C2. Engine Big block. 427/390. 1966.

[Keith W.]

Ok she starts up fine, on the button , I let her warm up and then take her out , travel about a 60 mile round trip not stopping, I pull up In front of the garage, switch off , lift the garage door go back to start her up and it kind of just turns over but after about 15 seconds splatters into life , it then ticks over fine.

next day I go to start her cold she cranks straight away.

Question
ive heard of vapour lock within the carb
starter getting too hot with side pipes

or is this what usally happens , all you veteran BB owners any guidance would be good

cheers Keith (cold England)

[Keith B.]

Re: C2. Engine Big block. 427/390. 1966.

Week battery or bad connections

[Joe L.]

Re: C2. Engine Big block. 427/390. 1966.

Ok she starts up fine, on the button , I let her warm up and then take her out , travel about a 60 mile round trip not stopping, I pull up In front of the garage, switch off , lift the garage door go back to start her up and it kind of just turns over but after about 15 seconds splatters into life , it then ticks over fine.

next day I go to start her cold she cranks straight away.

Question
ive heard of vapour lock within the carb
starter getting too hot with side pipes

or is this what usally happens , all you veteran BB owners any guidance would be good

cheers Keith (cold England)

Keith------

This condition plagues many Chevrolet cars of the period and, especially, those with big blocks. It is caused by heat-induced resistance in the purple wire from the ignition switch to the "S" terminal on the starter solenoid. The only effective and permanent solution I have ever found for it is the installation of a remote ("slave") solenoid. Kits are available in the aftermarket for this purpose.

[Gene M.]

Re: C2. Engine Big block. 427/390. 1966.

Keith------

This condition plagues many Chevrolet cars of the period and, especially, those with big blocks. It is caused by heat-induced resistance in the purple wire from the ignition switch to the "S" terminal on the starter solenoid. The only effective and permanent solution I have ever found for it is the installation of a remote ("slave") solenoid. Kits are available in the aftermarket for this purpose.

Joe,
Changing the "S" purple wire to say a 10 gauge wire with high heat resistant jacket added should do the same. Assuming the resistance is due to heat. At least worth a try. The configuration would be as the General made it if you can avoid the added solenoid.

[Keith W.]

Re: C2. Engine Big block. 427/390. 1966.

Cheers guys checked the battery and connections there all good checked the Amps at charging that's fine as well and also checked the battery over a few days period and there's no drop. Will check out the wire gauge of the wire , just one thing I have a battery saver with the small wheel on top this is on the neutral terminal- would that have an effect ? Or make a differance cheers Keith

[Richard M.]

Re: C2. Engine Big block. 427/390. 1966.

Keith------

This condition plagues many Chevrolet cars of the period and, especially, those with big blocks. It is caused by heat-induced resistance in the purple wire from the ignition switch to the "S" terminal on the starter solenoid. The only effective and permanent solution I have ever found for it is the installation of a remote ("slave") solenoid. Kits are available in the aftermarket for this purpose.

Joe, The aftermarket kit you mentioned? Is that simply a high current 4 terminal relay, or actually a large external solenoid like what the old Fords used? Any links and/or photos of that part?


Keith, Could you describe in better detail the following......

"...kind of just turns over"

Is this meaning the starter just cranks slower than when cold? Groaning?


"...after about 15 seconds splatters into life"So it starts? Does it crank normally for all of those 15 seconds?

"...it then ticks over fine."What is different between this statement and the previous statement?
Did you shut down and immediately restart, and had no issues?

--

It's possible ???

...your choke is sticking on hot restart. (easy check looking at the choke butterfly)

...your starter is heat soaked and solenoid purple wire is high resistance as mentioned. (Check voltage with a accurate meter when cranking and compare to a cold cranking exercise)

...your main battery feed from the Red #12 Gauge wire in your bulkhead connector is high resistance.(corrosion - do a visual)

...your starter or solenoid is defective/intermittent

---
Rich

[Dave H.]

Re: C2. Engine Big block. 427/390. 1966.

...I have a battery saver with the small wheel on top this is on the neutral terminal...

Keith, I assume this is a current cut-off switch that many people use in here the USA to prevent their seldomly driven cars from draining the battery. Is this what you are talking about?

If so, that could be part of your problem. I have heard that the current flow capacity of these knob style shut offs is not the same as a direct battery hookup (cable to battery terminal). You can do a direct hookup (eliminate the shut-off switch) and see if your condition improves.

Some people have a "knife style" shut off switch, which I hear has better current flow capability. Others can weigh in on this. I have the round knob shut-off and it works fine, but I am running a low compression 1982, not a 66 427.

[Richard M.]

Re: C2. Engine Big block. 427/390. 1966.

Keith, I assume this is a current cut-off switch that many people use in here the USA to prevent their seldomly driven cars from draining the battery. Is this what you are talking about?

If so, that could be part of your problem. I have heard that the current flow capacity of these knob style shut offs is not the same as a direct battery hookup (cable to battery terminal). You can do a direct hookup (eliminate the shut-off switch) and see if your condition improves.

Some people have a "knife style" shut off switch, which I hear has better current flow capability. Others can weigh in on this. I have the round knob shut-off and it works fine, but I am running a low compression 1982, not a 66 427.

Yes Dave caught that, I missed it. I see you said "neutral" terminal. That didn't register right away. I guessed maybe the UK and just saw you're in England. That's the Green knob type on the battery Ground. I used to work for Marconi test Equipment division based in St Albans years ago and learned the "neutral=ground" terminology.

I agree with Dave, take the Cutoff switch out of the circuit and retry your symptoms. I have had the Knife-Switch type on my '59 for over 25 years and it never let me down.

