61 power windows

[John S.]

Passenger side power window is stuck in the full up position. When I press either the driver side or passenger side switch I can hear the motor trying but stalling trying to go down. Move the switch up and the window will try and go up even more. There is very slight movement in the window in either direction. Any ideas?

[Frank D.]

Re: 61 power windows

Stop running the power windows until the issue is fixed; you'll fry your motor.

You have more than likely run the window up past one or both window stops....or you have a bind in the thin stainless steel tube that runs along the horizontal window garnish; either one will jam up manual OR power windows. You may have to take the door apart to resolve it. The stops are the two rectangular silver-looking metal items along the top inner edge of the door in the first pic. There are two dime-sized round stops on each of those pieces; if you run the bottom of the window frame past one you'll get the symptoms you describe.

A typical binding spot for the metal garnish tubing is shown in the second pic.

[Mike E.]

Re: 61 power windows

Franks right on. I'm betting on the rear window stop. When the rubber cushion dries out and fractures, it allows the window up and over the stop. If you are able to ID where that is, you can often push the bottom of the window outboard while pulling the top of the door inboard, and then work the window down past the stop. You have to partially disassemble the door (remove the door panel) to replace the rubber on the stop.

[Richard M.]

Re: 61 power windows

Yes Frank has described the exact symptom of what usually causes the window to be stuck in the up position. This can happen with non-power windows as well. It's a poor design and too much force in the up direction can cause this problem.

There are small protrusions in the lower metal sash frame where the rubber stops are designed to contact the sash to stop the up travel. If the sash rises above the rubber stop, it gets jammed there and cannot move down. You can see the sash protrusions(bump-outs) here....
P5060008.jpgP5060009.jpg

You'll have to remove the door panel and inner garnish molding to access the adjustment plates. The rubber cups bay be broken or have fallen off of the threaded keepers. Once the garnish is off, loosen the Phillips screws holding the adjust plates to get the rubber stops away from the sash stop protrusions. You could instead try to grasp the upper inner door skin area and pull it inward(towards interior) to help release it while hitting the down button. But be careful when you do this.

Once you get it free bring the window down so you can work on the adjustment plates and rubber bumpers. This will be a trial-and-error process to get the stops adjusted properly.
dr-623_73.jpg

edit.....Mike and I were thinkin' and writin' at the same time.
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[John S.]

Re: 61 power windows

That's what I love about the tdb. Saw the responses from earlier went out to the car and fixed it immediately! Was really baffled earlier about it. This my bosses 61 270 hp car that I have committed to maintain for him. So now I get more experienced with C1 cars be side my C2s. Thank you guys for bailing me out.

[Richard M.]

Re: 61 power windows

Glad you figured it out John.....

So, did you tear it all apart or were you able to release it via the "pull-the-panel or push-the-glass" method?

Chances are it'll happen again if those rubber cups are gone or brittle, or if they're not adjusted properly.

Rich

[John S.]

Re: 61 power windows

Rich, I was able to release it. The stop bracket with the set screw and jam nut has slotted holes and was in the farthest position out (towards the cockpit). After lowering the window I moved it forward and tested numerous times. It looks to me like the rubber piece on the window is not that old. Car was frame off restored a number of years back so I believe it was taken care of then. Thank you guys for the help!
John