Help!

[Ed H.]

Car in question:



1970

I have two engine questions - this is the original engine to the car:

The harmonic balancer is 46 years old - is it better to replace or have it serviced? Suggestions for vendors in either case.

I'm disassembling the engine, and not a neophyte at the task, but, for the life of me, I've been unable to get the caps to separate from the rod. Suggestions, again, are welcome.

Thank you!

Ed

[Patrick H.]

Re: Help!

Some of the vendors who service the balancers do an excellent job. I guess it depends how fast you need one, and how original you want to be. There are some new replacements that are relatively inexpensive, but of course no guarantee on quality or county of origin.

If it were me, and no hurry, I'd probably just have the original serviced.

[Justin S.]

Re: Help!

Ed, I've had success using a brass drift and hammer to drive the rod bolts out. The caps should come off easily after that

[Joe L.]

Re: Help!

Car in question:



1970

I have two engine questions - this is the original engine to the car:

The harmonic balancer is 46 years old - is it better to replace or have it serviced? Suggestions for vendors in either case.

I'm disassembling the engine, and not a neophyte at the task, but, for the life of me, I've been unable to get the caps to separate from the rod. Suggestions, again, are welcome.

Thank you!

Ed

Ed------

Damper Doctor in Redding, CA is THE source for damper rebuilding.

I've always removed the rod caps by striking the little "tab" on the cap with a brass drift.

[Ed H.]

Re: Help!

Thank you gents!

Not in a hurry, so I'll send the damper off to Damper Doctor.

Joe, not being in a position to look right now, the tabs don't seem to be in a position to be easy to tap 'up'. What am I missing?

Justin, I confess to being a wee bit concerned that driving the bolts out will entail a redo on the rods? Is this a misplaced worry?

Thank you all, again.

[Joe L.]

Re: Help!

Thank you gents!

Not in a hurry, so I'll send the damper off to Damper Doctor.

Joe, not being in a position to look right now, the tabs don't seem to be in a position to be easy to tap 'up'. What am I missing?

Justin, I confess to being a wee bit concerned that driving the bolts out will entail a redo on the rods? Is this a misplaced worry?

Thank you all, again.

Ed------


No, you won't be able to tap "up" on the tabs. Are you rebuilding this engine while it's in the car rather than on an engine stand? If so, you might try tapping "side-to-side" on the caps. I've never had much trouble removing the caps, even with the engine in the car.

If rod bolts are removed I like to have the rods re-sized. It might not be absolutely necessary but I would not feel comfortable without doing it. Of course, I would always replace the rod bolts with ARP bolts at the same time and this always requires re-sizing.

[Justin S.]

Re: Help!

Second that

[Ed H.]

Re: Help!

Thanks again for your helpful comments. Engine is on a stand - I may be stupid, but not crazy! ;-)



It's mostly driving me crazy because I've done all this before, and don't have any recollection of it being such a hassle. I should have time to argue with it tomorrow, I'll let you know if I make progress.