1956 1957 Ignition Switch Repair

[Richard M.]

This switch failed with a open on the IGN-2 terminal during START. IGN-2 is the Coil+ source during Crank to supply full battery voltage.

Using a few tools I carefully bent the 4 tabs outward to remove the innards of the switch, cleaned the dirty contacts, reassembled loosely, tested good, then reassembled and bent the 4 tabs back in place.

Photo sequence for reference.....

Rich

[Edward J.]

Re: 1956 1957 Ignition Switch Repair

Rich, There's nothing more gratifying than making something old work as new. I always like to find out what makes things tick. something like the ignition switch and relays can be so simple to fix sometimes, and the end result is it's still a original piece.

[Peter L.]

Re: 1956 1957 Ignition Switch Repair

Rich - GR8 photos & info. I'd say "open ignition switch surgery." Pete

[Richard M.]

Re: 1956 1957 Ignition Switch Repair

Thanks Gents....This was actually the first ignition switch repair I attempted.

BTW, This switch is a 1116512, marked 512. Since I had good results on the 512 I also hope to fix one I have here for a '61.

Rich

[Richard M.]

Re: 1956 1957 Ignition Switch Repair

I fixed the 1961 switch(1960 to 1962 - 1116577) this morning. However, I ended up using pieces from another '61 switch I had which had damaged tabs in the housing. The moving pieces from that switch were much better to use on the housing that had good internal tabs.

The switch with the damaged tabs caused the tumbler to fall out when set to the LOCK position. The tabs have broken edges.

Photo sequence. The photos with the parts side by side: Top row-donor housing. Bottom row-donor moving pieces and terminal block.

Rich

[Bob W.]

Re: 1956 1957 Ignition Switch Repair

Richard Nlce work , I guess use the same procedure on a c2 switch.

Bob

[Richard M.]

Re: 1956 1957 Ignition Switch Repair

Richard Nlce work , I guess use the same procedure on a c2 switch.

Bob

Bob,

Most switches I've seen have the same assembly method using the tabs, so yes, I'd attempt the repair on C2 switches too.

Now that I've had success with those 2 C1 types, I'll have to find a C2 switch and try it some day.

Rich

[John R.]

Re: 1956 1957 Ignition Switch Repair

Rich, I have a 512 switch with a very loose BAT connector terminal. Could I attempt to fix by disassembling as you have done and then try to press the rivet hard enough to tighten the connector again?

[Richard M.]

Re: 1956 1957 Ignition Switch Repair

Rich, I have a 512 switch with a very loose BAT connector terminal. Could I attempt to fix by disassembling as you have done and then try to press the rivet hard enough to tighten the connector again?

John, Yes, or you could clean it very well and solder the rivet to the terminal. Soldering gun best but not too much heat.

Rich

[John R.]

Re: 1956 1957 Ignition Switch Repair

Rich, much appreciated!

[Gary B.]

Re: 1956 1957 Ignition Switch Repair

...

The switch with the damaged tabs caused the tumbler to fall out when set to the LOCK position. The tabs have broken edges.

Rich,

What you do mean by the "tumbler" falling out? Do you mean the lock cylinder/core would come out?

Gary

[Richard M.]

Re: 1956 1957 Ignition Switch Repair

Rich,

What you do mean by the "tumbler" falling out? Do you mean the lock cylinder/core would come out?

Gary

Gary, Yes, the lock cylinder itself would pop out. It wouldn't stay in the switch housing in the LOCK position. In one of the photos you can see the broken tabs deep in the switch housing.

Rich

[Roger W.]

Re: 1956 1957 Ignition Switch Repair

Very nice work Rich. They really used quality materials in the old days. All of the modern switches are sealed in plastic and are probably not serviceable.

[Gary B.]

Re: 1956 1957 Ignition Switch Repair

Rich,

This would make a great article for the Restorer and it would be very helpful for more than just visitors to the DB to see and read.

Gary