My '66 L79 327/350 has had an annoying ignition switch since the day I picked it up over 18yrs ago. The car stays running when the key is left in the Start position. The ignition lock / cylinder does not seem to 'spring' it out of Start position and into the Run position w/o my help. The motor begins to die when I move the key to the Run position. I took out the lock and ignition switch to see if I could see any broken parts, missing springs, etc., but can't find anything missing. The metal part of the switch appears very 'boogered up' - like someone took a hacksaw to it to make it fit. The opening for the switch on the dash has one flat side near the Run/Start position. The switch has two flat sides around the threads and when I attempted to put it back into position there seemed to be a minimal amount of threading available for the brushed chrome nut to grap onto. I'm seriously wondering if the switch is for a different car / year / model. The mystery is that I have several original-like octagonal keys that fit the ignition lock. One of the octagonal keys has the knockout portion missing. My door locks are different, however. I need to use an after market round key for the doors. The original looking round key has the knockout portion missing but will only open the spare tire cover's lock. No other after market round key fits the spare tire cover's lock.
Can I replace the ignition switch and use the ignition lock - the same one which fits the original like keys with the knockout's removed - or do I have to replace the lock and have the tumblers adjusted to fit my keys? I would also like to make the door locks the same as the ignition lock. Any advice going forward?
Can I replace the ignition switch and use the ignition lock - the same one which fits the original like keys with the knockout's removed - or do I have to replace the lock and have the tumblers adjusted to fit my keys? I would also like to make the door locks the same as the ignition lock. Any advice going forward?
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