Need advice on a 70 small block stick car

[David M.]

Goin to look at a cream puff Maroon 70, 350, stick, vert tonight. What should the first couple of characters on the engine block ID#? This is supposed to be a number matching, one owner, lady driven car since new. Which was supposedly restored.
Anything I should watch out for other then the frame, bird cage and wiper door? Im well versed with the 68s and all their troubles.
Any and all advice is welcome.

[Mike F.]

Re: Need advice on a 70 small block stick car

http://www.vettefacts.com/c3/1970.aspx

[Patrick H.]

Re: Need advice on a 70 small block stick car

"For 1970 the last six digits of the serial number are preceded by the model year and
S for St. Louis; example - 70S4XXXXX. Early 1971 Corvettes built in August 1970 to about September 2, 1970, (B02) are stamped 71S1XXXXX, following the 1970 pattern. For the rest of 1971 the VIN stamping is C11S1XXXXX. C for Chevrolet, 1 for the Chevrolet car line, and 1 for the last digit of 1971. For 1972 the stamping is 12S5XXXXX, with 1 standing for the Chevrolet and 2 for the last digit of 1972."

[Mike E.]

Re: Need advice on a 70 small block stick car

Is that the car in Belfast NY?

[David M.]

Re: Need advice on a 70 small block stick car

Yes Mike its the car in Belfast. Did you look at it?? It needs a ton of work and the frame is week. It has many original parts on it. Its a great candidate for a body off resto. Carpet was wet in the foot wells, T top leak likely. Engine sounded good. Aftermarket valve covers and air cleaner, but all other parts matched. No power steering car. Appears to be a no hit body. Apparently lady owned all its life. Wiring and vac hoses were shot. Wiper door didnt work. Apparently was restored 20 some years ago to the tune of 20K...I think not. Its no cream puff. Great start for full resto at 8 or 9K tops, not 16K.

[Patrick H.]

Re: Need advice on a 70 small block stick car

If the frame is weak, and there's that much rust, you have to worry about the birdcage. If that's rotten, then it's now a parts car.
Even if you got it for free you couldn't afford it.

[Joe L.]

Re: Need advice on a 70 small block stick car

If the frame is weak, and there's that much rust, you have to worry about the birdcage. If that's rotten, then it's now a parts car.
Even if you got it for free you couldn't afford it.

Patrick and Dave------

Absolutely, positively correct!! Once-upon-a-time I was looking at a 1965 coupe that showed heavy signs of frame and birdcage corrosion. When the seller noticed that I noticed it, he dropped his price by 3K. I told him that if he offered to give me the car I'd have to think about it. I was dead serious.

[David M.]

Re: Need advice on a 70 small block stick car

Yes definitely. Im not good enough with these cars yet to know everything. Im a 68-72 GM A body guru, particularly 442s (and W cars) and GS (and Stage 1s). So Im not 100% sure how to properly inspect the cage. I do know someone who does. The parts of the cage I could see looked ok...but just ok. Being a T topper theres no telling whats hiding behind the dash cowl firewall etc. Just looking under it I saw moisture hanging off the chassis. Thats a red flag for me as well as being able to poke my finger through the cross member behind the seats. Strangely the rear frame kick up areas were solid. Improper storage. Parts car with plenty of numbers matching parts, yes. Unless you were a professional with a soft spot for this car and had a pocket full of 100s with body jigs bird cage restoration knowledge et al...On to the next car. Were looking for a desert dry (at least non humid rust belt) 67-72 driver mostly matching numbers at least the major components. We have the $$ to spend on the right car.