Re: 1957 Corvette Super Sport
This is our plan for restoration completion before first start. Please feel free to add guidance so we don't miss anything. The car has not moved under it's own power since the accident in 1958. It needs some final items to be done before it can run.
Electrical Status:
The first plan is to thoroughly check the entire electrical system. I will do a visual check and verify wiring integrity and all connections. All new GM NOS wire harnesses were used in the restoration but have never been electrically tested. I have to add switches and wire the door jambs for the custom interior door lamps. The holes are still there for the switch high in the hinge pillars. We have a proper tar top battery but it has been sitting for many years and unsure of it's condition. I suspect it may be beyond use. I will use a fresh battery to test the systems and see about the tar top later.
I will certainly add a 30 Amp fuse to the main feed coming from the solenoid feed. This will protect any catastrophic mishap in the feed circuit. This will be a inline glass fuse tapped into the engine harness at the Ammeter gauge input. No harness wires will be cut. I will also add a 15 Amp fuse to the IGN "Brown" feed. THis will be a specially made jumper fuse with terminals at each end to fit between the ignition switch and harness. I'll get photos when I do this.
Mechanical & Chassis Status:
The engine was run on a dyno years ago. All coolant and fuel was drained. Oil is still in it and we may drain and refill with the proper oil. We'll pull the distributor and prime the system with my drill operated priming tool.
We'll check the differential and transmission fluid levels and adjust if necessary.
I'll suggest we fill the cooling system with distilled water ONLY for our first start. We can drain half and fill with proper coolant after testing the engine.
The Fuel Injection unit was rebuilt by the late Gail Parsons years ago as I recall my friend telling me. My friend has much prior experience with the FI units, I have very little. I think we need to stay clear of ethanol laced fuel for this as I would suspect that all rubber seals are not Viton. Maybe we should upgrade? For those that have suggestions please jump in with your thoughts.
Most of the other aspects of the engine and drivetrain should be straightforward. I'm sure we'll have some issues to diagnose as this car hasn't run in long time.
We'll lube the chassis and check all suspension areas. Tires are special US Royal XP-140 6.70x15's Whitewalls. These were reproduced from the original spare years ago. We'll check them for obvious flaws but hoping no issues. Since we're not planning any high speed runs they should be fine. (photos below)
Interior:
The custom interior will be carefully cleaned. It has it's original leather seat covers and miscellaneous leather features, such as dash roll and floor pan pads. We may use a leather dye on some of the areas of the seats that are cracked and some that are scarred from age. I plan to use a leather cleaner and conditioner to rejuvenate all leather surfaces.
Exterior:
The Pearl White paint shows slight aging in a few areas but overall looks very nice. I recall it was painted about 20 years ago. We'll clean and protect with a coat of protectant, either a wax or a glaze.
The original twin aircraft style Plexiglas windscreens will be cleaned with a mild non-abrasive solution. I have a Plexiglass cleaner and scratch remover which will help make them sparkle. I wonder if I'll find any 60 year old bug juice during the process.
Any thoughts welcome. We plan to begin the work this coming week.
Thanks,
Rich
This is our plan for restoration completion before first start. Please feel free to add guidance so we don't miss anything. The car has not moved under it's own power since the accident in 1958. It needs some final items to be done before it can run.
Electrical Status:
The first plan is to thoroughly check the entire electrical system. I will do a visual check and verify wiring integrity and all connections. All new GM NOS wire harnesses were used in the restoration but have never been electrically tested. I have to add switches and wire the door jambs for the custom interior door lamps. The holes are still there for the switch high in the hinge pillars. We have a proper tar top battery but it has been sitting for many years and unsure of it's condition. I suspect it may be beyond use. I will use a fresh battery to test the systems and see about the tar top later.
I will certainly add a 30 Amp fuse to the main feed coming from the solenoid feed. This will protect any catastrophic mishap in the feed circuit. This will be a inline glass fuse tapped into the engine harness at the Ammeter gauge input. No harness wires will be cut. I will also add a 15 Amp fuse to the IGN "Brown" feed. THis will be a specially made jumper fuse with terminals at each end to fit between the ignition switch and harness. I'll get photos when I do this.
Mechanical & Chassis Status:
The engine was run on a dyno years ago. All coolant and fuel was drained. Oil is still in it and we may drain and refill with the proper oil. We'll pull the distributor and prime the system with my drill operated priming tool.
We'll check the differential and transmission fluid levels and adjust if necessary.
I'll suggest we fill the cooling system with distilled water ONLY for our first start. We can drain half and fill with proper coolant after testing the engine.
The Fuel Injection unit was rebuilt by the late Gail Parsons years ago as I recall my friend telling me. My friend has much prior experience with the FI units, I have very little. I think we need to stay clear of ethanol laced fuel for this as I would suspect that all rubber seals are not Viton. Maybe we should upgrade? For those that have suggestions please jump in with your thoughts.
Most of the other aspects of the engine and drivetrain should be straightforward. I'm sure we'll have some issues to diagnose as this car hasn't run in long time.
We'll lube the chassis and check all suspension areas. Tires are special US Royal XP-140 6.70x15's Whitewalls. These were reproduced from the original spare years ago. We'll check them for obvious flaws but hoping no issues. Since we're not planning any high speed runs they should be fine. (photos below)
Interior:
The custom interior will be carefully cleaned. It has it's original leather seat covers and miscellaneous leather features, such as dash roll and floor pan pads. We may use a leather dye on some of the areas of the seats that are cracked and some that are scarred from age. I plan to use a leather cleaner and conditioner to rejuvenate all leather surfaces.
Exterior:
The Pearl White paint shows slight aging in a few areas but overall looks very nice. I recall it was painted about 20 years ago. We'll clean and protect with a coat of protectant, either a wax or a glaze.
The original twin aircraft style Plexiglas windscreens will be cleaned with a mild non-abrasive solution. I have a Plexiglass cleaner and scratch remover which will help make them sparkle. I wonder if I'll find any 60 year old bug juice during the process.

Any thoughts welcome. We plan to begin the work this coming week.
Thanks,
Rich
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