1961 Windshield frame,proper fit, chrome

[Ted K.]

I purchased a 1961 which apparently had a new windshield installed at some time. The chrome molding across the bottom front does not fit properly. It was not as bad when I bought it but when I tightened the windshield frame attachment bolts it pulled the frame down where it is supposed to be and created a sizable gap between the chrome molding and the body. The chrome that should fit against the windshield rubber gasket is about a hald inch above it. Any ideas on how to get the chrome molding lined up over the windshield frame,
See two pictures.
The AIM is little to no help.
Thanks, Ted

[Frank D.]

Re: 1961 Windshield frame,proper fit, chrome

I hope you didn't crank down on the windshield T-bolts and the nuts on the bottom of each windshield pillar like it wa s a strong man's contest - no need for that...

First of all there are rubber shims that go at the rear of each side's windshield pillar bottom where they meet the body. Most cars take 2 or more...these are used to cant the windshield fore and aft. Did you look at those and ensure you have the proper number there ? (see red circle in AIM graphic below).

Second - those windshield pillar end pieces in original form had flimsy pot metal 'tabs' that are easily broken and allow the whole frame to 'rock' back and forth...like when you are latching soft/hard top, etc.. They could be broken. Unlatch the top and if you can grab the windshield header and rock the frame to and fro then those are shot. Several vendors offer to rework the pillars and replace the tabs with beefy steel stock so that will never happen again, (see picture below)

[Ted K.]

Re: 1961 Windshield frame,proper fit, chrome

Unfortunately I did not put the windshield in so I don't know about the shims, however the windshield seems pretty firm and does not rock or move. The big issue is the chrome trim that goes across the bottom of the frame. How is it attached? Can I just pry it off and then replace it in its proper position. It doesn't seem to want to pry off without damaging it.

[Richard M.]

Re: 1961 Windshield frame,proper fit, chrome

I have a suspicion, and the reason the installer didn't tighten the frame down........is that the installer did NOT install the trim in the lower channel before attaching the assembly to the glass.

If that is the case, the entire frame and glass must be disassembled and reassembled. Many first time installers assume the trim is installed AFTER frame/glass assembly. It is not. The stainless must be installed in the lower channel first.

Attached is a document that may help understand the process. I'm afraid you have a major task ahead.

[Frank D.]

Re: 1961 Windshield frame,proper fit, chrome

I think that's a pretty good summation. On second look it appears the whole concave windshield frame molding is lifted from the body channel and its not just your stainless somewhat displaced. Its a 'do over'....

[Ted K.]

Re: 1961 Windshield frame,proper fit, chrome

Really good information, but not what I wanted to hear. Is the bottom chrome/stainless molding attached in some way to the windshield frame or is it just held in place by the two windshield posts and the rubber gasket? I'm thinking it could be pried off with a great deal of care and then popped back in place if there are no attaching screws,etc.. Anyone?
Thanks

[Richard M.]

Re: 1961 Windshield frame,proper fit, chrome

Ted, No fasteners hold the stainless reveal to the lower frame channel. It snaps into the channel. Then, and only then, can the glass, with rubber attached, be mated with the assembly.

Here is a closeup image from the ST-12 Service Manual of the cross section of the frame and trim. As you can see, the inner lip of the trim(highlighted in blue) fits under the rubber channel. It has to be assembled this way. Sorry for the bad news. It's unfortunate it was done wrong.

[Rod K.]

Re: 1961 Windshield frame,proper fit, chrome

Don't try to remove the trim from the channel on the car. You'll destroy it. The upper edge of the trim is folded over to form a channel in the trim that the other channel fits into (too many "channels"). The hidden leg extends about 7/16" down behind the heavier channel before it forms a lip that goes under the edge of the W/S gasket/glass, hence trapping the channel/trim assy and holding it in place. The only way I can see to correct your situation is as Rich and Frank suggest and that is to remove the whole assy, pull the end posts and the lower channel off and reinstall the trim correctly. Once apart, the trim goes on fairly easily (I say this having done it too many times recently for various reasons). Just start the trim over the edge of the channel, being sure it is centered lengthwise, and tap carefully with a plastic hammer or by hand onto the edge of the channel until it is firmly seated in place. Just be very careful with the trim as it can be bent easily. Check your gasket to be sure it's fitting properly along the edge where the lower trim goes, then reinstall the lower channel/trim assy, the end posts and back on the car. Rich's .pdf will provide a wealth of visual and written information to help you. It's not a bad job at all. Best of luck.

P.S. Before pulling the lower trim and end posts from the windshield, put some masking tape on the glass near the ends of the lower trim and mark the exact end points of the trim so you have a reference point when reinstalling the lower channel to be sure its centered.

[Gary C.]

Re: 1961 Windshield frame,proper fit, chrome

If the windshield corner posts have been replated, often the plater fill in the trim grove channel. The trim grove channel can be recut with a die grinder if necessary.

Gary
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[Ted K.]

Re: 1961 Windshield frame,proper fit, chrome

So much for a quick fix on a driver quality car. Thanks for all for the great information it will definitely help me when I get into it.
Ted