1967 Fuse Panel Housing and Bulkhead Connector Block Replacement

[Richard M.]

Today I spent some time to replace a bulkhead housing block which had a broken plastic connector clip and a butt splice on the Battery Gauge sense wire(Blk/Wt). While I was at it I replaced the fuse panel housing due to some cracked edges and poor silkscreen. I replaced it with a nice original "P.E. DIV" panel and block housing.

After removing the 16 Twinlock terminals from both housings(32 total), and removing and cleaning the fuse clips and terminals, I replaced all wiring into the new panel. I will test all circuits before install

Before & After.....

[Peter M.]

Re: 1967 Fuse Panel Housing and Bulkhead Connector Block Replacement

Rich,
Beautiful work as always.
Kind regards

[Geoff C.]

Re: 1967 Fuse Panel Housing and Bulkhead Connector Block Replacement

Curious:
how long did that take?
are the wires 49 years old?

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Fuse Panel Housing and Bulkhead Connector Block Replacement

Thanks Peter....

Goeff,

I didn't track my time, but maybe 1 to 2 hours. The wiring is actually 50+ years old as it was a December built car. This car needs assembly line parts as it will be campaigned for Flight Judging and further authenticy events. My friend who owns the car wants it this way. The wiring is still quite pliable. I made several splices using soldered connections and heat shrink, like that blk/wt wire in the photos that had a butt connector splice from years ago.

Reproduction harnesses are good for functionality, but are quite deficient in many areas of originality. Namely: fuse panel block and silkscreen, no manufacturer logo(PE DIV), wire colors, terminal ends, connectors, ignition plug clips, fusible link junction insulators and sleeves, lamp sockets, wire lengths, etc. For example, many reproduction 1967 engine harnesses have a voltage regulator ground wire which is 1" too short. Very frustrating. Every one I use has to be extended. Example HERE.

For the record, many varieties of NOS GM Service Replacement harnesses are deficient as they have many differences from original assembly line parts.

Rich
ps Today I ran power-up bench tests on all lamps and most circuits including radio, ACC/IGN/CRANK, Headlight Up/DN, etc. I plan to plug a directional switch in and a rear harness mockup with fuel sender to test gauges as well. I'll try to test every circuit before installation.

I did find a few lamp issues and corrected them. Glad it was on the bench and not in the car.

[Geoff C.]

Re: 1967 Fuse Panel Housing and Bulkhead Connector Block Replacement

You are certainly following the original mantra of the organization to the utmost degree. Some of your criteria is easily explained and others arguable.


Manufacturing any item using another companies registered trademark or logo, such as Packard Electric Division requires legal permission to use that intellectual property. No matter how said permission is stated, it is simply a royalty of dollars and cents in additional expense. Me thinks that the obscure difficult to view location of the approximate 1/8” tall PED logo upon the fuse box coupled with the additional expense over ruled their consideration for inclusion.


Other than a judge, kneeling on the ground and literally crawling under the dash with a flashlight, I cannot think of another compelling reason to include such initials in this reproduction. Not everyone has the same view; but apparently very few do or someone would fill that demand and reap the rewards – if there are such. I would not decline to purchase a Corvette because it lacked that detail, but I’m not chasing a point or fraction thereof.


I sincerely doubt that all 1967 fuse boxes or air cleaner lids or oil filter canisters were silkscreened with the same respective tools. Nor were they all produced at the same time by the same individual using the same batch of ink. The desire for such exactness in replication is not met in many places. Many of these hidden silk screen messages appear quite sloppy, and that does seem to be factory acceptable to the OEM. When I buy a loaf of bread, I know it’s bread – but it’s not exactly the same from slice to slice or loaf to loaf.

Colors are an interesting challenge. There are just so many variables that cause a color to change over 49 or 50 years. When one considers the number of miles of wires (probably thousands) that PED used in production, the metric of hue, value or density of color are an interesting parameter to quantify. Even different people see colors differently. An interesting challenge would be to ask someone to define Red, Yellow, Blue, etc. Personally I wonder if there was a Pantone color value that was used by PED for exacting wire color.


