Re: Rich Mozetta - or anyone - help with interior install sequence
Looks great too....Nice job.
Looks great too....Nice job.
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Mike Andresen
Bloomington, ILComment
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Re: Rich Mozetta - or anyone - help with interior install sequence
i can't make a install list but I can point out the mistakes that were made on my car;
Side vents screws can not be installed with the heater box in place on the right and the fuse block on the left.
So be sure they are installed first. Some debate in the past if this is best policy to screw the vent panels down because if they ever require removing you cant get at the back screws. I would put the screws in. They had been installed on my car, for 50 years, with no issues!
Be sure the blinker bulbs are used in the correct spots on the dash cluster, the E-brake and headlight warnings.
I could not get the heater motor speed control wiring attached with the radio installed. Be sure it's plugged in before the radio.
If you have a radio the Capacitors behind the dash are installed before the dash is installed. They are screwed down and then the tin brackets bent up out of the way. Impossible (for me anyway) to get the capacitors in after the dash is installed.
Don't forget the clip that retains the radio antenna wire to the framework above the cluster. Easier to install before the cluster but can be accessed anytime.
Don't attach the oil pressure gauge before the e-brake is installed on the pre-66 cars. The oil line goes through a hole in the bracket.
When you drive the pin that retains the cable to the e-brake mechanism confirm the handle isn't upside down!
As everyone has cautioned, don't work on the glove box light or cigarette lighter with the battery connected, as they are not fused.
Add a breaker between the wire that powers the car and the harness before attaching the wire permanently. These are the cheap ones used for stereo installations. 40A works great. Not the batter post connection but the smaller one at the starter that powers everything but the starter motor.
Purchase a book LED light like this one. The batteries last for days. A headlight on your forehead is in the way all the time. They work great. Can be clipped on to almost anything and the head moved around so you can get the light in the perfect position. One of my favorite under the dash tools.
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Re: Rich Mozetta - or anyone - help with interior install sequence
Guys just asking for help again for the same question. Does anyone have a similar process that I could use to check the gauges and dash lights for a 69 that I'm restoring? Trying to make sure everything works before assembly. Also, is the installation sequence different for a 69 from the one outlined above for the C2s? Thanks for your assistance.
MikeComment
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Re: Rich Mozetta - or anyone - help with interior install sequence
Mike, I've not done this on a C3 but to test the cluster, lamps and gauges "on the bench" you would have to power it up from a fused battery source. You would have to connect all harnesses(engine, rear) and switches(headlight, directional etc), bulbs, etc to thoroughly test everything. I'ts likely quite a undertaking...... but possible.
Here is a link to what's involved to do a bench test on the C2....
Testing the gauges is a entirely separate challenge. You'd have to connect fuel sender, temp sender(heated in water, or just ground it to see full needle deflection) to check. BATTERY gauge can be tested by itself using a 1.5v battery (briefly)across the input terminals, both polarities, to check movement. Speedo and tach maybe with a drill, but no calibration accuracy. Oil gauge...??
As far as the dash items install sequence, I'd have to defer that to others more familiar with the C3.
RichComment
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Re: Rich Mozetta - or anyone - help with interior install sequence
Thanks Rich. After a hectic holiday season I'm getting ready to install the dash finally. I'm not worried about the rest of the harness, really only worried about the dash bulbs. All the gauges were restored and tested by the restorer so I know (famous last words!) the gauges work. The rest of the bulbs/connections (rear, engine, etc.) I can get to without much difficulty. I just don't want a bad bulb that requires I take the whole dash out to replace. Is there an easy way you can think of that I could just test the dash bulbs? Can I just put a 12V source onto the fuse panel for inst lights and go from there? I just don't want to melt anything.
Also, I'm thinking of connecting the harness to instrument panel and the center dash gauges prior to install. As far as the dash install is concerned, can I attach the center section with the gauges to the instrument panel housing prior to install and then install them as a unit? That would really make this much easier if that is possible. As always, thanks for the help.
MikeComment
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Re: Rich Mozetta - or anyone - help with interior install sequence
I used to work in a department called "The Reliability Department".
We dealt with such things on a regular basis.
So you know the "Military Grade" light bulbs were just a standard bulbs that had been burned in.
What that means is the bulb had been lit for so many hours.
This procedure was designed to eliminate what was know in the industry as "Infant Mortality".
The is a fancy way of saying, If it worked for so many hours it will likely continue to work.
So connecting the lighting circuit to a battery and running the lights for a day or so should give you the best chance of having no issues with early burn out in the dash. If possible I would use USA manufactured bulbs if I could find them.
Best of luck.
RickComment
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