C5 rear sway bars

[Gregory M.]

The rear sway bar on my 98 with 210k miles just snapped...damn things hollow. I see 2 sizes on epay a 17.2mm and 19.1 mm. My car has active handling option but nothing else on window sticker referencing suspension. Its a 98 pace car and avtive handling part of that package.

So which bar do i need?

[Joe L.]

Re: C5 rear sway bars

The rear sway bar on my 98 with 210k miles just snapped...damn things hollow. I see 2 sizes on epay a 17.2mm and 19.1 mm. My car has active handling option but nothing else on window sticker referencing suspension. Its a 98 pace car and avtive handling part of that package.

So which bar do i need?

Gregory-------


Well, there are 3 ways to determine which one you need. First, measure the OD of the broken bar you have. Second, look for a paper tag on the broken bar. If it's printed "XA", then you need the 19.1 mm bar. If it's any other code, you need the other bar (I think it's 17.2 mm, but I'm not sure). Third, check your SERVICE PARTS IDENTIFICATION (SPI) label. There will be a code of either "FE1" or "FE3". If the code is "FE1", then you need the 19.1 mm bar. If the code is "FE3", then you need the other bar (whatever OD it is).

Actually, I believe the 19.1 mm bar is hollow and the other, slightly smaller OD bar is solid. So, I'd say it's VERY likely you're going to find your broken bar is 19.1 mm and there's an "FE1" on your SPI label. I believe the solid bar was used only on cars with Z51.

The GM part numbers for the bars are as follows:

FE1-----GM #10283944

FE3-----GM #10283945

The GM #10283944 is still available from GM at a current GM LIST price of $88.24, but can be purchased for much less. The GM #10283945 is GM-discontinued and difficult to find NOS. I HIGHLY recommend going with a new GM part; you've found out what can happen to used ones and you never know how close to that happening a used one is.

Also, you need to change the insulators when you replace the bar. These are also still available from GM under GM #10431950.

[Carl N.]

Re: C5 rear sway bars

With high milage imo replace links on end of bars. Inexpensive and available from NAPA, Auto Zone and others.

[Joe L.]

Re: C5 rear sway bars

With high milage imo replace links on end of bars. Inexpensive and available from NAPA, Auto Zone and others.

Carl and Gregory-----


Yup, now's the time to replace them. They're also available from GM under GM #20822934. About 40 bucks, each, GM list but available for much less through discount GM dealers. Aftermarket, including Delco, are not configured like the originals, if that matters to you.

[Gregory M.]

Re: C5 rear sway bars

What amazingly thorough responses. While I could find no tag with a designation I took the broken piece off and OD on dial indicator was about 19 mm so going with that one. When I removed it I noticed the ends r toast too so they have to go.

Question: when removing the nut off the end of bar the entire shaft (end shaft) spins...since its toast I just put a vise grip on it to hold it but when installing the new ones how do u tighten them?

[Joe L.]

Re: C5 rear sway bars

What amazingly thorough responses. While I could find no tag with a designation I took the broken piece off and OD on dial indicator was about 19 mm so going with that one. When I removed it I noticed the ends r toast too so they have to go.

Question: when removing the nut off the end of bar the entire shaft (end shaft) spins...since its toast I just put a vise grip on it to hold it but when installing the new ones how do u tighten them?

Gregory------


Your original end links should have an INTERNAL hex on the end of the threaded shafts. Rotation of the shafts can be prevented by inserting an appropriate sized allen wrench into the hex and holding while removing the nuts.

The new GM links, while very similar in configuration to the originals, use an EXTERNAL hex on the end of the shafts. This can be held with a wrench while installing the nuts with a box or open end wrench.

Aftermarket links use a variety of methods. Some use an internal hex on the end of the shafts, some use an external hex on the end of the shafts, and some use flattened sides on the flange at the inner end of the threaded shafts. However, as I mentioned previously, all of the aftermarket links are configured considerably different than originals.