I just bought another as a spare. Wirthco switches are high quality products. This is what it looks like....
41k6hNEy7nL.jpg

http://www.wirthco.com/battery-disconnect-battery-switches-knife-blade-switches-c-7_132_9-l-en.html

[Joe R.]

Re: C2. Engine Big block. 427/390. 1966.

Keith,

In England and not going to do many NCRS events huh???

My suggestion would be to go on www.Jegs.com and order you a new gear reduction starter with solenoid included. Install that and your problems will be gone gone gone!

The new starter will not be seen unless someone crawls under you car and you will be happy happy happy!

JR

[Keith W.]

Re: C2. Engine Big block. 427/390. 1966.

[QUOTE=Richard Mozzetta (13499);762331]Joe, The aftermarket kit you mentioned? Is that simply a high current 4 terminal relay, or actually a large external solenoid like what the old Fords used? Any links and/or photos of that part?


Keith, Could you describe in better detail the following......

"...kind of just turns over"

Is this meaning the starter just cranks slower than when cold? Groaning?
When the engine is hot, And I switch the engine off for say 30 seconds, when I go to start her up she cranks over as if the battery is drained, it's on it's last legs


"...after about 15 seconds splatters into life"So it starts? Does it crank normally for all of those 15 seconds?
Yes it starts but cranks a lot slower as if there's no power going to the starter

"...it then ticks over fine."What is different between this statement and the previous statement?
Did you shut down and immediately restart, and had no issues?

when the Vette does re starts its fine ticks over well, ready to go

If I switch the car off then switch back on almost straightaway it starts no problem at all, - as we know with a BB if am out and want fuel, I don't want to be sat in a garage waiting for it to cool down.
--

It's possible ???

...your choke is sticking on hot restart. (easy check looking at the choke butterfly) - I will check this

...your starter is heat soaked and solenoid purple wire is high resistance as mentioned. (Check voltage with a accurate meter when cranking and compare to a cold cranking exercise)

...your main battery feed from the Red #12 Gauge wire in your bulkhead connector is high resistance.(corrosion - do a visual)

...your starter or solenoid is defective/intermittent

I also saw the-comments about the battery saver which is an easy check - cheers guys

[Keith W.]

Re: C2. Engine Big block. 427/390. 1966.

Keith,

In England and not going to do many NCRS events huh???

My suggestion would be to go on www.Jegs.com and order you a new gear reduction starter with solenoid included. Install that and your problems will be gone gone gone!

The new starter will not be seen unless someone crawls under you car and you will be happy happy happy!

JR

thanks JR - will try some of the easy fix's first and go from there

took the 65 to the lock up
brought the 63 back for winter with the 66
Also a Lambretta Italian GP 1969 and my wife's vega also Lambretta

[Joe L.]

Re: C2. Engine Big block. 427/390. 1966.

Joe, The aftermarket kit you mentioned? Is that simply a high current 4 terminal relay, or actually a large external solenoid like what the old Fords used? Any links and/or photos of that part?


Keith, Could you describe in better detail the following......

"...kind of just turns over"

Is this meaning the starter just cranks slower than when cold? Groaning?


"...after about 15 seconds splatters into life"So it starts? Does it crank normally for all of those 15 seconds?

"...it then ticks over fine."What is different between this statement and the previous statement?
Did you shut down and immediately restart, and had no issues?

--

It's possible ???

...your choke is sticking on hot restart. (easy check looking at the choke butterfly)

...your starter is heat soaked and solenoid purple wire is high resistance as mentioned. (Check voltage with a accurate meter when cranking and compare to a cold cranking exercise)

...your main battery feed from the Red #12 Gauge wire in your bulkhead connector is high resistance.(corrosion - do a visual)

...your starter or solenoid is defective/intermittent

---
Rich

Rich------


It's a solenoid like those that Fords used. You can buy a kit which includes the solenoid, wires, and other parts you need. Or, you can get just the solenoid and make up your own kit. GM used to sell such a kit but I don't know if they do anymore. They do sell just the solenoid that can be used, though. In fact, GM recommended the installation of this kit on motor home chassis with big block engines to cure just the problem I described. However, while GM never figured it out, the problem was, by no means, limited to motor home chassis with big blocks. Many, many years ago (like in the 40's) some Chevrolets had both an on-starter solenoid AND a remote solenoid. The remote solenoid was later eliminated most likely as a cost savings measure, never to return.

As I've mentioned before, if the problem was not due to heat-induced high resistance in the wire to the "S" terminal, then the remote solenoid would accomplish nothing. I suffered with this miserable problem for years in my 1969. I tried everything to fix it---several new on-starter solenoids, several rebuilt starters, a NEW starter, new ignition switch, starter heat shield, etc., etc. NOTHING absolutely cured the problem. Then an automotive electrical expert I have great faith in told me about the remote solenoid. I would have dismissed the idea if I didn't have such great faith in this guy. So, I installed the remote solenoid. It absolutely and completely solved my problem. Even hot restarts in the summer in Death Valley (REALLY) were no problem. I NEVER experienced the hot restart problem again. NEVER.

[Joe L.]

Re: C2. Engine Big block. 427/390. 1966.

Here's a link to excellent instructions for the remote starter solenoid installation. There are, however, alternate wiring configurations that work just as well:

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/prf-30203instruction.pdf

[Joe L.]

Re: C2. Engine Big block. 427/390. 1966.

...and here's a kit from Jegs:


http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan...10301/10002/-1

[Greg W.]

Re: C2. Engine Big block. 427/390. 1966.

Keith, I have the same 66 427 390 and had the same hot start problem. But I needed to get the carb rebuilt and , the guy that did it was awareof my problem and lowered the primary float level a bit and it does not matter how hot, how long it sits starts first crank. He told me that the gas now with ethanol over here increaces in volume when hot and was flooding mine. May not help you but sure did me.