The reproduction harnesses that I have seen and use have PED terminals predominantly and their connectors as well. Some connectors are molded in various colors. And very early models have translucent yellowed connectors – but I don’t know anyone who molds that old type “plastic”. It does seem brittle & cloudy from oxidation. The exactness required by some obviously requires reuse of that old original part. The adage: it only original once applies. And reusing an original part from another vintage vehicle, stretches the definition of it only original once.


Truthfully, I have never heard of a complaint concerning a lamp socket in the 6,000+ different harnesses that we have shipped. But I don’t source from every such manufacturer. Your other comments are too obscure for me to understand the variation. If I kept on getting the same wire too short and upon alerting the manufacturer they did not rectify the problem, perhaps it would be prudent to change suppliers and publically identify the supplier.

I will not defend or promote the manufacturers of these harnesses not meeting the exact cosmetic requirements of a few users. Some folk are merely attempting to exactly recreate the past. However, not even the counterfeiters of the US currency are able to do that with 100 percent reliability. Others are happy to be able to reliably drive their pride joy, rather than push them in and out of a trailer to achieve an award.


Methinks the organizations new classification to judge other Corvettes in a different manner reflects the obvious conclusion: there are fewer & fewer models as well as owners available for such infinite picayune cosmetic evaluation. As we all age gracefully, there does seem to be fewer & fewer youngsters in the mix – and that assessments is merely based upon the club photos published of the award recipients.

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Fuse Panel Housing and Bulkhead Connector Block Replacement

Before I posted this "repair" thread, I knew there would be differing opinions on the subject. I welcome this discussion. I always lean towards replacing old wiring with new but there are cases where I do not. It may be considered picayune but for some, this accuracy is a requirement.

However, I am also a proponent of deviating from production wiring by adding electrical short protection on every pre 1967 Corvette. I often do this with brand new harnesses as well. 1967 was the first year for fusible links at the main feed from battery and several other circuits. I typically add protection at the Main feed power circuit and at the Ignition feed circuit. Some cars have burned due to dropping wrenches on horn relay buss bars and cut wires at distributor ignition shields. As a restorer, I often add these fuses with portability in mind by allowing them to be easily removed for judging. After the judging field experience, the owner can simply plug them back in for safer driving pleasure. See Attached below.

I didn't want to get in too much detail over the harness differences, but to be more clear regarding panel silk screens, on the one I changed, it was simply worn and unreadable. It was also damaged from prior years of using screwdrivers to replace fuses and broke the plastic separation flanges. However, the reproduction fuse panels do in fact have a noticeable silkscreen difference in their appearance. Judges DO in fact crawl under the dash and look at these things. They initially look for the PE DIV logo, deduct if not present then mark the sheet with NTP and move on.

The VR ground wire length issue is a different issue. I have also seen these as too short on NOS OEM GM service replacements, and in fact I have one now. It is very possible many were made and distributed years ago, then one was used as a platform for that manufacturers' reproductions. You have likely had this type of thing happen to you before.....A "bad sample".

As far as lamp sockets are concerned...... On my last 1967 restoration I used a reproduction Main harness. The original harness had black plastic dash indicator lamp sockets. The reproduction had metal sockets, except of course in the places for the 2 wire sockets. Some cars had plastic sockets, some had metal, based on time of build, early or late. Most judges don't know of this early/late variation. Not a major concern regarding type, but the reproduction metal lamp sockets were not made accurately. Many were loose and would fall out of the cluster holes... not a good thing on a midyear cluster. Most required rework by bending the spring tabs to keep tight. I discussed this with the supplier. No word if the manufacturer investigated.

As you can imagine, most users just fix the defects and move on. I suspect that if every customer complained about every issue seen on reproduction parts, suppliers would not be able to handle the load of calls. I try to give feedback when possible, but time constraints often interfere with follow up tasks.

For the record, I have used both LL and MH harnesses, and they both have some type of issue. I am glad that we have them available, ideal or not. There are many cases where original wiring is unusable and must be replaced.

Rich

[Frank D.]

