1961 Soft Top Frame Restoration and Replacement Vinyl Top Procedure

[Richard M.]

Re: 1961 Soft Top Frame Restoration and Replacement Vinyl Top Procedure

I use string to set the bows to their proper dimensions to test the frame in the storage well and to prepare for top pads installation. The string makes it easy to adjust the bows. Once set properly use tape to hold them firmly. The #4 bow to the rear bow check will be done later.




Attach the swing latches to the rear bow and then the rear bow to the frame.


Carefully lower the frame assembly into the well. You will have to hold each bow until all are down. Check that the header bow is clear of the decklid pin. If the frame binds in any way or is too close to the decklid pin, adjustments to the mount or articulating brackets must be made.


Once the frame is properly set, recheck the side window fit. It is important to recheck prior steps to avoid problems later.

Take measurements of the vinyl top rear window widths and transfer those measurement to the rear bow. Find center of the bow then mark the ends where the window will end on each side. This 1961/1962 window is apx 32" wide at top and apx 35" wide at bottom.


Take a measurement of the height of the back window area on each side of the window. This is where the window side straps are prepared for installation and to set the #4 bow. Measure from the bottom of the vinyl where it's edge would be at the joint of the rear bow up to the vinyl horizontal split above the window. This is typically 15 1/2". The measurement from the side edge of the window to the edge of the strap is approximately 2". Transfer this to the rear bow using some marked masking tape.


The strap length must be cut for the 1961/1962 tops. They attach to the rear bow using special screw mounted cover plates. 1956 to 1960 uses a bow stapled strap, wrapped from rear then under to front, so the full length is used. I will review those later. On both types, both strap tops are stapled to the #4 bow.

[Richard M.]

Re: 1961 Soft Top Frame Restoration and Replacement Vinyl Top Procedure

Here the top pads will be readied for installation. It is important to keep them snug fitting to avoid wrinkles underneath which can be seen in the cabin.

Note the profiles of the bows and their features which will help maintain a flat appearance under the edges of the pads after the vinyl top is installed. The pad edge should be just below where the bow steps down. Place a piece of tape at each bow position of the pad and pencil mark it's position from the dimension sheet(or where the pads are line-marked)to make bow spacing and hole location easier.

This is the #4 bow, left side. As the bow rises to the right, the area before that is the right rear edge of the top pad as well as the area for the rear window side strap to be stapled to.


This is a typical tubular bow and the "kinked" portion where the edge of the pad rests. The #1, #2, and #3 bows have this feature on each side at their inward/towards center locations. The threaded hole is for the small screw(s) to hold the top pads in place.


THis is the edge of the pad as it approaches the "kink".


This is about where you want the pad to rest. Draw a imaginary horizontal line and you can see how the area will be relatively flat after the top vinyl is installed.


See info below for staple gun usage and staple selection. It is highly recommended you acquire a good pneumatic staple gun. A hand operated gun could be used but cumbersome and will not fit into tight spots.

Start by stapling the front inner corner, then inner rear. Do this while maintaining the bow spacings. Then staple the front outer then rear outer. Note on most AK tops, the front outer needs to be trimmed after stapling. Occasionally the end of the pad at the #4 bow position needs to be trimmed.


Note that the #4 bow is also the position for the "hidem-strip". That gets stapled at the center of the #4 bow, so when I staple the pads I try to keep the staples at the forward and aft positions of the bow. This way it leaves the center of the bow free for the "hidem-strip" centered staples. It minimizes overstriking the existing staples later.


Once the pads are stapled and relatively tight front to rear, 13 small screws and cupped washers are installed. Locate each hole from underneath using a awl. Start at the inner holes on all bows(#1, #2, #3) 3 at #1, 5 at both #2 and #3 bows). All screws are installed under the black cloth cover directly against the vinyl of the pad. The foam will cover these later. After each screw is installed, tap the edges lightly with a small hammer. This will prevent any sharp edges from being obvious after the foam pad and vinyl top is installed.


Continue installation of all screws and washers. Ensure the pad is relatively tight with no major droops. Trim any excess material at the edges and trim the cloth pad cover at each end flush with the pad.It is common for there to be some pad wrinkles between the #2 and #3 bows as there is a sewn split in the pad at that location. Place the foam on the pad and fold the lower cloth over the foam then the upper cloth over the lower cloth. Tape for now. Cement will be applied later to hold them together.


