Midyear glove box switch & lamp

[Jeff S.]

My existing switch is an older repro, probably circa 1998. It has failed & in doing so, cleared the 15A fuse supporting courtesy lights, etc. Is there a recommended source for a decent functioning replacement? Or, are they all the same component; off-shore flimsy junk?

The recommended mini-bulb is #1893. I found one in my stash of olde' stuff, but this 1893 bulb is globe shaped, rather than cylindrical and thus would never accommodate the heat shield which I believe to be OEM. My existing bulb is #1892. 1892 spec is .12A, while 1893 is .33A. Supposing that I could use either; the existing 1892 has worked for decades until today.

Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks,

Jeff

[Harry S.]

Re: Midyear glove box switch & lamp

Jeff, all the parts houses have the same junk. As I recall the switch for 1966 is the same as the passenger car. Check with the Colorado Judging Chairman, Jack Humphries, as he may have a few. He has many items up on eBay.

[Bob R.]

Re: Midyear glove box switch & lamp

The skinny bulb is for late 63 with the shade on the bulb and the round bulb is early 63 which did not have the shade.

[Joe R.]

Re: Midyear glove box switch & lamp

My existing switch is an older repro, probably circa 1998. It has failed & in doing so, cleared the 15A fuse supporting courtesy lights, etc.

Jeff

Hi Jeff,

I am thinking you may have bigger problems. Hopefully, I am wrong! Anyhow, I don't see how a bad switch could cause a fuse to blow. The switch is in series between the power source and the light bulb. When the switch is open circuit, no current flows and the light is off. When the switch is closed (short circuit), current flows and the light is on. If the switch fails open, the light never comes on. If it fails shorted, the light is always on. This could cause a discharged battery. So, either way the switch can't cause excessive current to flow. Maybe the bulb might momentarily draw some extra current when it fails, but I don't think that would blow the fuse either. What were you doing when the fuse blew? Maybe disconnect the battery, put your Ohmmeter between the fuse for this circuit and ground. How many Ohms do you see?

Joe

[Larry M.]

Re: Midyear glove box switch & lamp

Once you find your issue, if you still need a switch, they definitely come up on ebay. If it doesn't look good in the pics then don't buy it. Many are very corroded. And they can be pricey. I paid $30 for a correct 63/64 version in top shape with the black orange stripe lead. Your lead may be orange...don't know.

[John D.]

Re: Midyear glove box switch & lamp

Then there is a thing about 63's that the shade must point a certain direction.

[Leif A.]

Re: Midyear glove box switch & lamp

Then there is a thing about 63's that the shade must point a certain direction.

John,
We know those union line workers were very precise about how they attached that little shade to be sure it pointed down in the correct orientation...hahaha

[Harry S.]

Re: Midyear glove box switch & lamp

Jeff, the wire to the switch is always hot. You may have caused a short/spark and that's what took out the fuse. That's why you disconnect the battery when you play with the glove box.

Cheers

[Jeff S.]

Re: Midyear glove box switch & lamp

My car is a '66; it has an 1892 (.12A) bulb with shield. Perhaps I can find the correct 1893 (.33A) bulb in 'skinny' cylindrical configuration in order to use the shield. I likely caused a short-to-ground while adjusting the door latch/striker. The metal switch housing was loose on one side due to the melted plastic barb breaking & loosening the barrel of the switch. I know well that that "orange" is hot; my mistake not to open the battery disconnect prior to fussing with what I thought would be a 5 minute job. Thanks for the replies.

Jeff