I have owned the car for 25 years and have recently re-built the carb and alternator, changed the gas filter, battery and voltage regulator and added lead substitute to the tank, but still the motor turns off while driving. It starts back up immediately, but this could happen 3 or more times during a 15 minute drive, Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
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Re: '66 327/300 motor turn off while driving
Pull the bulk head wirring harnes apart on the engine side and clean the pins especially the red wire. -
Re: '66 327/300 motor turn off while driving
Had similar problem on my 65. The inside portion of the bulkhead connector was separating as the old plastic prongs were deforming so as to not hold the 2 halves together. I used a piece of a popsicle stick jammed into the prongs to hold it tight!Comment
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Re: '66 327/300 motor turn off while driving
Thanks, Keith. I will try that. Really appreciate it.Comment
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Re: '66 327/300 motor turn off while driving
Yes, sounds like the "big red wire" symptom. If you're lucky your bulkhead connectors just have nasty green corrosion and you will need to clean things up and that will fix you up. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY FIRST. My '63 connectors had one of the tabs securing the firewall side harness plug to the bulkhead piece and gave me the same symptom. Lectric Limited sells the repair kit and it was a nerve-wracking two hours to 'repin' a new housing in that spot and that fixed me up...Comment
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Re: '66 327/300 motor turn off while driving
The bulkhead connector is always a prime suspect with your stated problem, but in a recent, lengthy thread with the same problem, the culprit turned out to be vapor lock.
The owner solved the problem by insulating the fuel pipe in the engine compartment area.
DukeComment
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Re: '66 327/300 motor turn off while driving
Yes, many recent issues with vapor lock. I recently experienced it on a 427 and I've heard of many others lately.....
The easiest way to test that in a stalled/stopped condition is to remove the air cleaner lid and blip the throttle a few times and see if fuel is streaming out of the accelerator pump nozzles. Another good tool is to shoot your IR thermostat on the fuel line areas and see if there is a hot spot.
My first gut feel was also the bulkhead connector, but if it restarts immediately, I question that as suspect. Usually you have to open the hood, wiggle the bulkhead plugs, and it may fix it for a while.
When I suspect a intermittent electrical issue, I like to use my extra long clip leads and a Digital voltmeter. I attach the clip leads to the coil+ and ground, another set to the ballast resistor input, and I also sometimes connect leads to the ignition switch IGN input and output. I run the long leads into the passenger compartment, insulated for safety, and go for a ride. I'm then ready to connect them to my DVM.
When the car fails/dies, I then observe the meter voltages from the various testpoints to tell me what's missing. If all voltages are present, then the timing light comes out to see if spark is present on crank. If not, the coil may be suspect.
Robert, more information would help. What is the engine, HP, distibutor type(i.e. TI, stock points, MSD, Pertronix), is it a stock fuel system, if radio distributor ignition shielding is installed, etc, etc.
RichComment
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Re: '66 327/300 motor turn off while driving
On my 65 it would start right back as soon as I had coasted to shoulder, turned off key, and then turned key to restart. It was the inside bulkhead connector small tab not holding connector tight to engine compartment side. Used the popsicle piece of wood the push the male tab over a bit to hold tight in female bracket. Only took a momentary loss of continuity to cause engine to die.Last edited by Ken R.; July 25, 2016, 04:18 PM.Comment
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Re: '66 327/300 motor turn off while driving
Rich-Thanks for your insight. The engine is the original 327/300 with a TI distributor and stock Holley 4 barrel and points. All of shielding is installed. The car runs great except for this issue. I don't need to pull of the road; just push the clutch in and restart.Comment
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Re: '66 327/300 motor turn off while driving
Robert, Sorry, one confusion. You said "TI distributor".....then "points". Is it a stock TI system, using the original Delco amplifier module, or a modified system?
When you restart using the clutch, are you giving yourself a "rolling push start in gear"(no crank), or are you cranking the starter?
Certainly seems like the classic case of... "either fuel or electrical", so you'll have to start by determining which of the two is causing it, then go after that system once it's determined. There could be many factors but you'll need to get the car to tell you what's wrong. Sometimes best to "eliminate" one of the 2. I'd start by eliminating the easy one to check, by observation, fuel.
When the car shuts down, don't try the restart. Pull it over to a safe spot and test the fuel system. Pull the air cleaner lid and blip the throttle and look for a good solid stream of fuel from the front of the air horn from the accelerator pump nozzles.
If you have fuel, a good flow, not just dribbling out, then you can go after what I'd say is a "intermittent" electrical issue. But that will take some more specific and detailed tests.
If you don't have a good fuel flow, then we can go after those areas of suspicion....i.e fuel line restriction, fuel pump, carburetor, etc. I'd wager it's not vapor lock as you'd probably have to wait about for a 20 minute cooldown period with the hood raised to restart.
RichComment
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Re: '66 327/300 motor turn off while driving
Rich-Sorry for the confusion. It is the original set-up with points; no TI and not modified. When I restart, I push in the clutch and crank the starter and continue to drive until it happens again, usually within 5-10 minutes.
BobComment
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Re: '66 327/300 motor turn off while driving
Okay, I see. You'll still have to see if it's spark or fuel. Ideally, you want to get it so it stays broken so you can diagnose it. Intermittent issues are tough to find.
RichComment
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