Loctite, Anti-seize, Delectric, Lithium, etc

[Leif A.]

There always seems to be questions as which to use and where. I thought it would be interesting to start a thread (maybe sticky) where the answers would all be in one place. Please place your preference (including brand name) next to each item and feel free to add additional items and product you prefer. If there is no product needed, state so.

Intake bolts
Head bolts
Exhaust manifold studs
Exhaust manifold nuts
Carburetor studs
Carburetor nuts
Oil pan bolts
Connecting rod nuts
Timing chain cover bolts
Water pump bolts
Fuel pump bolts
Bell housing bolts to engine block
Transmission bolts to bell housing
Body mount bolts
U-bolt nuts
Rear end carrier bolts
Interior lip of radiator hoses and heater hoses
Add more...

[Gary B.]

Re: Loctite, Anti-seize, Delectric, Lithium, etc

Leif,

How about adding these to your list: locks (doors, tire lock), seat frame adjusting channels, main window regulators.

Gary

[Gene M.]

Re: Loctite, Anti-seize, Delectric, Lithium, etc

Leif
You realize the General used nothing in most cases.........

The rust that formed sorta locks things in place.

It was never intended for these car to still be around in the year 2016.

[Leif A.]

Re: Loctite, Anti-seize, Delectric, Lithium, etc

Leif,

How about adding these to your list: locks (doors, tire lock), seat frame adjusting channels, main window regulators.

Gary

Feel free to do so, Gary...great additions.

[Leif A.]

Re: Loctite, Anti-seize, Delectric, Lithium, etc

Leif
You realize the General used nothing in most cases.........

The rust that formed sorta locks things in place.

It was never intended for these car to still be around in the year 2016.

Understood, Gene. But, for everyone on this site who are restoring their 'vettes these many years on, it would be nice to have them a bit easier to work on in the future with modern chemicals holding, sealing, lubricating, etc.

[Duke W.]

Re: Loctite, Anti-seize, Delectric, Lithium, etc

Conn. rod bolts should be oiled according to the Chevrolet Power Manual.

As a general rule, anti-seize compound should be used for steel fasteners threaded into aluminum.

Anti-seize can also be used, optionally, on fasteners that are subject to corrosion, which would mean most chassis fasteners, but the way these cars are used, nowadays, corrosion is likely not an issue.

A very thin film of silicone grease on spark plug boots and coolant hose connections will help prevent them from seizing, and I use WD-40 on low voltage connections like the two cowl connectors.

Duke

[Gene M.]

Re: Loctite, Anti-seize, Delectric, Lithium, etc

Understood, Gene. But, for everyone on this site who are restoring their 'vettes these many years on, it would be nice to have them a bit easier to work on in the future with modern chemicals holding, sealing, lubricating, etc.

I only lube chassis hardware with never seize. If grease is required such as door latches and window slides I use red wheel bearing grease. It lasts for ever, stays put, and does not harden (in our life time). Lock tight stays on the shelf, never use it on the vettes. I don't teflon threads as it always shows. No silicon sealant as paint does not stick on the engine. The old Indian glue works just fine and paint sticks to it. And where ever the lube will show as on hood latches I use the white lithium grease. I clean everything with prep sol, brake cleaner or carb spray depending on the surface. As my 65 is driven I clean the engine with a rag and Lysol cleaner which is great on removing grease. Wipe down on most of the car is with a rag and Maguire's detail spray. Maguire's #30 cleaner for tires and vinyl.

[Gary R.]

Re: Loctite, Anti-seize, Delectric, Lithium, etc

I can add areas I work on and the products used.

Steering Box - Ultra Gray or "The Right Stuff" seals, cover gasket, plug
High Temp Thread sealant- adjusting nut threads

Differentials - Ultra Gray RTV - cover gasket, seal OD's
Permasheild - Pinion yoke & pinion splines - coat each one let tack dry
Loctite #638 green- Axle bearing OD, Ring Gear ID
# 271 red - Ring Gear bolts- pinion lock nut
Permatex #2- drain plug- non stock part- I tap them in the housing

Trailing Arms - RTV- seal OD's
Loctite #271 red Inner shield ID

[Leif A.]

