Still struggling to resolve leak. I don't want to take space to describe everything I've tried. So, the pan is off again (3rd time) and I have 2 options. Try the one piece rubber pan gasket and use gasket sealer on both sides even though instructions say not to. Or replace the pan, use the rubber one piece gasket with sealer. My question is does anyone have experience using the correctly configured pans available through Corvette Central or other supply houses? I believe they are made overseas and before I spend the money and install it I would appreciate your thoughts on them. I am not going to try the incorrectly configured inexpensive pans available at the local NAPA. I would prefer to go with a NOS GM made pan but I don't know if I can even find one without mortgaging the house. The engine is a 1966 327 300hp. Thanks so much! Michael Kalogridis (518) 370-8796
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Re: C-2 Oil pan replacement.
Michael.
There are excellent original oil pans available. I bought one last year with one minor dent in the bottom for $45.00. Search the archives and you will find how to measure a pan to determine the correct seal to stop leaks. There were many available at the Florida Regional for small $$$ last week. Check ebay. Post pictures of yours so we have a look.
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Re: C-2 Oil pan replacement.
Michael------
First of all, are you sure the leak is the fault of the oil pan? Did you "flatten" the oil pan bolt holes before installation? Unless the pan is severely distorted, the one piece gasket should solve leak problems.
As Harry mentioned, photos of your pan might help.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: C-2 Oil pan replacement.
Hi Harry, I did the measurement for the correct seal. The radius in the front is 2-1/4" indicating this is an original of which I used the correct size gasket. I'll definitely check EBAY. I am hoping someone has an original for sale in upcoming driveline. Thanks so much!Comment
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Re: C-2 Oil pan replacement.
Hi Joe, I did flatten the holes. It doesn't leak along the sides, but does where the pan fits with the timing chain cover at 6 o'clock. It is ever so slight. After a very thorough cleaning of surfaces, placing gasket sealer in the 4 corners of the pan and torqueing according to specs: I backed the car into the driveway, let her run for 30 minutes without any leaks on the driveway, drove up/down the driveway several times and shut her off. Still no oil on driveway. Was ready to celebrate, went in the house for about 10 minutes and checked again to find nickel size spot of oil directly under front center of pain and there was the drip. When I place the pan upside down on a flat surface it doesn't appear warped. I have to get my daughter's camera to post photos. Thank you! mkComment
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Re: C-2 Oil pan replacement.
Michael-------
The leak could be originating at the front crankshaft seal in the timing cover. This can be caused by a worn seal and/or a grooved balancer snout. This is a very common problem. It could also possibly originate from a valve cover. Very often, valve cover leaks are insidious and "work their way down" in an unseen manner. The fact that the leak didn't appear until 10 minutes after the engine is shut down makes me very suspicious that the origin in not the oil pan.
Another possibility is a leak-down from the fuel pump adapter plate.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: C-2 Oil pan replacement.
Thanks Joe, Crankshaft seal and timing cover recently replaced. I'll check on your other suggestions. Thanks again!Comment
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Re: C-2 Oil pan replacement.
Keen Parts make a 100% correct replacement/reproduction NEW oil pan for the 1966 SB 300 HP engine. No need for used or reproductions. Cost is reasonable.
However, as others have already said, it may not be the pan that is at fault. There are other possibilities. The one piece gasket should solve any pan leakage issues.......especially with the new Keen pan.
LarryComment
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Re: C-2 Oil pan replacement.
Sounds like you need to get some dye and a black light. That will show you exactly where the leak is. You put the dye in the oil and then the black light will show the dye at the point of the leak.
Good luck...Frank
1966 Milano Maroon Roadster
2004 CE Z06Comment
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Re: C-2 Oil pan replacement.
Mike, Being in the Auto trade for 40+ years, What I generally see when a timing cover seal leaks, It tends to sling oil, so areas under the water pump get wet, sometimes the wind will blow it back onto the pan when driving. If your seeing oil drips the size of a nickel after shut down, it likely what you are suspecting the rubber seal is leaking from the front of pan. what comes to mind is the timing cover its self maybe slightly bend, also the timing cover gasket can sometimes leak from the gasket and run down the sides. My first step to locate the exact leak location is to go auto parts store and buy some dye that you add to engine oil, and you'll also need a black light to shine on the leaking areas, they can be had cheaply, oil leaks can be tricky as you have found. oil can run down areas that cannot be seen with the naked eye. The dye will help.New England chapter member, 63 Convert. 327/340- Chapter/Regional/national Top Flight, 72 coupe- chapter and regional Top Flight.Comment
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Re: C-2 Oil pan replacement.
Thanks everyone for your help and advice. Well I placed a metal straight edge on all the flat surfaces, the bolt holes need flattening. The culprit may be that when placing a 3" wide metal straight edge across the front of the pan I can see daylight at the bottom. So I'm going to replace the pan with a one piece rubber gasket and use gasket sealer on the gasket although the directions say it isn't necessary when using the one piece rubber. If this doesn't solve it I'll do the dye test. Thanks again everyone! MikeComment
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