Place the thin foam over the pad and align the fabric cover flaps to cover it and tape temporarily. Trim the end edges flush.


Continue pad installation on the opposite side. Check the spacing on both sides between the pad horizontal edge and the side frame. This is usually what I try to attain when setting the pads.


Rear upper edges of side window frames to pad. Apx 5/8".


Rear outer edge of pad to #4 bow reference frame tack strip channel, apx 1/4" to 3/8" both sides.



Rear upper edges of side window frames(other side) to pad. Apx 5/8".


Front corner, left side. THis is typically pretty close to the frame on both sides by default.



Next up will be the rear bow with strap installation along with vinyl top material installation. As you can see, much preparation work must be done before the vinyl top material goes on, which is technically the easy part.

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Staple Gun information

Here are 2 Senco guns that I own. I use both, one on each side of the car to make it easier and not have to run the hose back and forth when I do my work. Of course, one would suffice but I have 2 so I use them both. Both were given to me a long time ago, non-functional. I repaired them with some simple seals and o-rings that were deteriorated. I run apx 90-100 psi pressure.



These are the staples that I use. They are 5/16" wide, 3/8" and 1/2" long. Most areas require the 3/8" length. I use the 1/2" length on areas that are doubled up and very thick. Those are where the rear window straps wrap around the rear bows on the 1956 to 1960 tops, and for all tops, at the #4 bow inner area where both the top pad and the window strap attach. Anther area for the long staple is the "hidem-strip" at the area above the rear window where the horizontal split attaches to the #4 bow, mainly at the same area where the pad and strap attach also. The materials get very thick there.


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[Richard M.]

Re: 1961 Soft Top Frame Restoration and Replacement Vinyl Top Procedure

All of the preparation to set the frame and bows properly, testing basic folding operations and along with installing the top pads set in their proper positions, will now allow you proceed to the final steps for a finished product by installing the Top Material to the frame.

This begins by removing the rear bow from the car to prepare for the Top Material installation. Remove the previously installed Rear Bow weatherstrip. The two flat Rear Window straps are used to connect the #4 bow to the rear bow on each side of the rear window. They add strength to the assembly. Proper fit and location are outlined below.

The 1961/1962 version uses 2 plates attached to the bow with 2 screws. 1956 to 1960 is stapled to the bow. Here I will show the later version using the plates and will show the earlier version later. See Addenda for 1956 to 1960 details.


The straps are made up of a tri-folded edge stitched material with one edge exposed. This edge must be installed so that it is against the INSIDE of the interior of the rear window area, i.e. facing the rear of the car. Cut the strap at the marked line as shown for the 1961/1962 version. DO NOT cut the strap for the earlier version. Note the cut is angled so be certain of which side it will be used for before the cut with respect to the exposed edge. The pointed top end of the cut on each side will point inward when it is later stapled to the #4 bow.


Use a hole punch or similar method to open the holes for the screws. The plate is installed with its profile as shown with the edge closest to the screws in a downward position.


Rest the Top Material on a large padded table surface with interior side of rear window facing up. Roll or fold the remaining material to protect in from harm. Ensure that the plastic rear window is protected by using a large paper sheet if not already in place.


Back at the car, measure from the rear bow Pivot bolt, over to the lower edge of the side window vertical frame. This is typically 1 3/4". The flaps of this area of the rear quarter vinyl are later wrapped from outside to inside of the vertical frame, under the rear vertical side window weatherstrip and glued in place. It is important that the piping of this vertical edge of the vinyl rests properly later. Transfer this measurement to the vinyl.


Begin to install the rear edge piping into the rear bow at the center. The 1961/1962 has a center locating feature(bump) as does the bow. Earlier years discussed in the Addenda.

Rear Center features 1961/1962.


I use a wide large pry tool to install the piping into the bow groove. After a few inches of the center area is installed, slightly stretch the material along the bow until near the end. Maintain the 1 3/4" measurement as marked previously with respect to the pivot hole of the bow.


