Bonding resin question?

[Bruce B.]

Has anyone used or had experience with using Fusor by Lord Chemical as a bonding agent or adhesive for splicing fiberglass body parts?
Thanks.

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Description

[Gene M.]

Re: Bonding resin question?

Evercoat bonding adhesive is what you want for mounting body panels. Spliced in panels not a good idea. Should use full panels if you want excellent results.

[Bob W.]

Re: Bonding resin question?

Gene Do you have a part # for the Evercoat .A friend was told that they no longer make it & I can't find it on there web page.

Bob

[Jim D.]

Re: Bonding resin question?

Here ya Bob - http://www.evercoat.com/all-products...=vette%20panel

[Bob W.]

Re: Bonding resin question?

Jim Thanks I couldn't seem to find on their web page.

Bob

[Richard M.]

Re: Bonding resin question?

Bruce, VPA is a great product for sure. It cures much like the original panel, is strong and has less shrinkage than other adhesives. But......It Sets Up Fast.

If you are going to use it for the hood surround on your Gasser, I highly recommend Fusor or 3M 8116 Epoxy Adhesives. Both have a long work time and allow you to relax and not be stressed about the adhesive curing too quickly when bonding large panels.

After the large areas are bonded with epoxy, I use mat/resin where needed then finish off with the VPA.

[Bruce B.]

Re: Bonding resin question?

Rich,
Excellent, thanks much.
I assume that you used the short strips on the top to hold the nose in place by going into a strip under the fender.
That is a good way to eliminate screw holes. Since most of the damage on my 57 is near the headlight and goes back to in front of the fender scoop I will probably just use the right fender part of the hood surround and splice it in to the area near the door so I don't have to get into the dash and windshield.
Thanks Again.
How are you and your wife doing?
Missing that up north weather yet.
Take Care,
Bruce B

[Richard M.]

Re: Bonding resin question?

Rich,
Excellent, thanks much.
I assume that you used the short strips on the top to hold the nose in place by going into a strip under the fender.
That is a good way to eliminate screw holes. Since most of the damage on my 57 is near the headlight and goes back to in front of the fender scoop I will probably just use the right fender part of the hood surround and splice it in to the area near the door so I don't have to get into the dash and windshield.
Thanks Again.
How are you and your wife doing?
Missing that up north weather yet.
Take Care,
Bruce B

Bruce, Yes I made my own bonding strips for the 2 top joints by laying several layers of heavy duty mat on the top to create the proper profile, then glued the strips underneath using a quick cure epoxy. I made a large gap between the cowl and new surround area and beveled and crosshatch scratched the edges, then filled with layers of chopped mat and resin. This creates a very strong joint. I then finished the area with VPA as needed for a smooth result. I used a surfacing primer(Duratec) which helped level the areas along with application on the entire body. The finished areas have held up with excellent results.

[John R.]

Re: Bonding resin question?

Rich, love the photos with all the detail. Does this type of repair eventually show the repair seam years down the road or not? Thanks.

[Richard M.]

Re: Bonding resin question?

Rich, love the photos with all the detail. Does this type of repair eventually show the repair seam years down the road or not? Thanks.

John, I did this work about 8 years ago. My friend owns the car. There are no signs of any issues at both joints to this day. Some before photos are HERE.

I have seen repairs of similar joints made by others that show the seam after time. It's because they didn't use a proper repair and joining process. They simply used a adhesive to join the seams with no matt and resin buidup.

As shown I created a large gap with the beveled edges and used materials similar to the mating fiberglass to fill the joint. One of the previous photos shows the cross section of the edge of the bevel with the finished trapezoidal view is seen after repair. This wide strong bond is the reason is stays unseen over time.

Here are those areas after Duratec application.


Here are the areas after block sanding the Duratec. Then a epoxy primer was applied then final paint.