I need to rebuilt the carbs (wcfb) on my 57 270. Does anyone know of a good book, manual or video on how to rebuilt these carbs. Something with good step by step illustration would be preferable .
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Re: WCFB Rebuilt
This is the manual you want: http://carbkitsource.com/carbs/tech/...fb-service.pdf
It even discusses the idle air bypass screw in the carbs' base if you have early WCFBs for '57.
I only buy my rebuild kits from www.daytonaparts.com now. Ethanol resistant and with a unique thumbtack float valve design that I've had great luck with. Avoid the Chinesium "white box" kits. NAPA Echlin has a decent kit as well.
The air horn has 18 screws of 3 different sizes, you do not want to mix them up - guaranteed stripped threads.
Glue this graphic to a piece of cardboard and push the corresponding screws through it at the appropriate places as you remove them and you won't go wrong.
There may be small discs around the metering rods down in the air horn - don't lose them. I also put a piece of blue painter's tap over the hair-like spring at the top of the metering rod "T" handle to secure it as I release the ends to remove the metering rods. Lose that on the garage floor and you'll develop a facial tick that doesn't go away.
I find that adjusting the float level on my '61 works fine using drill bits (1/4" bit and 1/8" bit in the case of my '61 carbs) with the air horn gasket removed.. Finally, the fuel bowls are pretty small in these carbs so centering the floats in the bowl is critical. You can look down in the fuel bowls and see why one float pontoon has "saddles" in it - don't mix it up with the other pontoon.
Its mentioned in the manual provided but take extra care to make sure the choke piston moves freely in its bore, they get carbonized over the years and cause ugly problems. I've actually had to take the welch plug out of that cylinder and scrub the bore with Hoppe's #9 gun solvent and a brass bore brush (it works)...Last edited by Frank D.; June 14, 2017, 07:16 AM.
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