Re: Exhaust Manifold Stud Installation
Today's zinc-plated lock nuts also tend to gall stainless because zinc's friction is very high and they don't have a measured amount of lubricant on the deformed threads, (if they have any at all, which is probably not the case). The standard lock nuts GM used back then were cadmium plated, then dipped in wax, then tested to make sure they had consistent friction. Additionally, those were intended for low-friction un-plated carbon steel studs. It made for consistent tightening at low friction, what you need with a lock-nut.
Those nuts, if you could get them, (you can't) might not gall the stainless.
You are better off using doubled-up zinc plated normal nuts, as Tim suggested, or, alternatively use two brass ones. Anti-Seize is a good idea on both ends of the stud.
If you're going for max judging points, run a tap through the lock-nuts, use anti-seize, double them for normal use, and remove the outside one for the judging field.
Today's zinc-plated lock nuts also tend to gall stainless because zinc's friction is very high and they don't have a measured amount of lubricant on the deformed threads, (if they have any at all, which is probably not the case). The standard lock nuts GM used back then were cadmium plated, then dipped in wax, then tested to make sure they had consistent friction. Additionally, those were intended for low-friction un-plated carbon steel studs. It made for consistent tightening at low friction, what you need with a lock-nut.
Those nuts, if you could get them, (you can't) might not gall the stainless.
You are better off using doubled-up zinc plated normal nuts, as Tim suggested, or, alternatively use two brass ones. Anti-Seize is a good idea on both ends of the stud.
If you're going for max judging points, run a tap through the lock-nuts, use anti-seize, double them for normal use, and remove the outside one for the judging field.
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