Re: Loctite, Anti-seize, Delectric, Lithium, etc

Gene, Gary, Duke,
These are the kind of answers I think many will be looking for...great to have all in one place...thanks for your participation. How about water jacket drain plugs?

[Gene M.]

Re: Loctite, Anti-seize, Delectric, Lithium, etc

Gene, Gary, Duke,
These are the kind of answers I think many will be looking for...great to have all in one place...thanks for your participation. How about water jacket drain plugs?

I use sealant for natural gas fittings.

[Duke W.]

Re: Loctite, Anti-seize, Delectric, Lithium, etc

...commonly called "pipe dope"... available at any hardware store... used to seal cold/hot water and steam NPT fittings, and it's probably okay for natural gas NPT fittings, but that's not an issue. It will seal without having to crank down on the fitting and keep them from seizing... a must for block drain plugs and heater hose nipples, especially when threaded into aluminum manifolds. Dissimilar metals in contact is a recipe for corrosion, and aluminum is the sacrificial material when in contact with ferrous metals.

I'm not aware of any torque specs for NPT fittings other than "tight enough not to leak". With pipe dope they just need to be "snug".

Duke

[Gary R.]

Re: Loctite, Anti-seize, Delectric, Lithium, etc

One thing to note about using Permatex High Temp Thread Sealant- it locks tight like a thread locker! I had to remove some sealed nuts and had to heat them first and use a breaker bar. I contact Permatex about it and was told it won't lock but it sure did == on every one I sealed.

[William F.]

Re: Loctite, Anti-seize, Delectric, Lithium, etc

Only thing about anti-seize on "steel to aluminum". It will change torque specs and you can easily pull the threads right out of an aluminum part. Did this once when using anti-seize on the screws to attach holley carb throttle body to main carb body.

[John D.]

Re: Loctite, Anti-seize, Delectric, Lithium, etc

Here are a few of my favorite's that I use on fuel injections.

Hi-Pressure pump seals and FI distributor seals: Permatex #3 Also on the FI pump seals one can use Loctite 609

Fuel inlet fittings: Loctite 545. One of the best Loctites there is.
My siphon breaker kits for 57 to 62 have fittings: Loctite 545
Brass T fitting on top of main diaphragm cover: Loctite 545. Once in a while I might use Loctite 290
Choke butter brass screws to choke shaft: Loctite 290.
63 to 65 spider supply lines (actually one line is the supply line and the other is the return line: Loctite 545. Applied with a generic Q-tip on the brass ferrel only.
Vacuum fittings: I mostly use Loctite 545. It's a hydraulic sealant. Shake it before using. Has a long shelf life.
Intake manifold studs. Once in a while I will use Loctite 271. But you better work fast as it sets up immediately.
Intake manifold (base Plate) fittings: Loctite 545
I never use teflon tape for anything.
Chrome fuel lines: A little bit of 545 on the ferrel of the line. Don't get any inside the line for sure. Waste of time putting it on the threads.
If you are using SS brake lines that typically leak at the SS fittings: Try 545 and the leak will go away. Allow curing time.
Temperature sending units. We talk about that hear often. Not supposed to use anything. But I do. Loctite 290. Just a little bit.
The anti-siphon valve in the fuel meter. Used to use Loctite 271 until Gail Parsons machinist told me to use Loctite 609.
Installing the hi-pressure pump shafts in the pump. After deburring the shaft where goes thru the seal I don't use anything at all on the shaft except for this. I dip the shaft in light weight oil. Nothing else.
John D.

[Leif A.]

Re: Loctite, Anti-seize, Delectric, Lithium, etc

Great information John...thanks for helping build this knowledge base.