Gents: My '66 L79 came with reproduction KOs. I check them periodically to ensure that they are snug on the wheel hub. I do this by gently tapping them with my lead hammer. Despite them apearing to be snug, are there any recommended best practices to ensure that they are on properly? Any guidance appreciated. In the back of my mind, I keep thinking about the stories of them becoming loose while at speed. Thanks fellows. Best, Ned
Knock-Off - Knock-Offs: Are they tight?
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Re: Knock-Off - Knock-Offs: Are they tight?
I use a Black Sharpie and make a line from the cone to the spinner on each wheel. That way you can easily check to see it the spinner is loosening. I also use a 7 lb. hammer to tighten.- Top
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Re: Knock-Off - Knock-Offs: Are they tight?
Edmund,
There are safety pins on each of the reproduction wheels so just tapping them to tighten might not work as the pins might interfere. I went to the Corvette America web site and they have instructions for installing the wheels properly. I also purchased a heavier lead hammer called ****** Thumper and at 6lbs it gives you more impact when installing.- Top
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Re: Knock-Off - Knock-Offs: Are they tight?
+1, did that yesterday on my '66. But my WW versions have a set screw inside that tightens down, not a pin. Maybe an older version?Big Tanks In the High Mountains of New Mexico- Top
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Re: Knock-Off - Knock-Offs: Are they tight?
Try ****** Thumper lead hammer. Just received mine today- Top
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Re: Knock-Off - Knock-Offs: Are they tight?
Early repros had no pins. Similar to Dave, I have always put a little crayon dot on the outer portion of the rim aligned with each of the 3 tips of the spinner. That way I can tell at a glance if it's moved at all. This also prevents needless banging on your spinners and wearing out your lead hammer. If they are put on properly, they don't move.- Top
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Re: Knock-Off - Knock-Offs: Are they tight?
The torque spec is 450 lb-ft, however there is no indication in my '63 AIM on how this was achieved at the plant. (Yes, I know they were not installed on the line in '63, but there are a couple of P-48 sheets in the '63 AIM.)
So check later AIMs to see if there is more information. Also, there is information in owner's manuals on how to remove and install in the field.
You can also use a piece of 2x4 and at least a two-pound steel hammer, and it's a good idea to make the marks as suggested and check them frequently. Harbor Freight sells an "engineer's hammer" that I think is four pounds that should work well with a 2x4.
I also think it's a good idea to use anti-sieze compound on the threads. The '63 AIM shows no "lubrication" requirement... maybe later AIMs do.
Duke- Top
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Re: Knock-Off - Knock-Offs: Are they tight?
Here's the 6 lb ***** thumper (If the software allows) --- compared to a well-used GM KO hammer.
On preview it looks as if it won't.
Attached Files- Top
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Re: Knock-Off - Knock-Offs: Are they tight?
Duke,i agree with you on the Anti-Sieze compound idea,i feel it allows for proper/max .tightening.This compound will be greater appreciated when it is time to remove a wheel,as the longer the K O is on the harder it could be to take off,don"t ask me how I found this out....
I also use a tool made by our member Dennis Portka.I M H O the best way to properly torque/and UN torque K O "s
Francis- Top
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