1962 Windshield assembly installation

[Dino L.]

I completed my windshield restoration and all went well with the help of some great NCRS members....thank you! the question how should I move forward, my thought is I should mount the windshield into the body with the rubber center gasket in place but without the shims, then mount the door posts in the bare doors, and check alignment and then slip the shims in as necessary to get the alignment correct....is that how it's done?

[Bruce B.]

Re: 1962 Windshield assembly installation

If you are going to use a hardtop I would recommend mount the windshield to fit the bolted down hardtop.
I usually start with 2 end shims at each end of the windshield.
Then check the door posts and adjust adjust them to meet the installed windshield.
If you then install a soft top the top frame can be adjusted.
I am no expert but I am sure others will provide more info.
Bruce B

[Richard M.]

Re: 1962 Windshield assembly installation

Yes as Bruce suggested, I usually start with 2. I cut slots where the 2 studs locate in the sides of all shims so I can add or remove as needed.

But one other suggestion....

It will be best to install the defroster bezels before you install the assembly to the car. You can do it later but much more tedious to trim out the holes and angle them into position.

ALso, if you're alone, you may want to install the washer nozzles and cowl vent hinged assembly before w/s as well. This way you can reach over the dash with one arm to hold things while the other is under the dash for tighten-up tasks.

Rich

[Frank D.]

Re: 1962 Windshield assembly installation

All good advice, I assume you've glued that front flap down into the windshield channel.
And, if you have original tabs on the pillars (not the reinforced kind) be gentle rocking the windshield back and forth while working it into position.

[Terry D.]

Re: 1962 Windshield assembly installation

Along with the defroster do the speaker before the windshield

[Jerry K.]

Re: 1962 Windshield assembly installation

I put a 1/4 inch bead of black (Dumb dumb) next to the rubber seal under the WS frame, flattened part under weather strip, be sure to have some under seal. I also put a 1/8 inch bead between WS frame and rubber seal. Put tape on studs to keep them free dumb dumb. String on studs will help line up the holes.

[Bob W.]

Re: 1962 Windshield assembly installation

This is all great advice as I will be doing this in the future thank you.

Bob

[Mike H.]

Re: 1962 Windshield assembly installation

Windshield looks great. Before you drop it in place make sure the vinyl is rounded at the edge where it drops into the windshield channel - not being rude - but it looks as though the vinyl at the edge has a crease up before it drops in. Any "uplift" in the vinyl can make the weatherstrip look funky on the interior. Make sure you heatform the vinyl at this edge and roll it into place. If you haven't heat formed it - take a piece of scrap and learn the melting point on the work bench not on the car. All of the above advise is accurate, but most importantly 3 people to install - 1 upside down and one on each side of the assembly will save your paint!

[Eric E.]

Re: 1962 Windshield assembly installation

This is all great advice as I will be doing this in the future thank you.

Bob

Thanks, I also have that on my list of future projects. If I remember correctly I read somewhere that it is critical to pre-fit the windshield assembly prior to body paint. Is there a document or guideline out there that has been made for ts to get the fit right?

[Richard M.]

Re: 1962 Windshield assembly installation

Thanks, I also have that on my list of future projects. If I remember correctly I read somewhere that it is critical to pre-fit the windshield assembly prior to body paint. Is there a document or guideline out there that has been made for ts to get the fit right?

Eric, There may have been discussions about test fitting post studs and T-bolts to holes in body but I've never had issues with fit on a C1 body unless there was major reconstruction of the nose/top surround and/or dash.

The most common fit issue on installation is the fit of the lower stainless trim spacing to the body. Usually it's close to the body at center and as it arcs outward towards the sides there is more gap to the body.This is common. You can fill with strip caulk or a non hardening sealer, but that can get messy later.

Rich

[Terry B.]

Re: 1962 Windshield assembly installation

Eric, There may have been discussions about test fitting post studs and T-bolts to holes in body but I've never had issues with fit on a C1 body unless there was major reconstruction of the nose/top surround and/or dash.

The most common fit issue on installation is the fit of the lower stainless trim spacing to the body. Usually it's close to the body at center and as it arcs outward towards the sides there is more gap to the body.This is common. You can fill with strip caulk or a non hardening sealer, but that can get messy later.

Rich

Anyone have an explanation for this common problem of the gap between the lower trim and the body? The trim fit perfectly before removal. And what corrective action can be taken? I'm sure the OP would appreciate some insight on this potential problem. And yes I would too.

[Bruce B.]

Re: 1962 Windshield assembly installation

Mike Hack,

Good to see you posting here.

Bruce B

[Richard M.]

Re: 1962 Windshield assembly installation

Windshield looks great. Before you drop it in place make sure the vinyl is rounded at the edge where it drops into the windshield channel - not being rude - but it looks as though the vinyl at the edge has a crease up before it drops in. Any "uplift" in the vinyl can make the weatherstrip look funky on the interior. Make sure you heatform the vinyl at this edge and roll it into place. If you haven't heat formed it - take a piece of scrap and learn the melting point on the work bench not on the car. All of the above advise is accurate, but most importantly 3 people to install - 1 upside down and one on each side of the assembly will save your paint!

Yes, Very good observation. Of the many Al Knoch dash pads I've done, there is a erratic build up of foam at the front edge of the pads. I usually carefully trim these rough edges as part of test fitting and before gluing the front lip the the windshield channel. If those rough edges remain, they can caused the lower windshield rubber to get bumps and wrinkles. I trim like this...

Anyone have an explanation for this common problem of the gap between the lower trim and the body? The trim fit perfectly before removal. And what corrective action can be taken? I'm sure the OP would appreciate some insight on this potential problem. And yes I would too.

Terry, I think it's common for most and even may have been common with original cars. It may be one of those "design features". However, it may be worsened by today's reproduction lower channel rubber seal, which may be thicker and stiffer. Originals may be softer and allowed the frame channel to compress better when snugging the T-bolts and post stud nuts. This would let the trim sit tighter to the body.

I've never considered using original seals to combat this issue as I see so many cars with different levels of "gaposis".

Rich

[Eric E.]

Re: 1962 Windshield assembly installation

Thanks Rich,
I had an nos pad a few years back. It would have been interesting to see what the foam edge looked like "back in the day".

[Frank D.]

Re: 1962 Windshield assembly installation

Anyone have an explanation for this common problem of the gap between the lower trim and the body? The trim fit perfectly before removal. And what corrective action can be taken? I'm sure the OP would appreciate some insight on this potential problem. And yes I would too.

I installed the windshield frame on my '61 (a first timer) and was pretty amazed at how the lower gap, stainless-to-body looked. So tight as to look seamless; over about 5 years of vigorous driving the gap widened inexplicably. I did several exercises of rolling under the dash to tighten the T-bolts and it was no help. I could close the gap (temporarily) by laying a piece of wooden 2x4 on the windshield at the top of the stainless and tapping the trim piece back down.

Eventually, I just sucked it up and applied black butyl along the gap crammed into place with a popsicle stick. It didn't look awful but nothing like the original tight fit. That seemed to stabilize the gap. The picture shows how the gap eventually widened before I sealed it with the butyl.

A long-winded way of saying that I don't know if there is a real, permanent cure for the problem....on a 'driven' car..