C1 3rd Bearing Removal - or not.

[Eric E.]

Got all the parts together to make the bearing remover that uses an inverted 3" electrical box over the bearing then stacking washers, pipe, coupler and 3/4" bolt and nuts.... etc that was originally posted by Rich Mozzetta. Got everything in place and tighten up the bolt. The more I tightened the nut the electrical box started to cave in a bit. That was to be expected since the one copied did the same thing. Then the box flaired over the edge of the 3rd arm casting and that finished the attempt. The bearing didn't move. (Yes, the retaining ring is out).

My next thought is to exchange the electrical box for some 2 1/2" I.D. steel tube and try again.

i have soaked the bearing in anti-seize lubricant. Other than that, any other suggestions?

thanks, Eric

[Richard M.]

Re: C1 3rd Bearing Removal - or not.

Eric that one must be very well seized. Yes you may need a stronger base that will withstand the pull strength.

I used a heavy washer to help support the box but it still bent quite a bit. I've used it several times with success, but I may need a better base in the future myself. I recall it was late one night and I had most items in my shop and quickly fabricated everything. I'm typically impatient and try to do with what I have near me. My old post said I got some pieces at Home Depot.

One thing I might suggest to help free up the seized bearing housing from the 3rd arm housing is the CRC Freeze Off product. Freezing the bearing should help shrink it enough to help free it up. Gary Chestnut gets the Kudos for this product in a Restorer article some time ago.

I've had continued success with that product. You will have to spray a large amount on the bearing outer edge. They recommend about a 20 second application. You may need to double or triple that.

Word of caution, do it outside as the fumes from the penetrant and chemicals are strong. Wear safety glasses and gloves. Once you shoot it take it back in quickly into the bench vice and try it again.

Rich

ps For the curious minds, see this link for my method and parts list.....

https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthre...880#post482880

[Eric E.]

Re: C1 3rd Bearing Removal - or not.

Thanks Rich,
I will see if our local parts store has it in stock. Also, I think I would have to work quickly to spray, place in vise and assemble the tool before the effect wears off.

i also might try to reinforce the sides of the box so they don't spread. Looks like time to experiment! Eric

[Richard M.]

Re: C1 3rd Bearing Removal - or not.

Eric, One other thing I forgot to mention which helps when I pull those. When the puller is tensioned, try smacking the side of the arm housing with a medium hammer around it's perimeter. It made pop and release. Not too hard, just keep smacking it. Just like when removing a ball joint or tie rod end using a puller by smacking the side of the knuckle or arms.

Don't forget the safety glasses......

Rich

[Dan D.]

Re: C1 3rd Bearing Removal - or not.

You could also put the whole assembly in a plastic bag and set it in your freezer for an overnight soak.

However, I would not let her know you did this. If she finds out I dissolve all knowledge and wish you good luck with your pending divorce.

-Dan-

[Eric E.]

Re: C1 3rd Bearing Removal - or not.

I appreciate the suggestions guys. Especially the concern over my marriage. Actually, I read it to my wife and all is good but she insisted on using the bag ;-).

I picked up a can of Freeze-Off today and before I give it another try I want to come up with a better collar to go over the bearing. I want to make sure the force is straight and even. With that and all the holiday activities it might be a little while before I get a chance to take another wack at it.

I will keep you posted if and when I gain any ground. thanks again! Eric

[Richard M.]

Re: C1 3rd Bearing Removal - or not.

Eric,

Joe Calgano's main " receiver" piece was 3" diameter x 1 1/4" high pipe with a plate welded to it. You could get that fabricated......

SL4.jpg

.....but I've done several with my simple pieces. With the aid of cold on the bearing and heat on the housing I'm betting yours will free up. I would heat the outer housing a bit with a propane torch. Just to get it somewhat warm. Then use the Freeze-Off liberally on the outer bearing surface perimeter then after the puller is tensioned give the housing some repeated hits with the hammer and I'd wager it would start to come loose.

Rich

[Eric E.]

Re: C1 3rd Bearing Removal - or not.

Success! I decided to modify the box by bending in the sides right below the side knockout plugs. This gave it a solid contact on all four sides. Then I used the Freeze-Out and tapped the housing. At first I didn't see any results so then I took out a knock out plug and sprayed in twice as much as the first time while the bearing was under the pull of the bearing puller. As I hit the housing with the hammer I could hear a little crackling sound and then I started working the wrenches again and it started to come out.

i did hit a point where it stopped a third of the way out and it took me a few minutes to realize the washer between the pipe and the box had collapsed enough that it had bottomed out against the stud shoulder. Once I removed the washer the bearing came out.

Thanks for the encouragement to try the box method again.

The bearing that came out was a "New Departure 5200" sealed bearing #5506. So it looks like this had been serviced once before.

[Richard M.]

Re: C1 3rd Bearing Removal - or not.

Eric, Glad you got it with tools at hand. I had a feeling if you tried my method it'd work. It's a bit tedious but nothing like success.

The Freeze-Off is the biggest hep with seized items like this.

Rich

[Eric E.]

Re: C1 3rd Bearing Removal - or not.

Rich, it was really stuck to have the metal box bend in so much that it pulled onto the shoulder. The Freeze-Off made the difference.

The sealed bearing I removed must have been changed out in the 60s. The replacement that I have from a catalog is a China product, I might shop around and see if there is a US bearing still being made. I don't want to get into this very often.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a replacement bearing?

thanks!