I cannot get the TorboFire valve cover decal to stick. Engine was repainted last year. I have installed several of the decals on the top of the valve cover and they all have come loose. The 300 Hp decal on the side of the valve cover have not been an issue. I have tried cleaning with gas, rubbing alcohol, and 409. Any ideas?
Valve cover decals - won't stick
Collapse
X
-
Re: Valve cover decals - won't stick
I cannot get the TorboFire valve cover decal to stick. Engine was repainted last year. I have installed several of the decals on the top of the valve cover and they all have come loose. The 300 Hp decal on the side of the valve cover have not been an issue. I have tried cleaning with gas, rubbing alcohol, and 409. Any ideas?
Robert------
The "metalized" valve cover labels used on the center of 1963-66 250/300 HP engines used a pressure sensitive adhesive (PSA). I have noted that the PSA used on many reproduction labels is FAR INFERIOR to whatever GM originally used. Besides the problem you're having, even if you get them to adhere, engine compartment heat will rather quickly cause them to "lift". The same thing is commonly true for reproduction air cleaner labels. I really wish the reproduction sources would get the adhesive right. The right stuff has got to be still available.
Anyway, the only way I've found to get some of these labels to "stick" is to apply another adhesive. This is a poor solution, at best, but it's the only thing I've found.In Appreciation of John Hinckley- Top
Comment
-
Re: Valve cover decals - won't stick
Joe, Correct me if I am wrong but I don't think so. Metal 63-66 cars used the metalized labels. 66 and maybe other years of corvettes used the soak in water, peel off back and stick them to the valve cover.- Top
Comment
-
Re: Valve cover decals - won't stick
Yes, the decalomania-type labels were used for 1963-E66 Corvettes with all small blocks. These were mounted on the side of the valve covers and denoted the horsepower rating of the engine. Robert mentioned that he had no problem with these decals. Decalomania-type labels are the type soaked in water and transferred by sliding off the backing.
The metalized labels were used on the top of 1963-66 Corvette 250 and 300 hp small blocks. These labels were affixed with pressure-sensitive adhesive of the "peel-and-stick" type. Later 1966 omitted the decalomania side labels and replaced them with a single label on the top of the valve cover which also included the engine HP. As far as I know, these labels were of the PSA-affixed metalized type.
---In Appreciation of John Hinckley- Top
Comment
-
Re: Valve cover decals - won't stick
I had the same problem originally but when I had my engine rebuilt a metal backed decal was installed and it seems to be holding up very well. One of the vendors makes the valve cover decal with some type of metal backing on it.- Top
Comment
-
Re: Valve cover decals - won't stick
My car is serial number 328 - 2-3 day of production. I have been using the molar declas with the pressure sensitive adhesive. Paragron does sell the metal decals - I guess I should try them.
Does anyone sell the original water based decals?- Top
Comment
-
Re: Valve cover decals - won't stick
Also, try prepping the engine surface with wax and tar remover, not gasoline (gas softens the paint, plus it's just not a safe practice to use it as a de-greaser or cleaner) or household cleaners (they may leave a residue).Mark Edmondson
Dallas, Texas
Texas Chapter
1970 Coupe, Donnybrooke Green, Light Saddle LS5 M20 A31 C60 G81 N37 N40 UA6 U79
1993 Coupe, 40th Anniversary, 6-speed, PEG 1, FX3, CD, Bronze Top- Top
Comment
-
Re: Valve cover decals - won't stick
HI:
As Joe indicated you might need to use a secondary adhesive to apply the sticker --- two possible solutions are the glue sticks and clear school glue sold at stationery stores --- the only issue you may have is their reaction to a high heat environment.
One other solution (from the model car and model railroad hobbies) are the following two products:
The first is solvaset -- it is a decal softener used in modeling -- it softens the decal carrier material and allows it to "snuggle" down into very small surface variations... using it prevents "silvering" or the tendency for a decal to trap a bit of air between the carrier and the mounting surface --- causing a silver background vs. clear. Solvaset actually dissolves the carrier film so you have to work very quickly and carefully. A clean and slick surface is best.
The second is a mild adhesive used with bare-metal-foil (model cars etc)... it dries clear and firm and it "MIGHT WORK" as a secondary adhesive --- however, my first choice would be a glue stick or other clear drying adhesive.
Just some alternative ideas ---- but as I mentioned --- heat may be an issue with these products --- I have used them on my real cars but not around the engine bay ---
Regards
Bill
Screen Shot 2015-09-24 at 1.45.37 PM.jpg- Top
Comment
Comment