It may be necessary to use heat to help stretch the material out to the ends as you are pressing in the piping. A sunny day or a steamer can help. A heat gun can be used but be extremely cautious as you can melt the material. I prefer steam.


Completed. Next install the rubber weatherstrip and end extension weatherstrips back onto the bow. Use the same method for that as before.


Carefully fold or roll the material and carry the assembly back to the car. Install the 2 rear bow pivot bolt assemblies to the frame. Bring the material over the frame.


The next step will be the two rear window straps attachment to the #4 bow.

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[Richard M.]

Re: 1961 Soft Top Frame Restoration and Replacement Vinyl Top Procedure

Attaching rear window side straps.

Roll or fold the top material to the rear to fully expose the #4 bow. Release the front latches and place a small block between the header and the windshield frame. Release the rear swing latches and place a small spacer block under the center of the rear bow. The blocks are used to allow some slack for the next step.



Release the temporary tape from the top pad to expose the foam. Move the foam aside and set the top of the strap over the previously stapled pad vinyl so it is tucked to its inner seam. Recall the 15 1/2" measurement taken from the bottom edge of the rear window area that was taken to set the #4 bow during frame installation. This should be the same distance for the location of the strap to be set which should result in the two horizontal strips of the top material above the rear window to be placed. Staple the strap to the bow at its forward edge, leaving the center area relatively free of staples. This area will be the place the hidem-strip(wire-on) will attach later. Do the same on the opposite side.


Remove all spacer blocks and latch all 4 corners. Latch the rears first then the fronts. Note that the right front should be latched before the left front. The right hole in the windshield post for the header pin is circular, the left hole is oval. This is to allow variations in the frame when attaching to the header. Check that the long area of the top pads between the header and the #1 bow are relatively tight and not sagging. If so then you have top pad measurement errors. Stop here, investigate why and correct as needed. In some cases either the front pad may need to be moved forward slightly. To do this you must remove all staples and restaple for a tighter fit of the pad. Occasionally the rear area of the pad needs adjusting.



Check that the rear straps lay flat against the rear window sides and there is no sagging of the straps.


Here you will see that the split in the horizontal upper and lower edges of the vinyl should be centered in the #4 bow horizontal plane. I show the center as shown with the arrow. Check each side for a equal distance of the edges of the horizontal flaps to a reference point on the #4 bow. Staple the lower flap to the #4 bow for approximately 2" or so of material. Go to the opposite side and snug the flap over so it tightens the flap slightly to remove any obvious wrinkles. Staple that side as before. Use a ruler to measure for equal distances on each side. You should measure apx 7/8"-1". This is done to verify a uniform look of the top when viewed from the rear and to equalize rear quarter appearance and to reduce wrinkling of the quarters, as well as equalizing the side window area of the vinyl on both sides.


Place several staples in the flap and position them so that they lie at the top edge of the #4 bow. Start at center and pull up snugly, then half way to each side, then at center of those staples.


Again, check each side at the outer corners to verify uniformity and centering of the flap. If it does not meet proper appearance or measurement, remove the staples and start over. You may have to adjust the vinyl or frame bows if necessary. Fold the upper flap over the lower flap and view the seam at the corners heading down on each side. The bulges at this stage are normal. This will be worked on later.


Once overall appearance and check of measurements are satisfactory, the next step will be the application of glue on the top pad flaps after removing the temporary tape, then final attachment of the top vinyl to the #4 bow, header and side window vertical frames.

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[Richard M.]

Re: 1961 Soft Top Frame Restoration and Replacement Vinyl Top Procedure

Addendum - 1956 to 1960 Rear Bow Features and Differences to 1961 1962 Rear Bow

Here I will show the earlier style rear bow differences and side window strap arrangement. The Rear Bow on the earlier cars is very different and requires a completely different attachment method for the vinyl top and side window straps. The lower rear inner flap of the top vinyl is stapled to the inner part of the bow into a integrated tack-strip as opposed to the 1961/1962 version which uses the built in piping method shown earlier.

A original 1956 to 1960 rear bow. This is a rusted original made of formed steel which was replaced with a extruded aluminum reproduction. More on those differences later. The tack strip is pressed into the inside facing channel for staple installation.