Re: 1967 Fuse Panel Housing and Bulkhead Connector Block Replacement

One of the more tedious (and cramped) jobs on these cars Rich, fortunately we're both smaller guys and can get around under a dash fairly easily. I had to replace the connectors in my bulkhead last year before the Lakeland judging. I didn't want to have to get into crimping those Delphi connectors properly so I managed to remove each individual wire/connector; examine it for damage and clean it up, GENTLY expand the two metal 'keeper' tabs on each pin, and put it into the new plastic housing. The old housing had green corrosion, a missing mounting tab, wasn't holding two of the connectors firmly and NO foam gasket around it as seen in the before and after pics.

And you wonder why you have intermittent electrical problems...Lectric Limited advises against doing it this way and prefers to sell you a new harness...but with care, a proper pin removal tool, and, attention to detail; its doable... IIRC the previous owner of my split window told me the dash harness was replaced, I don't know if that included the fuse box or not....I'll have to break out my judging sheets to see how I fared in that area.

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Fuse Panel Housing and Bulkhead Connector Block Replacement

Frank,

Fortunately the work I did on the '67 was on a work table. The entire dash and cluster assembly was at arms reach. I had to do spot repairs on a few under the dash on many cars and tedious work. Our '63 had one bad twinlock pin and I was able to correct it.

You did a nice job changing the connector block on yours and saved it. It looked quite old though. Check for the PE DIV logo at the lower center of the fuse panel. BTW....It's upside down.

Rich

[Dereck S.]

Re: 1967 Fuse Panel Housing and Bulkhead Connector Block Replacement

Nice work Rich. I did this same job five years ago on my car. It had one broken ear on the connector block. I wanted to save the original fuse block with the PE DIV logo. I did the whole job while lying on my side under the dash. I did pull the seat out to make more room. I used a very narrow flat watch screw driver to push out each wire terminal retention tab. I was worried about potential electrical issues from my repair but I've never had a problem. It was definitely one of those jobs that tested one's memory. One terminal at a time until it was done. Likely 2 hours to complete. On a side note, while I was under the dash I noticed melt marks on the ignition switch clear plastic connector. The red power wire terminal had corrosion causing high resistance and heat. I replaced that terminal and found a used connector from a used harness. The three connector tabs that lock it into the ignition switch housing had been cut at some point to replace the switch. I feel fortunate that this didn't result in an under dash fire. I would urge everyone to check for this. I checked my friends car and we found the same problem. These original harnesses weren't made to last forever.
Dereck

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Fuse Panel Housing and Bulkhead Connector Block Replacement

Dereck,

I've felt your back pain.....Doing the swap of 16 Twin-Lock pins is hard enough on the bench. Doing in the car like you and Frank is even more tedious. I had the special tool to release the Twin-Lock connector pins and even with that it was tricky.

Rich

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Fuse Panel Housing and Bulkhead Connector Block Replacement

As a follow up to the infamous VR ground wire being too short.....

I just found a file photo of a '67 which has a engine/forward harness acquired from M&H about 4 years ago. Notice the length of the black ground wire reaching over the VR to the ground screw.

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Fuse Panel Housing and Bulkhead Connector Block Replacement

In order to accurately test the Bulkhead Block swap and 16 Twinlock connectors, I decided to create a complete bench test of the cluster and ALL functions of the electrical system using a spare used Forward Harness.

Years ago I restored a 1967 and saved the old marginal Forward harness. It's bulkhead connectors were cleaned and would work fine for test purposes. I clean all other connections and rewrapped several areas and brought it with me yesterday to my friend's shop.

I installed one pair of headlight bulbs into a HL bucket extension harness, along with a front park light. I had a few test bulb sockets I made up which I could move around to various receptacles to test other functions. I installed a HL Dimmer and flashers for directionals and Hazard lamps, and a microswitch for the Telltale lamp function. I also used a pre-tested old directional switch.

For source power I used a battery and a inline 15 Amp fuse directly attached to the + Post. These are the functions I tested. Most pass through the bulkhead connectors, which was main objective for this test contraption.

