C3 Headlight Actuators
I have been working on my 69 Corvette headlight actuators and have accumulated the following information by personal experience and searching web sites and forums. There seems to be a lot of confusion about this particular subject so here is what I have learned. If any of this information is incorrect please feel free to let me know. You will not hurt my feelings.
It is my understanding that the two sections of the actuator are separated by an air tight diaphragm and vacuum should not pass through or around this actuator. If it does the actuator is bad and must be replaced unless there is someone who can repair it. One end of the actuator has a rod protruding from it that must be sealed by a rubber seal. If this seal is leaking the actuator will not function as originally intended so this seal must be good.
To test the actuator without putting it into your car you can simply apply vacuum with a vacuum pump to each port of the actuator and it should hold vacuum at each port. You do not have to block off the opposite port because vacuum is not suppose to pass through the diaphragm. If vacuum holds at each port everything is 100% and the actuator is good. Before applying vacuum you should push the rod and diaphragm toward the port you are testing. This will limit the amount of pumping you will have to do to get the vacuum to hold.
The outer rubber seal is simply a dust cover and has nothing to do with the vacuum seal.
It is true that the system may work even with small vacuum leaks, but for maximum efficiency all ports need to hold vacuum for a reasonable period of time. It is also very important that all vacuum lines fit very tightly. There are so many connections where vacuum can leak and a few leaks can make a big difference. There any many more on the cars with the vacuum controlled wiper door. Someone even suggested using clamps or plastic tie clamps if the connection seems to be loose. Hope this helps someone. I have many hours invested in trying to get my system to work and I am not done yet.
It is my understanding that the two sections of the actuator are separated by an air tight diaphragm and vacuum should not pass through or around this actuator. If it does the actuator is bad and must be replaced unless there is someone who can repair it. One end of the actuator has a rod protruding from it that must be sealed by a rubber seal. If this seal is leaking the actuator will not function as originally intended so this seal must be good.
To test the actuator without putting it into your car you can simply apply vacuum with a vacuum pump to each port of the actuator and it should hold vacuum at each port. You do not have to block off the opposite port because vacuum is not suppose to pass through the diaphragm. If vacuum holds at each port everything is 100% and the actuator is good. Before applying vacuum you should push the rod and diaphragm toward the port you are testing. This will limit the amount of pumping you will have to do to get the vacuum to hold.
The outer rubber seal is simply a dust cover and has nothing to do with the vacuum seal.
It is true that the system may work even with small vacuum leaks, but for maximum efficiency all ports need to hold vacuum for a reasonable period of time. It is also very important that all vacuum lines fit very tightly. There are so many connections where vacuum can leak and a few leaks can make a big difference. There any many more on the cars with the vacuum controlled wiper door. Someone even suggested using clamps or plastic tie clamps if the connection seems to be loose. Hope this helps someone. I have many hours invested in trying to get my system to work and I am not done yet.
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