Note the features regarding the attachment methods for the rear swing latch hardware and depressions in the steel fabrication regarding integrated T-Nuts for the swing latches, window side straps and frame hold up straps.

Hold up strap T-Nut


Swing latch T-Nuts


This is the slightly depressed area on the backside where the rear window side straps will wrap from where they will be stapled to the inner tack strip side, under the lower edge, then up over the rear flat depressed area, then up towards the #4 bow for attachment.


Here are the methods for attachment of the straps and vinyl top to the rear bow for the earlier years. Frame adjustment and top pad installation is basically the same for all years. These photos are based on usage of a reproduction rear bow but the same process if you have a original rear bow. I made modifications to this bow to reduce post-installation conspicuous differences which can be seen in the document: "1956 to 1962 Reproduction Soft Top Rear Bow Modifications NCRS TDB New 96ppi.pdf"

The first items to be installed are the side window straps. The strap is stapled to the bow tack strip. It then folds under the bottom edge of the bow then over the backside depressed area then up to the #4 bow later.

This view is when the bow is in its normal position.


This view shows the bow upside down for clarity after the straps are stapled to the tack strip.


After both straps are installed the top vinyl must be measured in a similar method as the later tops, whereas the 1 3/4" typical measurement of the side flap piping corner to the rear bow pivot bolt center is used as reference.


Then find center of the rear window lower area of the vinyl lower edge and mark it. This will be the starting point for stapling the vinyl inner flap after this dimension is transferred to the rear bow center. Measurements for the heights on each rear window side strap to the #4 bow must also be made. This can vary based on year and top manufacturer. Use similar measurement methods as described earlier for the later 61/62 tops.


Once center is determined, carefully align the lower outer edge of the vinyl piping so that when complete it will be uniform along the entire lower edge of the bow. This is a trial and error method and care must be taken to ensure it stays in alignment. Start with some staples at center and stretch along the way towards the outer pivot ends and continue with widely spaced staples. You may need some steam heat assistance to get there as most tops are slightly short.


With enough staples into the flap to hold the vinyl firmly, take the time to reinstall the assembly back on the car for test fitting. Verify your outer pivot corners line up for side window vertical flap accuracy. Also verify the reference distance from the lower rear piping edge of the vinyl with respect to the decklid. If you have variations in horizontal measurements, mark the top and pull staples and readjust and re-staple. Test fit again. Once satisfied, remove the assembly and finish stapling along the entire bow.


Place the bow weatherstrip (1956 to 1958 Mohair(easiest) or 1959 to 1960 Rubber(most difficult) ), onto the bow and locate T-Nut holes for the swing latches and hold-up straps and fasten them to the bow. You may have to trim the top edge of the rubber style for the rear window side straps on reproduction bows as they are thicker than original bows.


The remaining steps for installation are basically the same as the later 1961/1962 tops. Remmeber to test fit the lowering and raising of the assembly paying close attention to intermediate bow binding, header to decklid pin clearance distance, and side window frame horizontal alignments.


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[Richard M.]

Re: 1961 Soft Top Frame Restoration and Replacement Vinyl Top Procedure

Continuation of Vinyl to Frame Installation. This generally applies to all years (1956-1962) with a few variations related to rear bow differences.

Before the vinyl is permanently attached it is wise to perform more tests to verify the lowering operation into the storage well with no interference. Carefully bring the rear bow up to the other bows and fold the assembly down. Keep a close eye for bent or racked bows causing abrasion of the vinyl material on the inside as well as the outside surfaces. Also ensure the vinyl material folds smoothly with no kinks. Verify that the decklid male pin properly clears the header. Any checks you perform here could save you much time and expense later.

Another common failure when installing the vinyl at this stage is the top being too tight which can cause the upper windshield frame to pull away from the upper glass edge. Within the windshield frame design, there exists a underlying flaw. This is common to many but not all restorers and repair technicians. Be aware that a overtigtened soft top can cause damage to the delicate lower tabs of the windshield posts. This is described in detail in the document: "1956 to 1962 Corvette Windshield Frame Glass Removal and Installation Parts 1and 2 mod.pdf" Attached below for reference.

