signal? If you do this, what wires have to be soldered? Difficult?

[Gerard F.]

Re: 67 turn signal switch replacement

William,

See my 2007 post above with a generic replacement cam at that time. You just have to cut and solder two wire.
As you will see in the 2007 post, the generic cam did not work well and I had to replace the entire switch.

With that said, there is a new cam made by Shee-Mar that does work well with the original switch as well as the Shee-Mar replacement switch.
It is a red cam and is made to original specs and is a lot tougher then the former generic white cam.

If you put them side by side you can tell the difference.

Just Google "Shee Mar" they are a maker of all types of signal switches, made in the USA.