1967 won't run after 30 minutes

[Bill L.]

Re: 1967 won't run after 30 minutes

Just some guesses on this one....

Is it 42 degrees timing all in??? Seems like a lot really ---my 66 big block here in Georgia is set to 12 degrees BTDC and 20 degrees at the points (total of 32 all in) and it fires and runs like a top even in the summer....and it keeps on running....and no pinging at all ---- 93 octane pump gas ---

I know this is a different engine but this is just a guess ---hey it is a big block right ??? mine is a 390 by the way ----

Second:

'67's have a ton of fusible links all through the wiring system.... I know these things are supposed to blow (complete fail) given certain conditions and once they do its "lights-out" and you have to replace that link or you go nowhere------ is it possible ---again just a guess that you have one of these little beasts making contact on start up and then failing after 20-30 minutes???

Again --- I know these are supposed to be either working or "failed" in nature ---

(Just a note -- Jack Humphrey in the Colorado chapter knows a ton about these links -----he posted some good info about them quite a while back....)


Hope you get it figured out soon!!

Regards
Bill

[Dino L.]

Re: 1967 won't run after 30 minutes

I have a 365 hp 327 with a 2818 Holley I had stumbling problems that I tried to solve for 2 years and 2 rebuilds. The solution was a ball check assembly for the accelerator pump, cracked casting. Once replaced problem solved... Stumbling at load was the symptom. A .$19 ball bearing and strip of metal made this restored car run awful!!! Check The small stuff.

[Ken R.]

Re: 1967 won't run after 30 minutes

"It runs beautiful. But, for some reason, you can be driving along at 55 or 60 and the engine will just quit. So, I turn the key off and then restart and amazingly it runs again. So, still trying to sort this one out."

I had this happen to my 65 a few times. It turned out the electric bulkhead connector under the driver side dash was loose. There are 2 I believe plastic clip-in or push-in holders that hold the inner and outer halfs together. Over time they had become loose. I ended up pushing them together and inserting a wooden piece of popsicle stick in to spread them apart and hold it in place. This kept the electrical connections together. You could be driving along just as you said; engine would die and you had to coast to roadside and then could turn key off and back on and engine would fire up just fine.

[Bill M.]

Re: 1967 won't run after 30 minutes

I had a 65 396 that would not run after 1/2 hour went nuts searching for problem turned out the vent on gas cap was clogged

[Lee B.]

Re: 1967 won't run after 30 minutes

So I though the problem was solved, but just like all the previous attempts, it fooled me again. Drove it to work and on the way home it started backfiring and stumbling. I will try the coil and check the gas cap as well this weekend. Start with the easy stuff. Then move on to the fusible links that were mentioned. My only concern is all the wiring is brand new. Complete frame off restoration about 2 years ago. Will keep searching and report back.

[Lee B.]

Re: 1967 won't run after 30 minutes

I took the car for a drive on Friday and it started acting up again. Same story. I changed the coil to a new one from NAPA and took it out Saturday. Same story. Drove great for 20 minutes or so and then started backfiring and sputtering. I pulled over and loosened the gas cap to see if there was a vacuum and it there was not. Didn't run any better after that. I guess I will check the plugs and start looking under the dash for loose connections. Will report back on the findings.

[Brian M.]

Re: 1967 won't run after 30 minutes

Change the condenser. JMHO

[Lee B.]

Re: 1967 won't run after 30 minutes

I have changed it several times. If in fact that is what it is, why would it keep going bad? I have changed it and the points 3 time in the last 6 months.

[Joe C.]

Re: 1967 won't run after 30 minutes

To eliminate the ignition switch, ballast resistor, bulkhead junction and all associated wiring, run a jumper between the pos batt terminal and the pos coil terminal. Disconnect it when you shut it off otherwise you'll burn your points. Combined with all you've done so far, this final step should completely eliminate the ignition system as the problem.

[Gene M.]

Re: 1967 won't run after 30 minutes

To eliminate the ignition switch, ballast resistor, bulkhead junction and all associated wiring, run a jumper between the pos batt terminal and the pos coil terminal. Disconnect it when you shut it off otherwise you'll burn your points. Combined with all you've done so far, this final step should completely eliminate the ignition system as the problem.

Also run a wire grounding the breaker plate to ground. Keep in mind the current flow has to be complete from positive to negative. ANY interruption will result in an open circuit. The wire between the coil and distributor is a common failure. There is constant flex as the advance operates. Was it replaced?

[Gene M.]

Re: 1967 won't run after 30 minutes

Gene,
See posts #11 & #12, which is why I didn't mention it again.

I see it was talked about. But too many times the restorers put so much paint on the engines and distributors the ground is poor at best. You and I both realize a good electrical connection is essential, and original product went out the door with little to no coverage thus not hindering electrical contact. Often the ground between the block and the frame is missing. Adding a dedicated ground for verification will just reinforce your suggestion, so the ignition could be shown good and eliminated as a source of problem.

[Lee B.]

Re: 1967 won't run after 30 minutes

Okay I will put a dedicated ground to the breaker plate, a wire from the pos battery terminal to the pos side of the coil. And give it a test drive. Will try to get done this week. Will report back with results. I have checked and all the ground straps are in place and look to be good grounds. I replaced one that was questionable. Anything else?

[Joe C.]

Re: 1967 won't run after 30 minutes

John Waggonner,
Please delete both of my posts in this thread. They have fallen on deaf ears.
Thank you.

[Lee B.]

Re: 1967 won't run after 30 minutes

John Waggonner,
Please delete both of my posts in this thread. They have fallen on deaf ears.
Thank you.

Joe,
I replaced the coil with a brand new one twice with no change. I changed the ballast out twicebwith new ones from Zip. I am going to try your last suggestion this week. Why do you think I am not listening? I appreciate the help and just want to figure this out.
Lee

[Lee B.]

Re: 1967 won't run after 30 minutes

Okay here is the deal, I hooked up a dedicated ground to the breaker plate and a wire from the positive to the coil. Drove it around and it drove great. I disconnected the ground wire to the breaker plate and it made no difference. Disconnected positive wire to the coil and the car cut off. Would not restart. Reconnected the pos wire to the coil and started right up. So my question is, what does this mean? And what do I test next? I am so happy, this is the first glimmer of hope in 2 years.