Additional notes when stapling the rear upper flap of the vinyl to the #4 bow.
While stretching the vinyl upward slightly, attach the vinyl horizontal flap above the rear window to the #4 bow with several staples at the forward/top edge of the #4 bow. Keep in mind if you want to keep the staples up high so there will be no staple holes seen if it must be moved downward. Start at center and work half way across at each section with more staples. Don't overdo it here as there will be two more staple applications later along the bow.

Prepare to permanently complete the top pad installation. Any sags should be corrected by re-positioning the pads and re-stapling as required. Recheck your measurements.

Remove the temporary tape from the top flaps. Apply fabric adhesive to both top flaps. Tuck the thin foam into the inner edges of the pads for a proper fit. Trim foam if necessary. The finished appearance should have the inner(top) flap glued down to the outer(lower) flap. If using a spray adhesive, mask any areas to prevent overspray. After gluing, trim any loose ends from the front and rear ends of the cloth covers and foam, paying close attention to the rear #4 bow as excess material or foam can be seen inside the cabin. Repeat the process on the opposite side.


Hold-Up Straps:
Begin the next step by releasing the rear bow latches and raise the rear bow to install the two Hold-Up Straps. This can be done in a earlier stage, and in particular, for ease of installation it is best for the earlier 1956 to 1960 tops as those require a more complex attachment method due to the thick rubber rear bow weatherstrip. These straps are used to hold the bows in a folded position to raise or lower the top into the storage well. Also reinstall the snap in the vertical frame. Note the the strap is designed to snap onto itself when not in use. WHen attaching to the frame snap, twist the strap 180* before attachment.


The 1956 to 1960 rear bow requires a longer screw and all reproduction kits are not compatible with the original earlier design, only the 1961/1962 design. I typically fabricate my own fastener and special screw for attachment. The finished product is the same.



Side vertical vinyl flap installation: If you have a assistant this will make this task easier.

Pad or block up the rear bow. Release the rear bow pivot to frame bolts/acorn nuts. Remove the rear vertical side window weatherstrip. Use tape to hold the T-Nuts back into the vertical frame. This will make it easier to reattach the weatherstrip later as it is difficult to reach them, particularly the center position. Attach the lower weatherstrip filler to the frame using a Phillip sheet metal screw.

Passenger Side views:


With the rear bow released from its pivot, pull the vertical vinyl flap into position so that the outer forward beading is just forward of the front edge of the frame. Pull the material downward to ensure the upper rear corner of the vinyl is just below the rear corner of the frame, and also that the top edge of the flap is below the hinge point gap of the vertical frame and horizontal "L" frame. When the top folds this top flap must clear that gap.

Driver Side views:


While pulling the flap mark the holes for the 3 positions while ensuring all above features are correct. This is difficult alone so your helper can assist by holding the flap in position while you mark the holes and cut them.

Cut circular holes in the vinyl and attach the flap to the frame while re-installing the weatherstrip. Recheck outer vertical bead and top corner and upper flap during this process. Recheck appearance and proper installation by removing the pad/block from the rear bow, reinstall the pivot bolt/nut, and latch the rear latches in position. If necessary adjust your installation of the weatherstrip and flap as needed. This sometimes takes a few tries to get a proper fit. Recheck side glass window frame fit to weatherstrip.

Leave the extra flap there for now. After completion you can remove the weatherstrip and glue the flap to the frame if desired. I typically choose not to glue this flap if any future work is needed.

Cut round hole in 3 places. Enlarge if needed for proper weatherstrip fit.


Pass side view


Driver side view


Release the Rear and Front latches. Bring the front of the vinyl over the header and fold a loop in it and tuck it underneath. Ensure the inner folded portion doesn't get caught at the latches or alignment pins. Stretch it forward enough to check fit. You will stretch more later.


Latch the front latches and the rear latches. At the #4 bow, recall the folds at the corners of each rear quarter. Staple the rearward portion of vinyl about 3 to 4 inches down ensuring the staples at the forward edge into the forward edge of the bow. Carefully slice the vinyl to relieve the bulge until the forward flap will lay flat to eliminate the wrinkle/bulge.


Fold the forward flap over the previously stapled rearward flap and add a few more staples. Staple until the bulge is flat. Slice more as needed, but do not go too far down. Trim excess vinyl from the piece that is folded over. The Wire-On/Hidem_Strip will cover the seam later after all staples are done at the rear section above the window.
I will slice down a bit more and staple to flatten the bulge in the photo below.


