3 Speed Saginaw GM Clutch & Shift rod adjustments

[David M.]

Hi all,
I searched the archives in vein and found bits and pieces to my questions but nothing complete for a 68 Saginaw 3 speed stick car.
Im installing a new LUK Rep-Set. The trans and clutch are out of the car now, going back in this week...hopefully without any surprises. (Read my recent post about the LUK TO bearing).

Questions:
1. In the pic of the shifter note the rectangular hole and the half moon feature to the right. Can I use either to properly adjust the shift rods? The SOP is to shift the trans into neutral without the rods attached. Then insert a gauge into the rectangular hole of the shifter to obtain "neutral" position on the shifter gates...right? Thats the SOP for a 4 speed but what about this rare bird Saginaw 3 speed???
2. Clutch adjustment should be the same as a 4 speed. .125" of play at the Z bar clevis or .750"-1.25" pedal travel?

We've always had trouble power shifting into 3 gear without a grind. I attributed it to the fact its such a steep climb in ratio from 2 to 3 and I dont think 3rd is syncroed in this trans? So Im hoping to verify proper rod and shifter adjustment spec. Am I on the right track with all of the above???

TX
Dave

[David M.]

Re: 3 Speed Saginaw GM Clutch & Shift rod adjustments

Ill close my own thread here.

1. The 3 speed shifter aligns the same way a 4 speed does by inserting a gauge into the shifter to obtain "true neutral", (Rectangular aligning slot in the shifter housing). Then you make the rods line up with the trans shift levers with both levers in neutral. Note...make sure the gauge inserts all the way through both gates.

2. The shift rods made contact with each other causing lack of full 1st gear engagement and the infamous popping out of 2nd when into the gas going around a corner. (The shifter and rods are not worn out and the rods are in the correct factory orientation per the "book"). After aligning the shifter and inserting the rods on to the trans shift levers I had dad sit in the car up on the lift and row through the gears. Sure enough the 2/3 rod (front rod) was contacting the 1/R rod bolt at the clevis where it attaches to the top of 1/R trans lever. The fix. I tried installing the bolt both ways with the OEM acorn nut. That didnt work. So I tried a regular nut with a thinner split lock. That was better. I finally removed the 2/3 trans shift lever and slightly tweaked it in a vice to favor the tunnel verses the trans. Fixed! All gears engage smoothly as father GM intended.

Haven't road tested yet but did rowed through the gears, engine running on the lift. Seems much nicer than it ever has been.

Notes:
-New LUK 04-021 repset.
-75-90 GL5 Valvoline Synthetic trans juice.
-New seals in front and rear. National pn 7412S front, National 9613S rear.
-Dont forget to pack the lip seal spring side of the seal with Vaseline and dress the out put yoke surface with crocus cloth then coat with trans fluid before insertion.
-Installing new tunnel insulation is a exercise in futility. Install dynamat or pull the body off the frame...lol. See this post on the tunnel insulation. Heres the link:
https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthre...n-installation