-Headlamp Motor Up/Down via dash rollup switch via test lamp
-Headlamps (with Dimmer Low/High, along with Dash HB indicator)
-Dash "LIGHTS" indicator (Telltale lamp)
-Park Brake/Pressure Differential Indicator Lamp
-Front Park Lamp
-Front Directionals (each side by moving the park lamp L to R)
-Hazard Lamps Switch function (on directional switch)
-Dash Directional/Hazard Indicator lamps
-Heater Fan (HIGH fan could be observed on the test lamp plugged into the blower plug)
-Temperature Sender wire (meter movement observed when hard grounded)
-Horn Relay and Horn wiring(simulated 'beep' with test lamp, by grounding Directional switch contact)
-Battery Gauge functionality(loads causing gauge movement)

It should be noted that in 1967 the Starter Solenoid 12G Purple source wire does NOT go through the Bulkhead connector as it did from 1963 to 1966. This is a separate wire from the Main harness with a stand-alone plug. I tested this function directly at that plug in the main harness while in CRANK/START. I also tested that IGN(12G Pink) had power during CRANK/START.

Problems were found which I was able to correct on the bench. This is what was found...

1- Bad #257 LIGHTS flasher bulb
2- Bad Park Brake Indicator bulb (Note this should be a #1816. It had a bad #1445 installed. The AMA spec is wrong specifying a #257)
3- Bad Headlamp Switch - This was intermittent. With the knob pulled out fully, headlamps went off. If I pushed the knob in slightly they worked. I removed the original 131 HL switch, opened it up and cleaned contacts which corrected the fault.

All of these faults were found easier on the bench versus in the car. In particular, the LIGHTS and BRAKE indicator bulbs are impossible to get at once cluster is installed so this was likely worth the entire task. Our backs and necks have been saved. We're planning to roll the table over to the car and connect the main harness to the rear harness(which is installed), via the Body Connector, and do a complete rear lamp test along with a dry/loose fuel sender to test the FUEL gauge function also. If all goes well the fully tested dash assembly will be installed as a complete unit later today.

Here are photos of the bench test mockup Forward harness(on floor) connected to the cluster/main panel. Not necessarily very pretty, but it certainly saved time later.

Rich

[Leif A.]

Re: 1967 Fuse Panel Housing and Bulkhead Connector Block Replacement

Great stuff, as always, Rich. Picture to show the short ground wire on a replacement harness...so easy for them to amend an otherwise terrific product.

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Fuse Panel Housing and Bulkhead Connector Block Replacement

Leif, Yes it's great we have them available in reproduction. That short ground wire is still a uncertainty in my mind. I see so many original harnesses and the length actually varies, some longer/shorter than others.

==
As a follow up to my testing, yesterday I completed all electrical tests by rolling the table alongside the car and connected the rear harness body plug to the Main harness and tested all rear lamps, directionals, hazard flashers, brake lamps, Park Brake switch and circuits. Everything worked. The electrical system is now pre-tested and complete.

We then installed the entire dash assembly to the car. I've never installed a complete dash with cluster, radio, etc before since I usually always work alone. It's quite bulky and heavy. We had 2 extra people handy and it took about 2 minutes to get in position, then a few more minutes to fasten to the cowl. We then installed the fuse panel and associated circuit assemblies like courtesy lamps, ground wire to crossbrace, etc.

It takes about a hour to drive to my friend's shop and I get there much later than he does in the morning due to traffic. Body drop is planned for today. We missed the window yesterday due to heavy T-Storms as we have to roll the body and chassis outside into the lift bays into a separate building.

If time permits, I may do a final test of all electrical body functions by connecting the battery to the source engine harness wires, via my main fuse, to the car and do a final test including headlight motors, heater blower speeds, wiper/washer functions, radio(with antenna for signal strength), etc. Since no engine will be there, I'll disconnect the TI Harness input wire to keep it disabled, this by simply unplugging the IGN wire plug to the TI harness.

I'll try to get a few shots of the chassis and body before their reunion and update end of day.

Rich

[Alan D.]

Re: 1967 Fuse Panel Housing and Bulkhead Connector Block Replacement

Here is an original set up on an April 67 car.