Test fit the Wire-On over the seam to see how it will cover the staples. Don't staple it on yet.


Do the same on the opposite side.


Trim excess vinyl along the entire #4 bow where it was previously stapled. Do this so that there will be no rough edges sticking up when doing the final stapling of the horizontal area above the rear window at a later stage.


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[Richard M.]

Re: 1961 Soft Top Frame Restoration and Replacement Vinyl Top Procedure

Several test fits and latch/unlatch cycles allow better fit before final stapling is done.

Unlatch the rears and complete the rear quarter upper splice. Trim down a bit more until the folds overlap with no wrinkling, then staple the rearward flap with a few staples. Overlap the forward flap and add a few staples.


Latch the rear bow and place masking tape along the front horizontal vinyl at the header. This will give a baseline to prep for the header staples.


Place some tape strips and mark the header with arrows where the T-nuts are for installing the header weatherstrip later. You will be cutting holes in the vinyl for the screws.



Place a few small strips of tape at the very edge of the glass to the rubber seal on each side near the latch clamp areas. This is important as you will use this as a reference to ensure the top is not too tight and a way to check if the top windshield frame moves up from the glass when latching.


Check that the overall fit of the vinyl is free of major wrinkles and that the quarter upper corners lay flat. Check inside for sagging top pads. If the front section of the pads sag, you may have to roll the top vinyl back and readjust the front pad edges by removing staples and bringing the pad forward a bit and restapling them. This is not uncommon after test fitting the top vinyl.


Release the rear latches, fold the rear window up into the bows and release the decklid and raise it. Watch that decklid pin, and also watch the front edge of the decklid trims as they can get close to the rear window. Use a rubber plug over the pin for safety and put some tape over the front edge of the lid.

Lower the top carefully into the storage well so that the header will be exposed enough to attach the vinyl to the header tack strip using staples.

Bring the side flaps under the side window forward weatherstrip. Using your horizontal tape as a guide, roll the front edge of the vinyl over the header, pulling just a bit more along the horizontal plane(apx 1/4" or so) than your horizontal tape baseline reference. Place a few staples at the corners and along the front header as you pull the side tabs outward, rolling the outer binding down over the metal side frame and side weatherstrip area. Observe the appearance at the side front corners for proper appearance, which should be consistent on both sides.


Test fit by raising the rear bow, latch the decklid(be careful of the rear window and don't forget to remove your rubber plug in the pin), then latch the rear bow but not fully down, then latch the fronts to the catch but not fully latched. Latch the rears down then carefully latch the fronts while observing your small tape strips along the glass and rubber seal. Latch slowly. The glass should not move. If it does, the top is too tight and you will have to remove the header staples and release the vinyl back somewhat. This is trial and error, time consuming, but is important for proper installation.


When the header appearance is satisfactory, release the rear and front latches to there unlocked but still attached positions. Place a block under the front header. Place a horizontal tape reference along the rear #4 bow at the rearward edge of the bow tack strip as a reference for stapling. Stretch each outer rearward flap of the vinyl and place a few staples at the just rear of centerline of the bow, but not too close to your reference tape line. When taught, beginning at center, add a few staples along the bow, then half way between each. Remove the tape.



Test fit and latch the top again. Recheck everything.

Place a centerline tape mark above the rear window. Take your Hidem-Strip/Wire-On binding and find center and mark it.


The next steps will be to staple the Wire-On to the #4 bow, end trim attachment and then Front Header weatherstrip attachment.

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[Richard M.]

Re: 1961 Soft Top Frame Restoration and Replacement Vinyl Top Procedure

Trim the main top flap and quarter seam flaps to prepare for the Wire-On(Hidem-Strip). Use a thin plastic ruler and metal ruler on top to guide your knife. Use caution not to cut the material below the top flap.









After t r i m m i n g, place the Wire-On on the seam so that the rear bead is just in front of the #4 bow rear ridge. Use your Centerline guides and start to staple there. Staple near the rear edge of the Wire-On. Pull taught and staple each side near the quarter top joints. Staple half way between center and quarter and fill more at half way points until you have a staple every inch or so.






