Good "Street" Alignment for a '65 396 Convertible

[James W.]

I am looking for a good front and rear suspension "street" alignment specifications for a 1965 Corvette convertible equipped with a 396 engine and standard suspension.


Thanks,

James West

[Gene M.]

Re: Good "Street" Alignment for a '65 396 Convertible

I am looking for a good front and rear suspension "street" alignment specifications for a 1965 Corvette convertible equipped with a 396 engine and standard suspension.


Thanks,

James West

James, it makes a difference if radials or bias ply tires

[James W.]

Re: Good "Street" Alignment for a '65 396 Convertible

James, it makes a difference if radials or bias ply tires

Gene,

At the present time it has a set of repro bias ply tires on the original steel wheels. Next summer it will most likely be switched over to a set of radials on repro knock offs. I'd be interested in both if someone has the specs.


Thanks,

James

[Ed S.]

Re: Good "Street" Alignment for a '65 396 Convertible

James,

I have a '64 convert w/o PS. Had it aligned to factory specs with bias plys on it. It handled ok, considering that I had bias plys on it. A few months later I put a set of Classic radials on but did not change the suspension geometry. Above 45 MPH the steering was very "darty", keeping in in a straight line at 60 MPH was difficult. I had it aligned for radials - Perfect. BTW I too have a set of aftermarket k/o wheels.

[Gene M.]

Re: Good "Street" Alignment for a '65 396 Convertible

I have 1/16" total toe front none to 1/4 degree camber in front and caster is difficult to get much at just under 2 degrees. The rear toe is between 0 and 1/16" total. Make sure the bearing clearance and yokes are "tight" as it will affect readings. I prefer the rear camber at 0 for better tire wear and less stress on the bearings. This is with 70 series radials 205's in front and 215's out back.

[Duke W.]

Re: Good "Street" Alignment for a '65 396 Convertible

The only difference in alignment between bias and radials is toe. Since radials have longer contact patches and greater self-aligning torque, they need less toe.

For "touring" I recommend zero front camber, 1.5 degrees caster with manual steering, and as much as can be achieved with power steering, but you probably won't be able to get more than about 2 0 degrees.

For the rear set camber at minus one half degree.

For bias tires shoot for the nominal toe-in spec in the CSM and AMA specs. For radials shoot for 1/16" total toe in, and, of course, at the rear it must be split evenly between the two rear wheels.

At the front the toe will always equalize when driving in a straight line, and if the tie rods are not properly set, even with toe in in the proper range, the steering wheel may be cocked off a few degrees either CW or CCW. In this case the tie rods will have to be "tweaked" and equal amount in opposite directions (shorten one and lengthen the other an equal amount) to center the steering wheel. If the steering wheel is only very slightly cocked you can usually center it by tweaking one tie rod an eighth to quarter turn and toe in will remain within reasonable tolerance of the nominal spec.

For "sport," set front and rear camber at minus one degree, everything else the same.

Duke

[James W.]

Re: Good "Street" Alignment for a '65 396 Convertible

Guys,

Thanks for your advice. Plan to get it in the shop next week.


James