C-1 Kick Panel

[Donald W.]

Looking to repair both kick panels that are damaged. Both have top back tips broken off and bottom rears where they tuck under the sill plates. Are these repairable with a fiberglass repair as the thickness is thin or should I look for replacements. Thanks for any ideas, Don.

[Richard M.]

Re: C-1 Kick Panel

Don, I like to repair originals. I have use replacement panels but they are very thick and difficult to install under the sill plates in the rear corners. The fiberglass is much thicker than originally used. I think their idea was to make it stronger, but this is a problem in this case.

It is tedious to repair originals, and to build up the rear corners is time consuming. It's important to get the proper profile for the long screw in that position.

I have some photos in this thread which will give you an idea of what can be done and the process I use. I have had good results with this method.

A complete sequence of the stripping and repairs here in pictures....link pages 6,7, & 8. I use resin and chopped matt and build the area up and locate the angle for the screw by test fitting in the car. Also keep in mind that the rear lower screw is long and is designed to screw into the floor steel wire covers. Use caution when drilling as the carpet can pull easily. I punch a hole in the carpet to prevent pulling the strands.

http://s684.photobucket.com/user/richmz/library/1959%20Restoration%20MT%204208/Interior/Interior%20Parts?sort=2&page=6

Finished pieces here....

http://s684.photobucket.com/user/richmz/library/1959%20Restoration%20MT%204208/Interior/Panels%20and%20Cluster%20painted

In the car here....Everything fit just like it was supposed to fit using all original panels.

http://s684.photobucket.com/user/richmz/library/1959%20Restoration%20MT%204208/Completed%20Interior%20and%20Exterior

Rich

[Terry D.]

Re: C-1 Kick Panel

On a friends 62 we used replacement kick panels and sanded them down. Much faster than trying to repair. Any good orbital sander will do, start with 100 grit then 150 and 220 to prep for primer and paint. Just a thought!

[Donald W.]

Re: C-1 Kick Panel

Thanks for the reply. I am missing the tips from the center of the hole on the tops back so I will have to make a mold to accommodate the shape of the tip. Bottoms are the same situation. The previous owner just yanked on these parts to remove them causing the damage!! What do I use as a mold. Do I cast something as a backer for the mix to set on and work from there that will not stick to the mixture? I was able to repair the heater cover on the right side where it connects to the RH kick as I found a donor piece with that area good. Thanks.

[Frank D.]

Re: C-1 Kick Panel

I put repro kick panels in my '61 about 7 years back and they went in just fine and I haven't even thought about it again until this thread. Recarpeted the interior a few months back and, again, no issues with them. The ones I used weren't all THAT bad IMO, but maybe I got lucky.

[Donald W.]

Re: C-1 Kick Panel

Thank you. I will investigate into the repops. Some items I get are not bad and other things are not good and I end up searching for original items to restore!

[Richard M.]

Re: C-1 Kick Panel

I put repro kick panels in my '61 about 7 years back and they went in just fine and I haven't even thought about it again until this thread. Recarpeted the interior a few months back and, again, no issues with them. The ones I used weren't all THAT bad IMO, but maybe I got lucky.

IMO the 61 & 62 is a little different when fitting because of the sill plates.

On 58-60, since they are stainless steel they are a bit harder to fit over the reproduction panels at the corners.They make the FG very thick and strong there probably because originals are so thin and delicate and often break. It's harder to fit the SS trim flap over them. It makes the flap stick out further and at a angle and is noticeable. I don't like the look of the finished area that way. Maybe I'm too picky.

These are photos of reproduction panels on a '59. Not the best close-ups but all I had. If you look closely you can see that the SS trim edge is actually riding above the panel corner edge rather than over the inside flat. Just the top corner is covering the panel. It sticks way up and out. It took a substantial amount of time for me to be satisfied with the appearance in this area. I ended up scratching the painted panels and had to touch up the panels and I wasn't too happy after that exercise.
PA290028.jpgPA290029.jpgPA290030.jpgPA290031.jpgPA290033.jpgPA290034.jpg

I've used several repro panel sets the last few 58-60 cars and they have had the same issues. The trim slides over the flat face of the panel corner when using originals. When using the repros, the trim just barely fits over it and isn't as nice as the original look to me.

These are original panels. Fit perfect in the corners. I need to do a little touch up but they fit properly going in.
PC180011.jpgPC180012.jpgPC180013.jpgPC180014.jpgPC180015.jpgPC180016.jpg

On 61-62, the sill is aluminum and is more flexible in this area. They can be more easily shaped and bent over the edge of the thicker panels and pushed flatter without the edge sticking out. That's probably why yours fit.

If they're sticking out a little just be careful if going bare-foot.

Rich

[Donald W.]

Re: C-1 Kick Panel

I am grateful again to everyone for the great photos and you expertise on this repair. I am always amazed of the level of knowledge you all apply to these problems. Don.

[Wayne L.]

Re: C-1 Kick Panel

Don-
I have a pair of originals that are pretty nice, except that there are holes cut in the center for speakers. Let me know if this is something you might be interested in.
Wayne

[Donald W.]

Re: C-1 Kick Panel

Hi Can you send a photo of them to our email?

[Wayne L.]

Re: C-1 Kick Panel

Don-
I will send some pictures by to your email.