'64 fuel tank placement / adjustment - NCRS Discussion Boards

'64 fuel tank placement / adjustment

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  • Jeff H.
    Expired
    • September 30, 1988
    • 53

    '64 fuel tank placement / adjustment

    Hello,
    After having my '64 conv. fully restored (with a reproduction frame), I've quickly noticed that the fuel tank filler neck is no longer centered in the deck lid opening. It appears to be about 1"forward of center. The filler neck has pulled the splash boot loose from the cover trim ring at the back of the opening, and the filler cap is so far forward it is difficult to remove. Obviously, the tank has to be moved rearward. Lateral centering is fine. Is there enough adjustment in the strap retaining system to allow relocation without removing the tank and supporting crossmember and redrilling the crossmember mounting holes rearward? Can the filler neck be "clocked" 180 degrees to help this? Has anyone else experienced this issue with a reproduction frame? Any other suggestions for a fix? Thanks.
    Jeff Hanson
  • Donald L.
    Very Frequent User
    • October 31, 1981
    • 140

    #2
    Re: '64 fuel tank placement / adjustment

    Filler neck will not change no matter what position you put it in. What frame? Is the body in the correct position? It can move front or back. Do you have new tank straps? If yes, they could be bent wrong where they are pulling the tank forward. Loosen the nuts and pry tank back. Put a wood wedge between the body and the tank before you retighten.

    Comment

    • Jeff H.
      Expired
      • September 30, 1988
      • 53

      #3
      Re: '64 fuel tank placement / adjustment

      Hi Don,
      Should there be enough "play" in the loosened tank strap hold-down system to wedge the tank rearward 1" WITHOUT relocating the tank support crossmember? I think the tank just sits on the crossmember with no positive locator. Is that correct? I really don't want to remove the crossmember and redrill its mounting holes on the rear rails. Will the anti-squeak strips under the tank allow the tank to be gently pried rearward without removal, or will they stick the tank in place (the strips are new)? The body to frame location looks fine in all locations, and according to the guys who set the body there was not a lot of fore-aft adjustment to be had in locating the body to the frame; so I don't think the solution is resetting the body on the frame. Thanks again for your advice!

      Comment

      • Don D.
        Expired
        • May 30, 2016
        • 28

        #4
        Re: '64 fuel tank placement / adjustment

        Originally posted by Jeff Hanson (13757)
        Hello,
        After having my '64 conv. fully restored (with a reproduction frame), I've quickly noticed that the fuel tank filler neck is no longer centered in the deck lid opening. It appears to be about 1"forward of center. The filler neck has pulled the splash boot loose from the cover trim ring at the back of the opening, and the filler cap is so far forward it is difficult to remove. Obviously, the tank has to be moved rearward. Lateral centering is fine. Is there enough adjustment in the strap retaining system to allow relocation without removing the tank and supporting crossmember and redrilling the crossmember mounting holes rearward? Can the filler neck be "clocked" 180 degrees to help this? Has anyone else experienced this issue with a reproduction frame? Any other suggestions for a fix? Thanks.
        Jeff Hanson
        Jeff, I edited my post after I reread your original. I am installing the tank in my 64 convertible this week. I have the original frame and the body is still removed. The forward lower part of the tank has a shoulder that "seats" against the front bolted-in crossmember, there is very little adjustment front to rear or side to side. The straps are nearly vertical at the rear of the tank when they hook to the rear crossmember and go over the top of the tank. My tank has approximately 1/2 - 1 inch of play from the shoulders on the bottom front of the tank to the rear of the straps as the attach to the frame. I can go home this evening and take pics of my original frame for comparison to yours. Don

        Comment

        • Alan D.
          Extremely Frequent Poster
          • December 31, 2004
          • 2024

          #5
          Re: '64 fuel tank placement / adjustment

          Here are some pictures (Mar64 car), not sure if they will help. The tank has been removed for cleaning and put back with new felt, car has never had a frame off. Tank lines up just fine.
          Attached Files

          Comment

          • Jim S.
            Extremely Frequent Poster
            • February 28, 1986
            • 1392

            #6
            Re: '64 fuel tank placement / adjustment

            Jeff.

            You didn't mention whether you replaced the tank or straps with new ones . if so this thread may help.

            As for me , the final solution was a crowbar and a re-moving and re-bending of my original straps to match the new tank.

            Jim

            Gas tank centering
            Last edited by Jim S.; September 19, 2016, 12:34 PM.

            Comment

            • Edward J.
              Extremely Frequent Poster
              • September 15, 2008
              • 6940

              #7
              Re: '64 fuel tank placement / adjustment

              Jeff, I have replaced quite a few mid year tanks and generally what happens is the reproduction tank the area where the straps go around the pinched weld area need to be be bent with a pair of pliers, at the point where your at if the car is all back together you can try and loosen the tank and try to push the tank you may get some movement. prying on the tank with anything may result in bending the sheet metal.
              New England chapter member, 63 Convert. 327/340- Chapter/Regional/national Top Flight, 72 coupe- chapter and regional Top Flight.

              Comment

              • Jeff H.
                Expired
                • September 30, 1988
                • 53

                #8
                Re: '64 fuel tank placement / adjustment

                Thanks to all of you who have offered ideas, advice and pictures for solving my tank location issue. Several of you asked about which parts are new (reproduction) or original. The frame is a reproduction. The tank is a reproduction. The filler neck, cap, straps and front support crossmember are original. The guy who restored my car says he believes the way to fix the problem is to relocate / redrill the 4 holes where the crossmember is attached to the rear rails. He feels the reproduction frame is incorrect in this area, but he hasn't actually compared the fore-aft dimensions between the old and new frames. I was hoping he could simply loosen the tank straps and nudge the tank rearward enough to center the neck in the deck lid opening. Thanks again, everyone!

                Comment

                • Larry M.
                  Extremely Frequent Poster
                  • December 31, 1991
                  • 2686

                  #9
                  Re: '64 fuel tank placement / adjustment

                  Originally posted by Jeff Hanson (13757)
                  Thanks to all of you who have offered ideas, advice and pictures for solving my tank location issue. Several of you asked about which parts are new (reproduction) or original. The frame is a reproduction. The tank is a reproduction. The filler neck, cap, straps and front support crossmember are original. The guy who restored my car says he believes the way to fix the problem is to relocate / redrill the 4 holes where the crossmember is attached to the rear rails. He feels the reproduction frame is incorrect in this area, but he hasn't actually compared the fore-aft dimensions between the old and new frames. I was hoping he could simply loosen the tank straps and nudge the tank rearward enough to center the neck in the deck lid opening. Thanks again, everyone!
                  Jeff:

                  Three things:

                  1. For the OLA reproduction tanks you need to bend the indents/notches in the tank over more to provide for more clearance and adjustment range with the straps.

                  2. I blocked my tank to the forward fiberglass bulkhead with wood shims before trying to tighten the straps. This prevented the tank from moving forward and made the straps deform more to hold the correct position.

                  3. I found that the C3 rubber boot is a bit larger in diameter and covers misalignment better than the smaller C2 rubber boot. You can't tell one from the other when installed. I bought two NOS C2 rubber boots for my 1967 car (and a spare) and wound up installing a NOS C3 boot instead. A lot more room to maneuver.

                  FWIW.

                  Larry

                  Comment

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