Distributor testing
Is there a test to determine if the distributor is good or not? It is on a 66 BB
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Re: Distributor testing
I assume you're getting no spark. First check for 12v at the coil pos terminal. Do you have points or electronic trigger. Do you have TI? The following applies to points.
If you have 12v at the coil pos terminal, then it make sure the points gap is set and the points are not dirty. Clean them by slipping a matchbook cover between them while applying slight pressure with your other hand. Do this several times if necessary. The "condenser" might be shorted. Try another one. There should be NO continuity between the pigtail and the case. Finally, the ground wire attached to the underside of the breaker plate might be broken. This is a fairly common situation. You can run a temporary test pigtail between the breaker plate, out the window, and to engine ground. -
Re: Distributor testing
Just could not get my points to work. I had power everywhere but could not produce spark at points, coil or plugs, it has to be electrical. As soon as I installed my pertronix III, my car started.Comment
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Re: Distributor testing
Sounds like you may have had a bad condenser. Its strange, over 20 years of messing with old cars and cant remember one condenser failure, in the last couple of years I've seen it over half a dozen times on multiple cars. I'm guessing the quality of these things is going down the toilet, I've seen some of the lesser brands be bad right out of the box and even good Echlin ones go bad in a matter of weeks. Typically, If I have power at the coil, good dwell readings a known good coil and still no spark I stop all diagnosis and replace the condenser, 9 times out of 10 the car will start right up.Comment
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Re: Distributor testing
That could be a possibility, I first use A condenser that was slightly used and then used a brand new one. It is strange that both were bad but possible. Lets talk about wiring, at the ballast I had a pink wire on top with the ignition wire at the bottom. There were 2 pink wires spliced together I assumed were part of the solenoid loop that connects to the coil positive and the top ballast. Doesn't that sound correct? I never understood about those 2 pink wires?Comment
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Re: Distributor testing
Harry,
That does not sound correct, at the resistor only single wires, one from the ignition switch and the other going to the coil positive where it's in union with the pink wire from the starter solenoid.Comment
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Re: Distributor testing
Harry-
A week or two ago you were asking about wiring for both stock and pertronix ignition. At that time it was pointed out that your car was not wired correctly. Sounds like it's still wrong.Comment
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Re: Distributor testing
Yes, my pertronix II had failed and I inquired about my existing wiring which was the pertronix red module wire which was spliced with the ignition wire and a jumper wire from the bottom of my ballast to the positive terminal at the coil. The black wire from the pertronix module connected at the negative terminal at the coil. The pink wire at the top of the ballast was connect to the loose pink wire That I assumed was from the solenoid. This was connected like this for 10 years. Then I tried to install my points. How do you recommend my wiring for points.Comment
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Re: Distributor testing
Sorry, I must have confused everyone when I was referring to the 2 pink wires when in reality my stock set up is as Timothy's describtion stated, 1 ignition wire at bottom of the resistor and the pink wire at the top of the resistor going to the positive coil where it is in union with the solenoid starter wire. I should have posted a picture.Comment
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