Correct Holley 2818-1?

[John R.]

Hoping some of the carburetor experts out there can tell me from the attached photos if this April of 1965 2818-1 has all the correct parts. Some of my questions/comments:

1. Are the front and rear bowls typical production?
2. Are the screws on top of the front and rear bowls correct? Sometimes I see flat head screw on top of nut and sometimes I see flat head screw within a nut. This one is the latter.
3. Is choke cover correct with the 58 LI in the center?
4. Is the accelerator pump correct design and clutch head screws?
5. Do you see anything else that may not be correct?

BTW the metering blocks are 4094 and 4099 which are correct.

Thanks in advance for helping me out. Want to know before restoration.

[Joe L.]

Re: Correct Holley 2818-1?

John------


1. Are the front and rear bowls typical production?

They look correct to me. However, it's possible the front bowl has been replaced. I have seen these carbs with sight glass on both fuel bowls, sight glass on one fuel bowl, and no sight glasses. I really don't know which is correct or, possibly, they were originally made all 3 ways.

2. Are the screws on top of the front and rear bowls correct? Sometimes I see flat head screw on top of nut and sometimes I see flat head screw within a nut. This one is the latter.

The float adjustment screw/nut is one of the styles I have seen on original carbs.
3. Is choke cover correct with the 58 LI in the center?

This I can't comment on; I don't know.

4. Is the accelerator pump correct design and clutch head screws?

Looks correct to me and these definitely used clutch head screws.

5. Do you see anything else that may not be correct?

The fuel transfer tube between the fuel bowls is missing.

[Timothy B.]

Re: Correct Holley 2818-1?

John,

IMO, the carburetor looks correct, the brass float adjustment screws do not look correct but that is typical of rebuild kits from the past. I believe they should be the flat head screw and thin nut.

I have seen the rear bowls up into early 1967 with the little eye on the face and the front bowl has the pyramid so I believe they are the correct parts. Be careful with the primary bowl threads where the banjo fitting screws in, make sure they are good or have a helicoil installed. It's a very difficult thread to find in a helicoil but don't fool around with gas, if you need to replace the primary bowl keep your original parts because that thread can be repaired.

[Bob K.]

Re: Correct Holley 2818-1?

John, All the parts on your carb are correct. It also has the aluminum vent tubes. The needle and seats are the ones packed in the Echlin kits from NAPA(one piece design). Be careful because they also made these in oversize. The rear bowl appears to have the volcano on the bottom.(original) These bowls are still available, but in some slight casting differences. They are same as the List 1850. I would recommend that you use the new design transfer tube. It has an umbrella cap on the ends, rather than the o-ring style. You can't tell the difference once installed. Check your fast idle cam, it should be black.

[John R.]

Re: Correct Holley 2818-1?

Thank you everyone for the replies. It helps me out tremendously!

So to summarize, I should change out the needle and seats on the bowls to be of the large flat head screw on top of the nut design and leave everything else as is? Need to add the transfer tube which will be done during restoration. Was not real certain of the front bowl design, but sounds like everyone is okay with it.

Bob, the fast idle cam is black and the rear bowl does have the volcano on the bottom!

[Joe R.]

Re: Correct Holley 2818-1?

John, All the parts on your carb are correct. It also has the aluminum vent tubes. The needle and seats are the ones packed in the Echlin kits from NAPA(one piece design). Be careful because they also made these in oversize. The rear bowl appears to have the volcano on the bottom.(original) These bowls are still available, but in some slight casting differences. They are same as the List 1850. I would recommend that you use the new design transfer tube. It has an umbrella cap on the ends, rather than the o-ring style. You can't tell the difference once installed. Check your fast idle cam, it should be black.

The master has spoken! Take it to the bank!

JR

[Leif A.]

Re: Correct Holley 2818-1?

Or, better yet, send it to him. Bob restored a Holley 4160 for me about a year ago...work of art!!

[Wayne M.]

Re: Correct Holley 2818-1?

..... The rear bowl appears to have the volcano on the bottom.(original) These bowls are still available, but in some slight casting differences. They are same as the List 1850. .....

Bob -- "Volcano on the bottom" ?? Never heard of that. I just had to go look at an early '64 List 2818 (no dash-1, with 3A3 date 1963, November, 3rd week) from back in the days when I had a small block. Took a pic of what I assume is the volcano. What do they call the other cast feature to the left of the "Holley" casting ?

The mirror view shows the top of the bowl, with the needle float level adjust nut with the flat lock screw. (don't know why the pic rotated)

[Bob K.]

Re: Correct Holley 2818-1?

Wayne, Call it whatever(sight hole). Holley used one bowl for different apps. They eliminated the volcano and (sight hole)after 66.

[Joe L.]

Re: Correct Holley 2818-1?

Wayne------


I call them "sight glass" even though there's, of course, no glass, at all. I think they were designed to be used as a "sight glass hole" for some other applications. I don't think I've ever seen one that was equipped with an actual glass lens, though. Maybe they were used on Fords or Mopar products.