Line up the window center to the Wire-On center.


The edge of the Wire-On should rest at the lower edge of the bow crease.






Begin rolling the large bead to the rear to fill in the space where the staples are. Push down hard along the entire length.












At the corners of the quarters, switch to 1/2" staples for the additional depth at the top pad/window strap/top vinyl/Wire-On thickness total at each corner. Switch back to 3/8" for the remaining staples. Finish adding a few staples along the seam down to the tip area.






Prepare the Stainless Steel finishing Tip installation. Measure down from the upper quarter corner bead apx 7" along the #4 bow. This will be the end of the tip.


DO NOT use the hole that the factory drilled for the screw to hold the finishing tip.(pointer locating in below photos) It will ruin the look of the top as the tip will be placed hanging over the edge of the bow weld to arm joint. I do not believe the factory EVER installed the tip screw in those positions. Another problem with the tip too low is that it can rub on the rear bow vinyl and cause damage.




Move the tip up so that the pointed end is approximately at the place where the screw hole was. Use a awl and punch a hole into the Wire-On. Install the screw into the bow tack strip, but do not over tighten. Repeat on the other side.


They should end up in view as a imaginary arc over the side window slightly down to the tips.



Prepare for installation of the header weatherstrip. Release all latches, use hold-up straps to secure the rear bows. For safety, ALWAYS use a protective small cloth or rolled up paper towel over the Stainless tips to prevent them from rubbing the loose vinyl above the rear bow.

Carefully fold the top down into the well. Watch the decklid pin for clearance and ensure no binding occurs. Flip the header latches flat and close the lid. If the top does not fit into the well, unfortunately, you did something wrong.


With the top lowered, raise the decklid and raise the top half way and finish the staple installation. Avoid the areas where the T-nuts are located(tape arrows). I do not glue the vinyl to the header. Staples and the weatherstrip are adequate to hold the vinyl securely.

Trim out a small rectangular hole in each T-Nut position. Using a awl, locate the end corner holes for the outer sheet metal screw to hold the weatherstrip.


AAdd a few staples to the side flaps over the rolled front edge of the vinyl. Trim a little off as shown.


Install the header weatherstrip rubber and retainer using the #8 oval head screws. This is tedious. Do not tighten each screw as you may have to slide the retainer to one side slightly. Take your time. When all screws are installed snug them firmly to hold the retainer to the rubber into the header T-nuts. Before the end screw is installed on each side, install the filler wedges. Glue is not needed. They are marked LH and RH. Use Phillps sheet metal screws at the end of the retainer.


Install a #8 Phillips machine screw into the side window forward weatherstrip after pulling and punching a hole in the side flap. If you have to, drill and tap a new hole if the original hole in the header does not line up. Remember, the header is aluminum, but the window upper side frame member is steel. Trim the flaps after the side weatherstrip forward screws are installed. A small flap piece will show. This is normal. At this point, the header is complete.


One other thing to check. Those 2 outer sheet metal screws may be too pronounced and hit the windshield frame. Make sure they are tight. This issue is typically due to the header weatherstrip rubber and reinforcements, both combined, are thicker than originals.

Before latching the top, place several layers of masking tape on the area on to the windshield frame where they may hit. Carefully set the top on the windshield frame and check clearance from the screw to the chrome. If you see a impression, stop. Remove the screw(s).
The screws on this assembly failed the clearance test.


Choose screws with a shallow head. Example stainless screw below which solved this problem. A #8 machine screw will tap itself into the corner extensions.


Next, carefully raise the top fully from the well, lower the decklid and latch it. Release the rear hold-up straps and connect the top via all latches. Rears first. Slowly latch the fronts while observing your reference tape at the glass to windshield frame for any movement. Adjust header latches as needed now that the weatherstrip is installed. Hopefully your results are good.

One last item to trim is the side window vertical vinyl flap behind the weatherstrip on each side. As you recall, I did not, and do not, glue these to the frame. If they are glued and need adjustment, it's a mess.

