1963 headlight motor rebuild

[Hugh G.]

[Don D.]

Re: 1963 headlight motor rebuild

Hi Hugh,

I had issues with the motors on my 64. If I'm thinking of the correct bronze bearing/bushing it is at the bottom of the casing on the armature shaft held in by the spring retainer. My shaft was stuck in that bearing and I pushed the bushing through the spring retainer trying to remove it which can destroy the motor casing. I ended up sending both the motors to CGR Restoration in Anderson, South Carolina for rebuild. They advertise in the Restorer and did an awesome job restoring the H/L motors along with the wiper motor and radio.

I have complete disassembly instruction for these H/L motors on the internet and they worked will to disassemble mine, but mine needed additional help.

[Hugh G.]

[Richard M.]

Re: 1963 headlight motor rebuild

Gents, If you feel you want to repair it yourself, it can be done. The flat spring is available from some of the vendors. I know Zip Corvette has them. I recall they may have the bronze bushing, but they typically can be reused.

....edit here they are:

http://www.zip-corvette.com/63-67-headlight-motor-internal-bronze-bearing.html

http://www.zip-corvette.com/63-67-headlight-motor-bronze-bearing-retainer-spring.html

They have other gearbox washers and parts too.

In this thread I show the headlight motor repair I did using a method I've used on other motors with similar bushings/bearings.

https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthread.php?108979-1967-Body-Lift-for-Chassis-amp-Frame-Restoration&p=762400#post762400

The pdf how-to document is attached below for reference. Its tedious, but can be done if you want to do it yourself. In the doc you'll see how I free the seized bronze bushing from the shaft using Freeze-Off. Works great.

After cutting the spot welds to free the spring, I use epoxy to hold the cover back on to the motor housing. The headlight/blower/window motors I've repaired using this method are still working fine.

Rich

[Gene M.]

Re: 1963 headlight motor rebuild

Most of the issues with the head light motors is there is no stop electrically to the motor when the head light bucket reaches it's stops. And the resulting loading of the steel worm gear against the aluminum final gear with the drive slot gets chewed up till the operator lets off the switch. As the motors gear wears the time between both motors take to complete rotation is increased. Thus the wear on the aluminum gear gets worse. IMO the aluminum gear is the weak link.

Yes, this is a piss poor design. But if a steel or hard brass gear with the slot was available the situation would be better. Also a method to control and stop the current to the motor at stop positions would be lovely.

I have modified motor shaft to low profile slim line ball bearings which does help. Best asset is reduced friction due to longitude loading of the shaft against bearing due to worm gear load. Hint, the thrust screw is not required to limit armature end play. I just back it off.

The weakest link now is the aluminum gear. I drive my car a lot. The aluminum gear on the drivers side needs attention again.........

[Hugh G.]

[Joe R.]

Re: 1963 headlight motor rebuild

Hugh,

When you look at the retaining plate there is usually four small blue dots around the edge. Those are the spot welds. The bronze bearing is held by the plate and the spring bearing retainer. The shaft rotates in the bearing. New bearings are not available in the aftermarket but the retainer and spring plate is available from Long Island Corvette Supply.
Send you motor to Steve Hackel in Illinois for repair. Don't have the number or address handy but have posted it before. That's STEVE hACKEL and he is in Illinois NOT Ohio!!!

JR

[Richard M.]

Re: 1963 headlight motor rebuild

Hugh,

I use a Dremel and a small cutoff wheel. Shaft rotates on the bronze bushing. The bushing is designed to be stationary held in by the flat-fingered spring plate. Hold the bushing in a soft vice after hitting the shaft with Freeze-Off to shrink it then twist and pull.
All step by step photos Here.

This post has the photos of the HL motor repair using same process. It's easier than a heater motor as you don't have to remove the brush plate.

The bushing is available as linked in my earlier post.

If you don't want to do this send it off as JR mentioned. If you are a DIY guy, this is why I post this stuff.

Rich

[Hugh G.]

Re: 1963 headlight motor rebuild

Hugh,

I use a Dremel and a small cutoff wheel. Shaft rotates on the bronze bushing. The bushing is designed to be stationary held in by the flat-fingered spring plate. Hold the bushing in a soft vice after hitting the shaft with Freeze-Off to shrink it then twist and pull.
All step by step photos Here.

This post has the photos of the HL motor repair using same process. It's easier than a heater motor as you don't have to remove the brush plate.

The bushing is available as linked in my earlier post.

If you don't want to do this send it off as JR mentioned. If you are a DIY guy, this is why I post this stuff.

Rich

[Richard M.]

Re: 1963 headlight motor rebuild

Thanks Hugh.

I just use epoxy on the plate as today's products are very strong. No need to tack weld. The bushing is made to be self-locating in the spring plate and by design it stays firmly in place under the end plate and the bushing aligns itself to the housing after assembly.

I also just remembered that that HL motor I pictured in that '67 post was already worked on before as someone cut the motor rear plate from the main motor field housing. The bushing was spinning instead of the shaft. The long bolts held it back together after my repairs of the bushing.

Rich

[Hugh G.]

Re: 1963 headlight motor rebuild

Thanks Hugh.

I just use epoxy on the plate as today's products are very strong. No need to tack weld. The bushing is made to be self-locating in the spring plate and by design it stays firmly in place under the end plate and the bushing aligns itself to the housing after assembly.

I also just remembered that that HL motor I pictured in that '67 post was already worked on before as someone cut the motor rear plate from the main motor field housing. The bushing was spinning instead of the shaft. The long bolts held it back together after my repairs of the bushing.

Rich

[Don D.]

Re: 1963 headlight motor rebuild

Hugh,

When CGR received my motors and inspected them he told me that the tack welded "finger ring" has a preload on it to hold that brass bushing in place. They installed / welded a new bushing and "finger ring" in my housing. They also have housings available, my other motor housing had some "creative engineering" on it and they just swapped it out (for a charge) with another date correct housing. They sent me the old housing with all the other old parts.

They also know that these cars in many cases are being restored and may not actually see use for quite some time, all their work is warranted and does begin till you actually install the items.

[Hugh G.]

Re: 1963 headlight motor rebuild

[QUOTE=Don DiGuardi (62456);796960]Hugh,

When CGR received my motors and inspected them he told me that the tack welded "finger ring" has a preload on it to hold that brass bushing in place. They installed / welded a new bushing and "finger ring" in my housing. They also have housings available, my other motor housing had some "creative engineering" on it and they just swapped it out (for a charge) with another date correct housing. They sent me the old housing with all the other old parts.

They also know that these cars in many cases are being restored and may not actually see use for quite some time, all their

Thank you. As soon as I determine if I need one or both of my units replaced, I will certainly contact CGR.