The ignition key on my '67 can be removed in the "on" and "accessory" positions (should not be able to do so). Obviously something in the lock system is worn. I have had the tumbler cylinder out and see that there is a small "key" that is lifted slightly when the key is inserted, but not sufficiently to engage mating recesses in ignition housing. The "tumblers" appear to be rounded where they contact the key, and I am wondering if proper functioning can be restored by having new tumblers installed. Question is: what is the recommended fix for this problem? I recall an article in a past NCRS Restorer issue involving scotch tape, but looking for a more durable fix.
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Re: Ignition key removal on '67
The answer is yes. Tumblers can be replaced.
Pete Lindahl or Gary Beaupre advertise in The Driveline.
Either one will fix you up. -
Re: Ignition key removal on '67
Also, Jessers advertises in the Driveline.
They have an excellent reputation.
JRComment
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Re: Ignition key removal on '67
Phillip,
Often this problem is caused by a worn key, and/or worn tumblers. The cheapest thing to try first is to get a new key cut to your key code by a real locksmith. Not at the mall using a duplicator machine. If a new key doesn't fix the problem, then I would next suggest new tumblers in the lock cylinder. Any competent locksmith can install new tumblers.
GaryComment
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Re: Ignition key removal on '67
When i bought my 67 many years ago my key was the "son of" many previous keys and was also worn. It took a special knack of pushing the key up and down to turn the key and it was easy to remove in the run position. When I cut a new crisp key to the code on the tumbler all those problems were solved.
I also sprayed the tumbler with carb cleaner and WD40 to remove years of built up gunk and grime.Comment
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Re: Ignition key removal on '67
Thanks to all who replied. When Jesser's was attending Corvettes at Carlisle I had him cut a new key to code, not copying a sample key as a guide. Even at that, having the lock cylinder in my hand I could see that the locking bar that engages with slots in the housing was just even with the O.D. of the cylinder. So, next step will send cyl. off to have new tumblers installed when I put the car into winter storage in a few weeks, hopefully that will cure the problem.Comment
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Re: Ignition key removal on '67
Gary, yes with the key inserted. It looks like the metal bar that moves with the key inserted is the only moving part on the O.D. of the cylinder, so I assumed that it must also interact with whatever locking feature exists in the ignition housing.Comment
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Re: Ignition key removal on '67
For what it's worth ... I've had great interactions/results with Pete L on both locks and wipers. Reasonably priced in my opinion and fast service.Comment
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Re: Ignition key removal on '67
The is correct. The metal bar is called the side bar, hence the name "side bar lock". In order for the key to be removed when the lock cylinder is installed in the ignition switch, the side bar has to move radially outward. At certain locations inside the ignition switch there are rectangular slots in the ID and the side bar can only move out when it lines up with one of those rectangular slots. However, if the key and/or tumblers are very worn the side bar does not need to move out very much and the key will pull out even if the side bar is not lined up with one of the internal rectangular slots.
By the way, ignition and door locks are the only side bar locks on C1 and C2 Corvettes. The glove box and spare tire locks are wafer tumbler locks which do not have a a side bar mechanism. The lack of a side bar makes the glove box and tire locks infinitely easier to pick open when no key exists. Whereas side bar locks are nearly impossible to pick open. At least in my hands.
GaryComment
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