63 - 091 Coil / D1111 Ballast Resistor

[Thomas S.]

63 327/340 with correct 091 coil. The ballast resistor (BR) had been replace at some point by a previous owner and measured approximately 1.4 ohm. I just replaced the BR with the correct NOS D1111 (0.3 ohms). Engine runs fine at all speeds but the BR is very hot as in "don't touch it or you will get burned". The older incorrect one was definitely not hot to the touch.

Prior to replacing the BR, I converted to a single wire hall-effect ignition (Lectric) so I wouldn't have to deal with point replacement. The engine ran fine with either resistor.

Is it normal for the D1111 to run very hot?

Tom

[Bob B.]

Re: 63 - 091 Coil / D1111 Ballast Resistor

Tom,

The BR is to keep your points from burning out too quickly. If you have the electronic ignition, then just run a hidden bypass wire from one end of the BR terminal to the other. No need to risk burning it out. I burned up an original 091 AND an NOS BR by having the ignition on and the points were closed. I learned the hard way when I smelled something hot, but it was too late by then!

Bob

[Frank D.]

Re: 63 - 091 Coil / D1111 Ballast Resistor

The ballast resistor will get hot - that's why it sits on a big ceramic block... The Lectric Limited Breakerless SE (Stealth Edition) conversion is designed to work with all stock components...

[Thomas S.]

Re: 63 - 091 Coil / D1111 Ballast Resistor

Yes, the Lectric unit was chosen specifically for that reason. Everything remains as is and it looks fine from the outside. They actually state that the original coil and BR MUST be used and never bypass it. The Lectric unit also shut down the circuit 1 second after the distributor stops turning (engine stops) so there is no way to burn out the coil by leaving the ignition switch on.

I'll just keep an eye on it and carry a spare BR just in case.