C2 clutch and throw out bearing

[William G.]

Re: C2 clutch and throw out bearing

Joe,

Thanks for the honest opinion. By chance, do you know if there is a measurement point on the flywheel, to micrometer the thickness and would you know what , or where I could find out that information?
I don't mind replacing the pressure plate, as I think the person who rebuilt it may have over preloaded the spring. The pressure plate was not put into the car until this summer when I was rebuilding the original 327 engine. Best to my recollection, the pressure plate was worked on in the early 1980's anyways. I have seen those diaphragms crack after being under pressure for so long. Probably should have purchased a new one to start.

Bill

[Joe L.]

Re: C2 clutch and throw out bearing

Joe,

Thanks for the honest opinion. By chance, do you know if there is a measurement point on the flywheel, to micrometer the thickness and would you know what , or where I could find out that information?
I don't mind replacing the pressure plate, as I think the person who rebuilt it may have over preloaded the spring. The pressure plate was not put into the car until this summer when I was rebuilding the original 327 engine. Best to my recollection, the pressure plate was worked on in the early 1980's anyways. I have seen those diaphragms crack after being under pressure for so long. Probably should have purchased a new one to start.

Bill

Bill-------


I do not know of a means to measure the thickness of the flywheel or pressure plate to compare it against the as-new dimension. There probably is a way to do this, but I'm just not aware of it.

[William G.]

Re: C2 clutch and throw out bearing

Joe,

You mentioned telling people to replace flywheels and pressure plates that have been milled. Do you recommend a particular source for those parts?

Bill

[Joe L.]

Re: C2 clutch and throw out bearing

Joe,

You mentioned telling people to replace flywheels and pressure plates that have been milled. Do you recommend a particular source for those parts?

Bill

Bill-------


Most of the GM parts are long-since discontinued. I recommend using LUK or Sachs clutches. These are OEM-equivalent parts.

[William G.]

Re: C2 clutch and throw out bearing

Joe,

Sorry to trouble you again, but you seem pretty knowledgeable about this. In talking with counter people today, and on line, they seem confused about which flywheel and disc size is correct for the 67 350 HP. I see where there are two different ring gears, the 153, which is probably correct, and the 168, which I would assume is for the low horsepower 427's. Also the 10.4" disc and an 11" disc. What the heck is correct for my car?

[Joe L.]

Re: C2 clutch and throw out bearing

Joe,

Sorry to trouble you again, but you seem pretty knowledgeable about this. In talking with counter people today, and on line, they seem confused about which flywheel and disc size is correct for the 67 350 HP. I see where there are two different ring gears, the 153, which is probably correct, and the 168, which I would assume is for the low horsepower 427's. Also the 10.4" disc and an 11" disc. What the heck is correct for my car?

William------


ALL 1963-68 Corvette small blocks used a 12-3/4", 153 tooth flywheel. No exceptions. They also used a 10.4" friction disc. No exceptions.

14", 168 tooth flywheels were used for all 1966-74 big blocks except L-88/ZL-1. 14" flywheels were also used for all 1969-81 Corvette small blocks except ZR-1.

[William G.]

Re: C2 clutch and throw out bearing

Joe,

Thanks,

You have been very helpful, along with others who have posted replies. It looks like I will replace the pressure plate and hopefully, after measuring the thickness of the flywheel, determine the best course of action to take. I sure don't want to have to remove the engine and tranny again after this repair is done!
Earlier today I stopped by a local engine machine shop. The guy who runs it suggested I use an adjustable ball stud, to move the clutch fork forward. Sure would be a less costly repair, but trying to find out what the measurement is between the pressure plate fingers and the top of the ball may not be possible. He said I would need that to set the correct height of the ball. I'm sure on some race cars and street rods, with two piece bell housings, this is an easily adjustable fix, but not in our case. You still have to split all three pieces just to adjust the stud. Even though it is much more expensive to replace the major parts, once the correct new ones are in place, the clutch pedal rod should be easy to adjust.

Thanks again,

Bill