1958 heater blower motor

[Douglas C.]

Hello all,

Working on a 58 heater motor. It does work but brown lead wire is frayed inside housing and the tiny rivets on the electrical connection base plate inside have fallen off. Motor stamped part # is 5047958, is that correct?

So, does someone sell the lead wire, grommet, and tiny rivets? Or is there a rebuild service if I cannot find those small pieces to repair it myself?

Thanks,

Doug

[Dan B.]

Re: 1958 heater blower motor

The correct part number should be 5044290. I think you have a passenger car motor there. As far as parts, I have never seen any sold separately. You can easily fabricate your own new lead wire and may be able to save the connector from the old one. Dan

[Douglas C.]

Re: 1958 heater blower motor

The correct part number should be 5044290. I think you have a passenger car motor there. As far as parts, I have never seen any sold separately. You can easily fabricate your own new lead wire and may be able to save the connector from the old one.

Thank you Dan. I agree, although part number I have is ok for now. I did see a prior post on this site where someone ground down screw heads to make threaded rivets to secure the inside base. I can get a brown 14 gauge wire (connector gone).

So, if you can recap: Is the connector a plastic female fitting, and am I correct the brown wire from the dash harness goes to one side of the fan switch, black harness wire to switch console as a ground, the brown wire from the blower motor to the other side of the switch, the switch when connected acts as a ground, and I do have a separate ground wire from Lectric Limited to go from the motor to a good ground (maybe overkill).

Comments appreciated.

Thanks, Doug

[David Z.]

Re: 1958 heater blower motor

Rich Mozzetta's article on rebuilding the blower motor is attached. The material about grinding the screw heads is on page 7.
Dave Z

[Douglas C.]

Re: 1958 heater blower motor

Rich Mozzetta's article on rebuilding the blower motor is attached. The material about grinding the screw heads is on page 7.
Dave Z

Thanks a lot Dave. Great article and information by Rich. I notice his brown lead wire has a male spade end. Most pictures I see have a female end fitting, and my fan switch has two male spades. The dash harness has a brown wire with a female end so I wonder why the male spade in the write up. Is there a link wire between the fan switch and the blower motor end wire?


And does the brown wire coming out of the motor get a grommet?


Thanks,

Doug

[Dan B.]

Re: 1958 heater blower motor

Thank you Dan. I agree, although part number I have is ok for now. I did see a prior post on this site where someone ground down screw heads to make threaded rivets to secure the inside base. I can get a brown 14 gauge wire (connector gone).

So, if you can recap: Is the connector a plastic female fitting, and am I correct the brown wire from the dash harness goes to one side of the fan switch, black harness wire to switch console as a ground, the brown wire from the blower motor to the other side of the switch, the switch when connected acts as a ground, and I do have a separate ground wire from Lectric Limited to go from the motor to a good ground (maybe overkill).

Comments appreciated.

Thanks, Doug

The connector should be a female metal spade connector with a cream colored plastic shield that connects directly to the male terminal on the switch.

[Richard M.]

Re: 1958 heater blower motor

Thanks a lot Dave. Great article and information by Rich. I notice his brown lead wire has a male spade end. Most pictures I see have a female end fitting, and my fan switch has two male spades. The dash harness has a brown wire with a female end so I wonder why the male spade in the write up. Is there a link wire between the fan switch and the blower motor end wire?


And does the brown wire coming out of the motor get a grommet?


Thanks,

Doug

Doug, et al... No grommet was used where the wire goes into the case through the brass ring. There may be a strain relief crimped onto the wire inside the case to keep it from pulling on the brush holder solder connection. Replace that on the wire before soldering. If there isn't one, use a small plastic tie-wrap.

IIRC that motor came from a 1956 Corvette that belongs to a friend. He was going to toss it out and get a replacement because of the seized shaft/bushing. I told him to let me experiment on a repair procedure. To him it was junk. To me it was experiment time. After the repair it worked perfectly, and when he came over one day I had it ready and a battery handy to show him the results. He was happy I was able to fix it as he loves original parts.

When I replaced the brown wire I used the same male terminal on the wire as it has a unique shape. I think that the '56/'57 used a extension wire harness for the interconnect between the motor and the heater blower dash switch, which is further away from the switch centered in the dash on the 1958 to 1962 cars. Your 1958 motor uses the Female terminal.

I have seen low-cost functional replacement motors, and recently high-cost reproduction motors, both with both the male and the female terminals on the brown wire. Based on model year application, the terminal may need to be changed.

Rich