Take a look at the vertical areas of the soft top, obvious wrinkles, etc. If so, you may be able to overcome these oddities by adjusting the flaps. Loosen the screw(s) which may help and stretch the vinyl as needed. This top needed a adjustment. After the screws are re-tightened, take your plastic ruler and use as a guide to trim the flap. Note it's doubled up near the bottom. Repeat on the opposite side.



Some wrinkles in the top are normal and can be eliminated with sunshine and a spray water bottle(distilled water). Keep in mind, Black tops absorb sunlight, White does not. On white tops use a black lawn bag over the top in the sun. Spray water on the inside and let it heat up outside. A steamer works best for wrinkle removal, both outside and inside, and even on the rear window. A heat and cool cycle is the function which removes wrinlkes. Several heat/cool cycles may be needed in some cases. I have a few wrinkles to remove with my steamer later. Raise the side windows and verify proper fit and appearance.

Overall, this top is complete.



I will add more information as time permits, including more Adenda related to tools, supplies, and other Soft Top related restoration information.

Rich
===

[Kenneth F.]

Re: 1961 Soft Top Frame Restoration and Replacement Vinyl Top Procedure

Richard, I am looking forward to re-doing my top using your great article. Is there a link to a pdf. file that I could print from?

Thank you for all the work you did to present this restoration of the convertible top.

Ken

[Richard M.]

Re: 1961 Soft Top Frame Restoration and Replacement Vinyl Top Procedure

Richard, I am looking forward to re-doing my top using your great article. Is there a link to a pdf. file that I could print from?

Thank you for all the work you did to present this restoration of the convertible top.

Ken

Ken,

Thank You..... Dave Zuberer has been creating the pdf from this thread as a ongoing project. He and I need to do a review and we need to add a few more things to it, but it's mostly done. It is very large, up to about 11 MB now, and cannot be uploaded to our server here due to file size limitations. We may have to break it down into subsections for ease of access. But for now, via the PM system here in my profile, Email to me your email address and I'll send you a preliminary copy when Dave adds the latest info to it.

----

Also, I think it would be also helpful to all, if anyone else could send me their comments or additional ideas for review. There are certainly different methods that other installers may use which may or may not agree with some of my procedures, but this is the way I've been doing it for many years and works for me. As usual, I am always open to comments and further discussion from anyone who wants to take the time to share their knowledge also.

I don't think this task has ever been documented the way this one has been done. There are videos available, and are a very useful tool, but lack some of the actual top install detail and do not address the frame detail that I did here, which is the major foundation for a properly installed finished product. This is one of the main reasons I decided to document this.

As I mentioned from the start, this is to help the self-restorers with limited experience who are determined to do it themselves. Those without the basic skills and without the desire should have it done professionally at a specifically Corvette knowledgeable facility. As can be seen, it's a time-consuming job that takes patience but can be done by anyone with the basic skills and desire. I did my first top install over 25 years ago, and I made many mistakes, but I wanted to do it myself. The first is always the toughest.

Rich

[Tom A.]

Re: 1961 Soft Top Frame Restoration and Replacement Vinyl Top Procedure

Rich,
I believe the installation of the rear bow pivot bushing may be inaccurate. I am currently doing tops on a '57 and '59 and in each case the bushings are installed flat face to flat face creating a bearing surface with the small ends facing out towards the bolt and nut.
Tom

[Tom A.]

Re: 1961 Soft Top Frame Restoration and Replacement Vinyl Top Procedure

I forgot to say thanks for the article, very well done and a great help.
Tom

[Richard M.]

Re: 1961 Soft Top Frame Restoration and Replacement Vinyl Top Procedure

Rich,
I believe the installation of the rear bow pivot bushing may be inaccurate. I am currently doing tops on a '57 and '59 and in each case the bushings are installed flat face to flat face creating a bearing surface with the small ends facing out towards the bolt and nut.
Tom

Tom, Yes that's a great catch. Thanks for noticing that. Right after I read your note I totally agreed, the bushing faces should be inside the arm and frame joint. I clearly made a mistake.

In fact, I think the soft top frame diagrams from the P&A catalogs may even show that. I'll have to find it. I'll make the change and take some new photos and will ask Don Hooper to fix it for me.

Thanks,
Rich

I forgot to say thanks for the article, very well done and a great help.
Tom

Appreciate the appreciation. Thanks.