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63 red lacquer

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  • F H.
    Expired
    • March 1, 1982
    • 26

    63 red lacquer

    I would like to polish the car. Overtime some dulling and minor scuffs/scratches Have occurred. Would appreciate some thoughts on a good product to use.Also Power buffer or hand etc. thanks
  • Dan A.
    Very Frequent User
    • February 1, 2004
    • 212

    #2
    Re: 63 red lacquer

    Someone recommended Adam's Brilliant Glaze in a discussion a few years ago on this topic. I tried it and liked the results, applied by hand, on an original paint 72 I formerly owned.

    Comment

    • Edward J.
      Extremely Frequent Poster
      • September 15, 2008
      • 6941

      #3
      Re: 63 red lacquer

      I would use a fine polish by hand to remove scratches, and coat of wax after you feel you have the car looking the way you like.
      New England chapter member, 63 Convert. 327/340- Chapter/Regional/national Top Flight, 72 coupe- chapter and regional Top Flight.

      Comment

      • Frank D.
        Expired
        • December 27, 2007
        • 2703

        #4
        Re: 63 red lacquer

        I use MacGuier's Ultra Glaze and a Porter-Cable 7424XP buffer on my Concept single-stage Riverside Red split window. This buffer is designed for the hobbyist and its nearly impossible to get in trouble with it.

        However, on original lacquer paint I would prob opt for doing it by hand just to be safe...
        Last edited by Frank D.; November 10, 2015, 07:03 AM.

        Comment

        • Harry S.
          Extremely Frequent Poster
          • July 31, 2002
          • 5295

          #5
          Re: 63 red lacquer

          Originally posted by F M Hrubetz (5451)
          I would like to polish the car. Overtime some dulling and minor scuffs/scratches Have occurred. Would appreciate some thoughts on a good product to use.Also Power buffer or hand etc. thanks
          I'd start with a clay-bar. You wash the car then spray a liquid that comes with the clay-bar then lightly rub the clay-var over a small area. When any resistance stops that area is done. You have removed anything that has embedded itself in the paint and the old wax. When done pick one of the waxes in the threaad and wax the car. You will be amazed.


          Comment

          • Michael J.
            Extremely Frequent Poster
            • January 27, 2009
            • 7119

            #6
            Re: 63 red lacquer

            Originally posted by Harry Sadlock (38513)
            I'd start with a clay-bar. You wash the car then spray a liquid that comes with the clay-bar then lightly rub the clay-var over a small area. When any resistance stops that area is done. You have removed anything that has embedded itself in the paint and the old wax. When done pick one of the waxes in the threaad and wax the car. You will be amazed.
            +1, the clay bar is essential to getting a single stage, non-clear coat (and even some clear coat) paint ready for wax.
            Big Tanks In the High Mountains of New Mexico

            Comment

            • Jim D.
              Extremely Frequent Poster
              • June 30, 1985
              • 2884

              #7
              Re: 63 red lacquer

              Originally posted by Michael Johnson (49879)
              +1, the clay bar is essential to getting a single stage, non-clear coat (and even some clear coat) paint ready for wax.
              A clay bar should be the very first step in any waxing or polishing process regardless of the type of paint.

              Comment

              • Harry S.
                Extremely Frequent Poster
                • July 31, 2002
                • 5295

                #8
                Re: 63 red lacquer

                Originally posted by Jim Durham (8797)
                A clay bar should be the very first step in any waxing or polishing process regardless of the type of paint.
                I agree, when I acquired my 63 it had 35 year old silver blue lacquer paint. It had been sitting for 25 years. The paint felt like sandpaper. After using a clay-bar it was smooth as silk. Lots of wax next. I will take condition points on scratches and nicks but I don't care.


                Comment

                • Michael J.
                  Extremely Frequent Poster
                  • January 27, 2009
                  • 7119

                  #9
                  Re: 63 red lacquer

                  I really have had no reason to use a clay bar on my newer BC/CC paint jobs, with 3-4 coats of CC, there is just not any embedded dirt/grit to deal with, very smooth to the touch and a even a micro-fiber towel glides over it.
                  Big Tanks In the High Mountains of New Mexico

                  Comment

                  • Alan D.
                    Extremely Frequent Poster
                    • January 1, 2005
                    • 2038

                    #10
                    Re: 63 red lacquer

                    Clay Bar first, then what are doing with car?
                    You can go through many steps where each gets the real problem solved, ie removal of the scratches, lots of work!

                    However if you plan to have car judged that's not the way to go! It looks great, but the point reduction is high.
                    If it's primarily used for NCRS events just finish off with a good wax, dust before use (Calf duster) and use some quick detailed spray with a micro cloth.

                    Comment

                    • Jim D.
                      Extremely Frequent Poster
                      • June 30, 1985
                      • 2884

                      #11
                      Re: 63 red lacquer

                      Originally posted by Alan Drake (43261)
                      Clay Bar first, then what are doing with car?
                      You can go through many steps where each gets the real problem solved, ie removal of the scratches, lots of work!

                      However if you plan to have car judged that's not the way to go! It looks great, but the point reduction is high.
                      If it's primarily used for NCRS events just finish off with a good wax, dust before use (Calf duster) and use some quick detailed spray with a micro cloth.
                      You don't understand what a clay bar is for. All it does is remove dirt/grit/etc. from the paint that washing doesn't. It doesn't change the look of the finish at all. If you apply wax without using a clay bar first, all you're doing is causing more fine scratches and sealing in the garbage that's stuck in your paint. If you've ever used one, you'd NEVER wax a car without claying it first.

                      Comment

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